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SIX WEEKS ON 
I HORSEBACK 

Yellowstone 
Park 




SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 
THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK THROUGH 

YELLOWSTONE 
PARK 



HY 

L. LOUISE ELLIOTT 



July 1913 

TH K RAPID CITY JOURNAL 

Rapid City, S. D. 






Copyright, iuh, by 
The Rapid City Journai 



/* 






A351344 



PRE FACE 



It was mi/ intention, when my husband <tn<l I joined the 
Itocky Mountain Camping Party for a six-week trip to and 
through the Yellowstone Park, to share the pleasure of that 
trip with in// parents by writing every night a full account 
of what J had seen that day. / found, however, that I was 
usually too tired or too cold In write a long letter after 
we arrived at our camp, so I merely kept a diary. A large 
part of m // diary was written while we were on the road and 
is scarcely legible. 

I therefore decided to re rise these litters. 

In order to mould the tourists for my imaginary part// I 
combined, at my own pleasure, the individual traits and 
characteristics of my camp companions as well as some of my 
own. The little lore affair is fiction, but the cam/i episodes 
and jejkes, the descriptions of weather and scenery, and the 
statistics are copied from my diary and are affectionately 
inscribed to my loving parents. L. L. E. 



List of Illustrations 



PAGE 
"WE RODE OUT TO THE SINKS. A NATURAL CURIOSITY" 14 

'•JUST AT THE OUTLET THE WATER IS VERT CALM AND LOOKS 

LIKE AN ORDINARY POND' 15 

A SCORE OR MORE OF INDIANS IN GORGEOUS WAR BONNETS"... IS 

VTEWIN< '. THE STREET PARADE 19 

THE INDIAN MAID IS THE LATE CHIEF WASHAKIE'S GRAND- 
DAUGHTER 21 

ALE READY TO LEAVE BULL LAKE CAMP" 13 

'HERE ON TOP OF CROW HEART BUTTE CHIEF WASHAKIE CUT 

OUT HIS ENEMY'S HEART AND ATE IT" 46 

A srSPENDED PASSENGER FERRY 4s 

"COME AND GET IT" 52 

DUBOIS, WYOMING .,:, 

"I DIDN'T ENJOY THAT DOUBLEMOUNT FORD" til 

"CHIEF WASHAKIE WITH HIS TRIBESMEN MADE A PASS AROUND 

THE WALL" OS 

GIBRALTAR AT BROOKS LA K E 8<J 

"HERE WE ATE THE DELICIOUS TROUT COOKED IN THE DUTCPI 

OVEN" 90 

LOOKING ACROSS BROOK'S LAKE 91 

"NEAR THE SUMMIT WE PICKED FORGET-ME-NOTS WHICH 

GREW NEAR A POCKET OF SNOW" 92 

AYE SAW OUR FIRST BANK OF ELK IN THE BLACK ROCK 

VALLEY" 95 

THE GOVERNMENT IRRIGATION DAM AT JACKSON LAKE 97 

MOORE FALLS ARE THE FIRST ATTRACTION WHEN ONE GOES 

IN AT THE SOUTHERN ENTRANCE 104 

"WE VISITED THE BOYS AT THE THUMB SOLDIER STATION" 107 

THE NATURAL BRIDGE IS LOCATED BETWEEN THE THUMB AND 

THE LAKE HOTEL 109 

"THE WIND FROM YELLOWSTONE LAKE WAS SO COLD THAT WE 

DECIDED TO MOVE OUR CAMP" 112 

THE CONCRETE BRIDGE WHICH SPANS THE RAPIDS OF THE 

YELLOWSTONE IN THE GRAND CANYON US 

THE UPPER FALLS IN GRAND CANY'ON 120 

"I SAT OUT ON ONE OF THE ROCK NEEDLES AND FEASTED MY 

EYES ON THE GREAT FALLS" 121 

THE GREAT FALLS IN GRAND CANYON 122 

■TANYON HOTEL IS THE NEWEST AND LARGEST HOTEL IN THE 

PARK" 124 

"THE BIG GRIZZLIES COME TO LICK THE CANS" 1SS 



"WE ALL LINED UP ON MT. WASHBLRN TO HAVE OUR PICTURES 

TAKEN ON AN AUGUST SNOWBANK" 131 

ON THE SUMMIT OF MT. WASHBURN 132 

"WE ARE CAMPED ON A DELIGHTFUL SPOT AT THE EDGE OF A 

PINE FOREST" 133 

THE NEEDLES ABOVE TOWER FALLS 137 

"THE GUARD AT THE IMPOSING ARCH DEDICATED BY COL. 

ROOSEVELT WOULD NOT LET US PASS THROUGH ' 142 

"LIBERTY CAP STANDS LIKE A SENTINEL GUARDING THE 

TERRACES ABOVE AND THE FORT BEYOND" 147 

"HE TOOK ME TO CUPID'S CAVE. A SPRING IN THE RECESS OF 

A TERRACE" 14S 

•THE GOLDEN GATE" 150 

THE GOLDEN GATE AT 10:00 A. M 151 

FIREHOLE CASCADES 15S 

THE SHERIDAN SOLDIERS CAMPED NOT FAR FROM FOUNTAIN 

HOTEL 159 

"GIBBON FALLS TUMBLE IN FOAMING SHEETS OVER A SERIES 

' >F i 'A SCALES" 100 

'THE BISCUIT-LIKE KNOBS IN BISCUIT BASIN ARE DIFFERENT 

FROM ANY OTHER FORMATION I HAVE SEEN" 102 

I )RAWING OF GEYSER 165 

"OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER PLAYS AT A HEIGHT OF ONE HUNDRED 

TWENTY-FIVE FEET" 169 

TAKEN FROM ROOF OF OLD FAITHFUL INN 170 

"THE OLD FAITHFUL INN IS A UNIQUE LOG STRUCTURE" 171 

THE CONE OF THE LONE STAR GEYSER HAS A CENTRAL 

OPENING AND SEVERAL SMALLER OPENINGS AT THE SIDE. . . .175 

"OUR GUNS WERE RETURNED AT THE SNAKE RIVER SOLDIER 

STATION" 1 7S 

SNAKE RIVER BELOW THE DAM AT JACKSON LAKE ISO 

THE RED PASS ROAD FOLLOWS CLOSK TO THE RIVER 1 S'l 

RED PASS— LOOKING TOWARD RIVER 1 n7 

"THE WAGON ROLLED FROM SII>E To SIDE IN THE DANGEROUS 

FORD" 188 

"HE TOOK ME TO THE QUATNT LITTLE LOG CHURCH" 193 



Six Weeks on Horseback Through Yellowstone Park 



Lander, Wyo., June 23, 1912. 
Mrs. Chas. Chester, 
Cincinnati, (). 

Mother dear: Your anxious letter was delivered this morn- 
ing, and I am grateful to you for offering me the money to pay 
the expenses of the Yellowstone Park trip, Imt you will not 
need To make The sacrifice for me. I am going To Take ThaT 
delightful six-week Trip on horseback with Professor and 
Mrs. White and iT is not going to cost me a cent except for 
luxuries. Here is how it came about: — 

Mr. Mack, the Guide of the Rocky Mountain Yel- 
lowstone Park Camp, asked Mrs. White in my pres- 
ence if she knew of a young lady who would like 
To go as camp assistant, that is, to help The cook wash 
dishes, pare vegetables and The like. I could hardly keep 
from screaming right out: "Here's your cam]) assisTant!" 
but I checked my eiiThusiasm and asked coolly: "What 
would you pay for such service?" "0," replied the Guide, 
"I couldn't pay anything; the lady would be getting her 
board and I'd have to furnish her with a pony and saddle. 
I charge the Dudes i Easterners ) Three hundred dollars for 
that trip." "Suppose the lady has her own pony and sad- 
dle, couldn't you furnish her a riding' suit at least?" "Well," 
drawled the Guide, "I might give her fifteen dollars, that 
ought to get her a skirt and a pair of boots." 

Mother, I forgot everything in my eagerness to take the 
one trip on all the earth I most desired; forgot my con- 
tracts with the Kinder's mothers: forgot that I ought first 
To get your consent and contracted right then and there for 
myself and my beautiful pony to join that camping party 



12 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

and I got my fifteen dollars in advance, too. How Mrs. 
White did laugh at my scheming after Mr. Mack left. 

The part}- is to be composed mainly of Easterners who 
learned of Mr. Mack's business through the advertisements 
he inserted in Eastern city papers. The Guide furnishes 
all necessities of camp, ponies for each tourist and board. Pro- 
fessor and Mrs. White, however, will travel in their own road 
buggy and will take an extra horse to help their ponies pull 
when the grade is steep. 

Now my aristocrat Mother, please don't let the fact that 
I go as camp assistant trouble you. The duties will be very 
trifling, just the things that are real fun when one is camp- 
ing out. Think of me merely as going with Professor and Mrs. 
White and a thoroughly competent guide on a most delight- 
ful trip to and through Yellowstone Park. 

After Mr. Mack left I hurried over to see my chum, Miss 
Arnold, the primary teacher, and I dumped my summer 
Kindergarten right into her willing arms. So that is off my 
mind, although I have promised to help her get started. I 
am only waiting now for a night letter telegram from yon, 
mother dear, giving your consent, before I purchase my camp 
clothes. 

I have been inquiring for suitable rooms for our use when 
you come to Lander in September to keep house for me. I 
find that rooms for light housekeeping are very scarce here. 
The larger and more modern homes are occupied by their 
owners, who are not willing to let rooms. The rest of the 
houses are small and for the most part quite uncomfortable 
in winter. 

This town is a queer mixture of the ancient and modern. 
It nestled under the mountain for more than thirty years, 
completely isolated from the rest of the world until the rail- 
road came in 1906. The Indian traders, flock masters, (rap- 
pers, ranchmen and merchants who lived here in the pio- 
neer days were obliged to build as small and cheaply as pos- 



Til R()i(} II YELLOWSTONE PARK 13 

sible, as you can imagine with the nearest railway station 
one hundred and twenty-rive miles away. 

It is really funny to see the Past hobnobbing with the 
Present as it does in this little town. In one certain block 
there is a primitive adobe home on the corner. The house 
is surrounded by an immaculate lawn and contains a recent- 
ly added up-to-date bath. Next to the little adobe stands a 
frame cottage ami next to that a small modern brick home, 
while on the cornel- is a log cabin. There was also in this 
same row when I came here a rag house, that is, a tent with 
partly boarded sides. 

I shall continue inquiring and 1 dare say that I will suc- 
ceed in rinding just the rooms we need. 

Our honorable School board paid me some flattering com- 
pliments on my year's work and asked how I would like to 
try eighth grade next term. Like it? Of course I shall, since 
it means a raise of ten per month to say nothing of the pret- 
ty corner room in the new High School building. 

By the way, Mother, I forgot to tell you in my last letter 
that Clyde wrote that he was planning to spend his vacation 
out West and asked how I'd like to have him come to Lan- 
der. I wrote him today of my new plans for the summer and 
just to tease him I added that I thought he would enjoy 
spending his vacation in this delightful little Mountain town 
and I offered to give him a letter of introduction to my teach- 
er chum and assured him that he would find her most com- 
panionable. 

Dinner is ready so I must close. 

Lovingly, 
Violet. 

P. S. It is now nine o'clock and I am adding this post 
script to tell you of a delightful horseback ride our bachel- 
or maid club, took immediately after dinner. 

We rode to the Sinks, a natural curiosity, situated about 
eight miles from Lander. A great sheet of water goes tum- 
bling down a rocky hill side over big boulders, forming little 



14 



SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 



foaming cascades and then enters a cave and is completely 
lost to view. 

It is claimed by some that the chasm continues under and 
through the mountain, while others say that the wall of the 
cave is porous and that the water oozes through and Thus 
forms the underground stream; however thai may be, the 
river does come to the surface again about a quarter of a 
mile from the intake and in the opposite side of the canyon. 

There is no visible opening or cave at the outlet and the 
water seems to ooze through the side of the mountain. Jus! 
at the outlet the water is very calm and looks quite like an 
ordinary pond, but a little farther on, where there is a drop 



Ig^^^^y ' 


- 


'' " > t/~" i 


■ ..;-■ 




l^^ |_ .; -^-y * ' 




Intake. The S Wvo. 



'We rode out to the Sinks, a natural 



in the grade, it becomes a wild mountain river again. It 
certainly is a \rvy interesting freak of nature, and the ride 
through the canyon is delightful. 

Tomorrow evening we are going to ride out to the oil wells. 
There are several of them only a few miles from Lander; most 



Tl/h'OLdll YELLOWSTONE PARK 



15 



of them are on lands which are leased from the Indians. One 
lake made l»y The overflow of the oil is to be burned tonight 
and I can imagine that it will be worth seeing. Vi. 




•■Just at the outlet the water is very calm and looks like an ordinary pond." 

Lander, June 27, 1912. 
Dearest Mother: Your night letter was a happy disap- 
pointment. I was so afraid that yon would be shocked at the 
thought of me, a Chester, wiping dishes for pay. It was cer- 
tainly thoughtful of Mrs. White to write to assure you that 
she would take care of me and that she would see to it that 
I am not called upon to do any unpleasant tasks. Mr. Mack 
told her today that my chief duty will be to see that the wo- 



1G SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

men's belongings are ready for packing when he is ready to 
load the wagon each morning. 

Last year one or other of the ladies of the party was al- 
ways calling for her suit case after it was loaded on to the 
wagon so that she could put in some little article which she 
had forgotten, or else she would want the bedding unrolled 
again to see if her side comb or other toilet necessity had been 
rolled in with her blanket. Of course, such delays are very 
exasperating, especially when the Guide is anxious to reach 
a certain point in a given time. So, Mother mine, it is my 
duty to see that each lady has her belongings corralled when 
the men are ready to pull the tent ropes. 1 can imagine Sis 
saying when she reads this, "Won't Vi. be in her element ? 
She'll have everybody's belongings all arranged and system- 
atized to her heart's content." To be sure I will. No lost 
or left behind article of lady's apparel shall vex our Guide 
this year. Can't you picture our camp under your fussy 
daughter's management? That old pine you see in your 
mental picture is not a Christmas tree. Look closer and you 
can see the labels "This branch reserved for Miss A's hose, 
this twig for Mrs. B's switch, this knot hole for Miss D's 
false teeth," etc. O, I'll deserve the reputation Sis always 
gives me for order and system. 

I'm just wild to be starting. We are to see some grand 
scenery between Lander and the Park and will stop at two 
of the mountain lakes to fish. That is why some of the Eas- 
terners prefer joining the Lander parties to going by rail to 
Gardiner or Cody to go with the regular Lark camp outfits 
for a short live or six day circuit. 

My pony and I have been having some jolly practice rides 
and between times I have been helping Miss Arnold organ- 
ize the kindergarten. Mrs. White has also been helping me 
get my camp wardrobe ready. Each lady may take but one 
suit case so there will not be room for many changes. We 
will travel in khaki riding skirt (divided, of course, for 
everyone rides astride out here) khaki shirt, high to]) boots. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 17 

gauntlet gloves, and Mexican straw hats. We shall carry 
Stetson hats for cooler weather. You should see how well 
1 look iu my Stetson. 

Professor insists that we carry extra heavy under-gar- 
nients in our suit eases, and woolen hose. It is perfectly ri- 
diculous even to think of such clothing while the thermometer 
registers ninety plus. We tried to compromise on long-sleeve 
gauze, but he said he spent one summer in the mountains 
while out with a geology class and he does not want us to suf- 
fer with cold as he did that summer. The days were hot, 
but the early mornings and evenings were always cold. I 
suppose we'll have to give in and do as he wants for he 
threatens to carry a couple of suits of the scratchiest flan- 
nels he can get and says he will put them on us the first 
time we complain of being cold if we do not do as he advises. 
I don't suppose we shall ever take them out of our suitcases 
while on the trip. 

We searched all through Lander's stores for tan or brown 
sweaters, but could find nothing with high collars except 
scarlet so we had to take those. I shall put my voile skirt 
and a couple of white waists into my case to wear when we 
take meals in the Park hotels. 

Lander is to have a wild west celebration on the Fourth 
and so I am to have a jolly time before we leave. I wish you 
and Sis might be here to enjoy the celebration with me. They 
tell me it will be very exciting. 

Poor foolish Clyde wrote me the frostiest letter in answer 
to my last. Says he has changed his mind about coming 
AYest and thinks now he will go to Sault St. Marie to spend 
his vacation. He added, casually, "You know Jessie Carr 
is up there this summer." I suppose he thought that would 
make me jealous. Doesn't know me yet, does he, Mamsey 
mine? If Jessie Carr can give him a good time this summer 
I most sincerely hope he will give her the opportunity. I 
certainly cannot give up my Park trip, not even for dear old 
Clvde. 



18 



SIX WEEKti ON HORSEBACK 



How fortunate you were to get such good tenants for the 
home so soon. That fifty dollars a month will help out a g< »< m 1 
deal and now Sis can go on with her vocal lessons. Her so- 
prano is certainly out of the ordinary and if she will only 
practice she will be able to do concert work after she gradu- 
ates. 

Wish I could see her stunning new traveling suit, though 
I am sure I should like your neat gray, for the purpose, 
much better. 

Since you leave so soon, I will address my next letter to 
Buffalo. God grant you both a safe and happy journey. 

Your affectionate 

Violet. 




"A score or more of Indians in gorgeous war bonnets." 

Lander, Wyoming, -Inly 5. 

How I did enjoy the Fourth celebration, Manisey mine. 
Next year you shall have opportunity to see a similar exhi- 
bition, but you will not get as much fun out of it as I did for 
you are a tender hearted little Puritan. 

The first on the program was a street parade, headed by 
the Lander band. There were the usual floats and all were 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 



19 



exceptional!) good because of the fact that a reward bad 
been offered for the best. I was disappointed wben the com- 
mittee awarded the money to a couple of pretty women who 
rode in a phaeton decorated with paper (lowers. It was 
pretty, of* course, but bad not cost nearly so much time or 
forethought as the Woodcraft float with its Goddess of Lib- 
erty, thirteen original colonies, and its real live goat. How- 
ever, if I bad the awarding to do I should have given the 
money to the taxidermist's float. It represented a forest scene 
with stuffed eagle, fawn, deer, elk, wild cat and wolf group- 
ed prettily among some pines. The driver sat upon a large 
arm chair whose arms and legs were made of elk bonis and 
whose seat and back were of skins. This taxidermist makes 




Viewing the Street Parade. 

similar chairs for Elk lodges all through the east. 

The most interesting part of the parade for me were a 
score or more of Indians, very gorgeous in war bonnets, gay 
shirts, beaded vests, and with gaudy silk handkerchiefs tied 
over their ears or around their necks. One big fellow, the 
proudest of all, reminded me of that old anthem, "and Solo- 
mon was not arrayed, was not arrayed," for this old Indian 



20 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

had not a scrap of clothing on his back except a strip of 
bright calico fastened about his waist. His skin was stained 
and polished and he looked for all the world, like a statue 
of "Lo, the poor Indian" astride a horse. 

The fat, greasy squaws followed after their proud bucks. 
They were a comical sight sitting astride their saddleless po- 
nies. They wore ill-fitting blouses of bright cotton material, 
and their skirts were so skimpy that they had to wrap their 
gay shawls about their legs to hide them from public view. 
One of the younger squaws rode on an elegantly caparisoned 
horse and was beautifully attired in some kind of ceremonial 
dress, trimmed with shells and beads and elk teeth, for this 
Indian maid is the daughter of the late Chief Washakie, a 
lady of rank among the Shoshones. 

I have been reading the history of Wyoming by Coutant 
and it is very interesting. The grand old chief Washakie 
was a very important character in the pioneer days and 
many a poor trapper's and prospector's life was saved by 
his intervention and warning. 

I am enclosing a photograph of Mary Washakie as she 
looked in the procession, but it does not do the dress or sad- 
dle blanket justice, one needs to see the colors and the weav- 
ing to appreciate their beauty. 

A long line of cowboys in soft felt hats, kerchiefs knotted 
loosely around the neck, long haired chaps and wide leather 
belts containing fierce looking revolvers, rode behind the 
squaws. Then followed forty or fifty so-called cow-girls in 
Stetson hats and tan skirts. 

When the procession reached the centre of town the sec- 
ond time the marshal drove the people back to the walks 
and suddenly, without any warning, bedlam was turned 
loose. The Indians, whooping at the top of their voices, 
raced madly down the street, chased by the cowboys, who were 
yelling and shouting and shooting their revolvers. I was 
not expecting anything of the sort and really thought the 
Indians were on the warpath. Professor White laughingly 



TIUHHau YELLOWSTONE PARK 



21 



assured me that they would not scalp me and that it was no 
warlike uprising, bul only a part of the prearranged pro- 
gram for the benefit of a moving picture show artist. 

A ball game and an Independence day oration were sched- 
uled for the same hour. Of course I considered it my duty 
to root for the Lander baseball team, while the elderly and 
more dignified folk were developing their intellects at the 
oration. 




The Indian maid is the late Chief Washakie's grand-daughter, 

Well, it was decidedly punk — the ball game, I mean, of 
course. Lander proudly claims two baseball stars, the great 
White Sox pitcher, Scott, and the left handed Lincoln pitch- 
er, Farthing ; but for home use she hadn't much to brag of 
this year. 

After lunch there was a great hurrying and scurrying to 
secure seats in carry-alls, drays and automobiles so as to be 
on hand early to get good seats in the grand stand at the 
race track. Everybody and everybody's wife and baby go 



22 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

to the races in Wyoming. If you tell Grandmother that I 
saw a minister of the Gospel stand up and shout until he 
was hoarse for his favorite horse she will think the entire 
state is on the road to perdition. 

It is needless to tell you how I enjoyed the beautiful 
horses. Really, Mother, I cannot agree with Grandmother 
that racing is cruel when I see the horses seem to enjoy it 
and how very careful their grooms are of them. I shall not 
take time to tell you of the ordinary races. 

A Chicago stock dealer ottered a purse of fifty dollars to 
the winner of a girl's free-for-all race. This was not on (he 
prearranged program and there had not been any entries 
made for it, consequently, it took some time to coax a suffi- 
cient number of girls to enter to make it interesting. At 
last eight girls were mounted, some on their own ponies, 
others on regular race horses. It was very interesting be- 
cause I knew most of the girls. One of them was thrown; 
I feared she would be. She had no business to enter for she 
knows nothing about fast riding. 

The great mob stopped yelling for their favorites only a 
moment then went right on cheering heartlessly before they 
had opportunity to see how badly the girl was hurt. For- 
tunately, she suffered no serious injury. 

My pony came in third in a race last year and the commit- 
tee tried to get me to enter him in the free-for-all pony race, 
but I did not want to run the risk of having him injured in 
any way lest I could not ride him to the Park. 

The squaw race was comical. The fat things, with their 
feet clutching the ponies' sides, and their shawls slipping 
out and exposing Their legs, jogged along serenely while 
the crowd jeered and hooted. 

The male Indians demonstrated the proverbial obstinate 
persistence of their race in the purse race. A pouch con- 
taining live dollars was lightly buried in the dust of the 
track in front of the judge's stand. The riders were told to 
get the pouch without dismounting. The successful one then 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 23 

must ride once around the track, while the other contestants 

gave chase and if they succeeded in overtaking' him they had 
the privilege of wresting the purse from him. 

It was great fun to see the hall' dozen solemn, silent Red- 
skins dive, tussle, plunge and twirl in their saddles in their 
effort to get the purse from the ground. 

They were in dead earnest, hut never seemed to get ex- 
cited or angry as their white friends would have done in a 
similar contest, and such patience! It was terribly risky, 
inn. When one of them did succeed in leaning out of the 
saddle fat- enough to get his hand on the pouch, the rest 
crowded about him so closely that it seemed as if the poor fel- 
low would surely he crushed and horribly bruised. 

One old fellow with a long black braid over each shoulder 
worked as if his entire reputation and fortune were at stake, 
but a youngster of about sixteen finally succeeded in raising 
the money from the ground and was off down the track like 
mad. It did not take that old fellow with the braids long 
to regain his equilibrium and he was off hot-shod after the 
youngster almost before I had time to take in the situa- 
tion. 

Well, sir, just before he reached the judge's stand, that old 
patient, persistent Indian caught that youngster and held 
him back until the others came, and while they worried 
the boy's pony, the old man snatched the purse and rode to 
goal with it. The spectators groaned with disappointment; 
it did seem such a pity that the boy should lose the prize 
after working so hard for it, but he came out richer in the 
end, for one of the men in the grand stand passed his hat 
and collected a little more than eight dollars in small coins 
which he presented to the happy lad. 

The bucking broncho outlaws made me hold my breath. 
They are horses which cannot be controlled and have to be 
thrown and blindfolded before they can be saddled. The 
rider mounts from another horse. The moment he touches 
the saddle, the outlaw is up in the air, bucking, twirling, 



24 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

rearing and plunging. The rider dare not touch leather, that 
is to say, he must not, in any way, touch the saddle to keep 
himself from falling off. 

An experienced horse breaker, or trainer, always rides 
along by the outlaw's side to be ready to help the rider dis- 
mount or to give him help if he needs it. Usually the bron- 
cho calms down after a few moments and gallops off down 
the field. Then when he begins to slow down, the rider 
slips over onto his assistant's saddle and a cowboy throws 
his lasso over the outlaw's head, then the saddle is jerked off 
without much trouble. 

A young Landerite, familiarly called Stub, who has some 
Indian blood, nearly always wins the money. I do believe 
that young fellow would undertake to ride a wild tiger if 
anyone dared him or if he were offered a liberal purse for 
the feat. 

The most exciting and unusual race of all was the wild 
horse race. Horses which had never felt the touch of leath- 
er in any way were driven into a corral and later onto the 
track. They were lassoed, thrown and blindfolded, then 
saddled and some of the more daring cowboys mounted them. 
When all were ready, the horses were released and then there 
was plenty of fun and excitement, I assure you. How those 
wild animals did rare and plunge! It's a miracle that no 
one was thrown or hurt. I heard one gentleman who is 
visiting the West for the first time say that it was worth 
the railroad fare from New York just to see that one race. 

Some of the animals quieted down and their riders suc- 
ceeded in getting them around the track and under I lie 
wire. 

We had a glance back into the Pioneer days of Wyoming 
when an Indian stole a pony which was conveniently pick- 
eted near a group of cowboys who were supposed to be 
asleep. When the white men discovered their loss, they gave 1 
chase and recaptured the pony. Then the Indians captured 
one of the cowboys, after a great deal of chasing and shoot- 



THROUGH YHLLOWHTONE PARK l»5 

ing, and burned him at the slake and danced round and 
round the flames while their victim was being consumed by 
the tire. Women in the grand stand screamed and girls be- 
came hysterical while poor Stnl> was being biirned alive, 
hut the men only laughed, for they knew it was just a hit of 
clever acting. While the Indians were dancing in front of 
the pole to which Stub was tied he slipped out of the dummy, 
ami. wrapping a blankel about him, joining the redskin 
dancers. 

One number on the program seemed so cruel that it 
spoiled the rest of the program for me. They call it bull 
dogging a steer. A tine animal was driven to the track and a 
young man from Cheyenne, who is a professional bull dogger, 
rode after him. When he reached the steer's side, lie 
jumped from his horse while that animal was going at a 
mad pace and grabbed (he steer by I he horns. Then lie 
twisted and pulled the animal's head back until the beast 
fell to his knees. 

It was a wonderful exhibition of a man's strength and 
agility as matched againsl that of a powerful dumb beast, 
but it was awful to see the imploring look in the poor steer's 
eyes as they bulged from their sockets. The steer simply 
has no chance whatever to defend himself and the per- 
formance is shamefully cruel and barbarous. I cannot see 
why the humane society permits it. Someone in authority 
should bar that Cheyenne lad from all future entertainments. 

Between races some of the cowboys showed their skill with 
the lasso. It is wonderful how those young men can rope a 
horse, while he is on a full gallop, by the head, tail, or foot, 
at their own pleasure. 

A little Indian boy entertained the crowd with his rope 
twirling. The little fellow managed the heavy rope-loop by 
short, quick wrist movements. It spun round and round 
while he jumped under and through it, He even lay down 
and got up again without losing a single revolution of his 
fast moving rope. He had his turn at the fun scrambling 



26 SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 

for the nickels which were thrown to Uim from I be stand when 
his performance was over. 

At night the Indians gave their peculiar and weird dances 
on Main street under the arc lights, stopping every few 
minutes to pass a hat for coins just as the organ grinders do 
in the cities. 

The Indian does not turn round and round or embrace a 
partner as his white brother does in his dances, but he slowly 
moves his feet along in a straight line a short distance and 
then hack again, while his tense body moves upward and 
downward in time marked by the constant noise of a drain 
and the monotonous crooning of the squaws. Sometimes the 
dancers advance on the balls of their feet in short, hop-like 
steps, again they bend the knees and move the body up and 
down, keeping the trunk and arms perfectly rigid. 

In their wolf dance, some of the braves crouch on the 
ground while others advance stealthily forward in long, cat- 
like glides, bodies bent forward, and circle round the crouch- 
ing Indians. These crouching fellows, I suppose, represent 
the prey. 

Many of the dancers are almost nude and have their bodies 
painted in gay colors, others wear war bonnets and drape 
white sheets about their bodies. Von can imagine what a 
weird picture they make under an arc light at night. 

In most of the dances the squaws form an outer circle and 
bob up and down, or move their feet, one after the other, to 
one side while they keep up a constant crooning, or a weird, 
monotonous song. 

I had thought because of the stolid expression of their 
faces that the Indians had no sense of humor, but I know 
now that they enjoy a joke as well as we do. While the 
Indians are dancing, their white spectators crowd around 
them as closely as they can to get a good view. Whenever 
a number of the more genteel-looking men of the audience 
chanced to be standing in the front ranks near to the dancers, 
' h>- male Indians stepped out of the ring and the squaws 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 27 

grouped themselves in the centre and began to dance. They 
moved slowlv and solemnly toward the onlookers and, when 
they were near enough, they grabbed an unsuspecting white 
man and drew him into the ring. 

Of course, the crowd jeered and laughed while the wily 
squaw pinned her victim's arms down with her own strong 
ones and made him dance until In 1 promised to produce a 
coin. The western men knew of this trick of the squaws 
Hid are on their guard, so it is usually some unsuspecting 
tenderfoot who is the victim. 

Onr crowd of jolly bachelor maids threw confetti, shot 
at the street fakir's targets, and had pecks of fun on the 
street while the foot racers were getting ready, but I am 
si i tired from the effect of celebrating that I simply cannot 
push my pen any longer ami yon must gness the rest. 

O, I forgot to tell yon, the date set for our Park trip is 
he fifteenth. We were obliged to postpone it a Meek to ac- 
comodate two of the Easterners. 

I enjoy helping Miss Arnold with tin 1 Kinder so much that 
I have decided to take special training in kindergarten meth- 
ods and to give up grade work after this year. 

Had another letter from Clyde. His heart has melted to- 
ward me again and now he wants to join our park party, 
but fears his uncle will not consent to give him so long a va- 
cation. Really, Mother, I hope he won't, Clyde has always 
taken me too much for granted. I think it is always so 
when young people grow up together in the same neigh- 
borhood. 

I never told you before, Mamsey dear, my chief reason for 
coming West to teach. It was because I wanted to be so far 
away from Clyde that he could not run in to see me every 
little while. I wanted a chance to analyze my feelings to- 
ward him and I wanted him to have opportunity to go with 
other girls. That is why I told him I would not accept his 
ring for two years. 



lis SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

I suppose you are enjoying a peaceful night on the water 
and will be in Buffalo when this reaches that city. 

Give my love to Grandmother, Uncle Harold, and Sis, and 
keep a big share for yourself. 

Sleepily, your daughter, 
Violet. 
P. S. I had some bad luck with my camera but if any of 
the parade pictures are good I will send them to you when 
I have them printed. 

Vi. 



Lander, Wyo., July 7, 1912 
Mother Lover : 

The long letter I wrote Sis yesterday will do for you both 
so I'll just write a few lines today to set your mind at rest. 
Such an anxious little letter it was that I received from you 
today and by way of reply, I do hereby most solemnly swear 
to place into my suit case the heaviest suit of underwear 
that I can purchase in this town, also two pairs of warm 
hose. 

You can also trust me not to permit our guide to impose 
such heavy duties upon me as to make life in camp a burden 
to me. Furthermore, I promise not to be so exacting with 
the ladies in our party that they will dislike me. 1 always 
supposed my mother gave me credit for a good stock of tad 
and common sense, but the letter I received today docs not 
sound like it, You simply cannot help worrying, can you, 
Mother mine? 

The Boston Spinster arrived last night. .Mr. Mack asked 
Mrs. White to call on her and I went, too. We found her 
unpacking a large trunk full of dinner gowns, street suits and 
riding clothes. She was bitterly disappointed when we told 
her she could take only enough to fill one suit ease and that 
the swell gowns must stay in Lander. 

"But I intend to take meals at the hotels," she replied, 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 29 

"and I must take at least one dinner gown, and I shall want 
one good street suit to wear evenings in camp." 

That woman hasn't the slightest idea of what camping 
out means and I fear she will wish herself back in her ele- 
gant apartment in Boston long before we reach the Park. 

Mr. Mack advised her to come to Lander ahead of the rest 
of the party to get used to the western ponies and the high- 
er altitude. I promised to take her for a long ride this af- 
ternoon and I wager she will take her breakfast from some 
elevated table in the morning so that she will not need to 
sit down. She says she has been riding the most "beau-ti- 
ful pacer," on the "de-ar-est little English saddle, don't you 
knaw," but she'll find riding a broncho on a rough mountain 
road somewhat different from trotting easily on a boulevard. 

I am trying hard to think that I shall like rhe Boston 
Spinster, but I fear we shall find her exacting and egotisti- 
cal. She informed me that she has an elegant home in Bos- 
ton, keeps three servants and travels a great deal. 

Mrs. White and I will look very cheaply attired in our 
khaki skirts by the side of the Spinster in her handsome 
broadcloth suit. She has boots, gloves, blouses, hats and ties 
for each suit. When we were comparing the Boston lady's 
outfit with our own Professor White said : "Wait till we have 
been out a week and see who looks the swellest." 

The Kinder are dear and say the cutest things. I help 
Miss Arnold an hour each morning and if ever I prided 
myself on my ability as a teacher, those little tots are rapidly 
relieving me of my egotism. 

Yesterday I undertook to teach one of the youngest of 
the class the proper use of the pronoun me. She said, "Me 
wants to play wiv blocks." "Say I, dear," I corrected, "me 
isn't correct." A few minutes later the little girl, remem- 
bering my criticism, said, "Give it to I." "No, no, Lucille," 
I said, "say me this time. Sometimes it is right to say me, 
you know." She looked puzzled, studied on what I had told 



30 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

her a moment and then asked, "Tomorrow will it be right 
to say me?" 

Our ten mile ride to the coal mines yesterday did not tire 
me in the least, so yon see I am getting toughened all right 
for the six week ride. 

Mamsey, dear, I am enclosing Clyde's last letter. It is 
such a tender little missive that I want you to see it. Real- 
ly, I did not know he had so much sentiment in his makeup. 
I shall not send him the photograph he asks for. The group 
picture of our club will have to do at this time, for him, hut 
I am sending you one I had taken yesterday on my pretty 
pony. If Grandmother likes it, I will send her one also. 

There's a knock — a caller, I suppose. 
Later. 

It was Mrs. Mack. She brought me two long sleeve aprons 
She said she didn't suppose a school teacher would think of 
such things, and she was right, I should not have thought 
to take anything to protect my riding skirt when I wash dish- 
es. 

How shocked Clyde was when I told him I was going to 
earn my way, and, of course, it was good of him to otter 
to lend me money, but it made me angry, just the same. I'd 
rather stay at home than to use his earnings. The poor lad 
might have to do with fewer tan gloves and made-to-order 
boots if I did. 

I am so glad you enjoyed the Lake trip so much and that 
you found Grandmother so well. She must not set you to 
worrying again for Professor and Mrs. White will take just 
as good care of me as if I were their own daughter. Grandma 
cannot get used to the fact that I was twenty-one my last 
birthday, and am quite able to take care of myself. 

The following is a list of postofflces where I shall expect 
to get letters or cards from you and Sis. Address a letter 
to me very soon to Wind River Indian Agency, Wind River, 
Wyoming. Then in the following order: 

1, Dubois, Wyo.; 2, Moran, Wyo.; 3, Snake River Station, 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 31 

Yellowstone Park; -1, Lake Hotel, Yellowstone Park; 5, 
Mammoth Springs, Yellowstone Park; G, Canyon Hotel, 
Yellowstone Park; 7, Old Faithful, Yellowstone Park; 8, 
Moran, Wyo. i for the return trip ) ; 9, Jackson, Wyo. ; and 10, 
Pinedale, Wyo. Of course, I shall not be able to send mail 
regularly, postoffices between here and the Park are so far 
apart. 

I last ily yours, 

VI. 



('amp Washakie, July is, 1912. 

Here we are, Mamsey darling, in our first camp. We are 
delightfully located with our tents and tepees under the 
trees on the hank of the Little Wind River, near the Post, 
not far from the Shoshone Indian Agency. 

The river is one of those clear, lurhulent mountain streams 
which I love so much. I shall always feel out of patience 
with the lazy quiet brooks we have in the Central States 
after this. 

This stream is a branch of the Pig Wind, which was so 
named by the Indians who are always practical in the mat- 
ter of names. They noticed a strong current of wind com- 
ing down the liver from the northwest and that it is quite, 
prevalent. It comes from the gap between the Shoshone 
and the Wind River Ranges. 

The Post was formerly a military station and is situated 
between the Agency and the Indian schools. It was, at one 
time, a gay place, as all military posts are. There still re- 
main here a shabby hotel, a couple of well stocked stores, a 
blacksmith shop and some houses occupied by government 
employees. 

According to the original plan we were to remain in this 
camp a week, but the Spinster and the man from New York 
are already getting restless and want to move on. The rest 
of us want to take some more baths in the hot springs which 
are located bevond the school. 



32 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

Our Guide had quite a disappointment the day before we 
left Lander. The two teachers in Philadelphia wired that 
they had changed their vacation plans and would not join 
the Yellowstone party. It cheats our Guide out of live hun- 
dred dollars which he had counted on. He had made a re- 
duction in his regular price of one hundred dollars because 
the two were coming together. Next year contracts will 
have to be signed and a cash deposit made before tourists 
come West. A disappointment of this sort would have 
made almost any other man blue, but Mr. Mack is as cheer- 
ful and good natured as if he had two extra passengers in- 
stead of two less than he expected. 

The Spinster and the New Yorker, a chronic dyspeptic, 
were as anxious as the rest of us to take the baths at first, 
for the waters are said to possess remarkable curative pow- 
ers, but it costs a little effort to ride the four miles every 
morning and, too, the bath house is a mere dirty shed, which 
stands right out in the hot sun. The springs are owned by 
the Indians, which fact accounts for their neglected state. 
After the second bath our Easterners decided they were not 
receiving enough benefit to warrant the effort it cost. They 
loll around in the shade and grumble while Professor and 
Mrs. White and I ride over for a daily plunge. I have also 
been exploring the nearby canyons and have visited the In- 
dian school. 

It is terribly hot during the day, but most delightfully 
cool at night and how I do sleep in the tent ! I get up feeling 
so refreshed and vigorous. My bed is a canvas cot, but the 
Spinster sleeps on a pneumatic mattress, which she informs 
everybody cost twenty-eight dollars and fifty cents in Bos- 
ton. 

She and I occupy the same tent and the young lady who 
arrives from Omaha tomorrow will also have a cot in our 
tent. The men each have tepees and sleep on light mattress- 
es on the ground. 

The general merchandise store here lias the finest collec- 



Til Una ill YELLOWSTONE /'AUK 33 

tion of Indian goods I ever saw and we have all invested in 
the souvenirs. The Spinster bought so many beaded belts, 
purses, and war clubs, to give to her Boston friends, that she 
could not get them into her suit ease and has sent them by 
stag.- to Lander. Isn't it nice to have plenty of money so 
one van remember all one's friends? 

This letter certainly puts the eart before the horse. I 
should have begun with a description of our trip from Lan- 
der to the Post. Here goes: 

We left Lander at three o'clock Monday afternoon and 
firsl set foot on the Shoshone Reservation when about four 
miles from our starting plan-. .lust the other side of the 
Reservation boundary we came to Milford, which consists 
of a small group of nouses and a church. Just across the 
bridge at Milford is a little spring of delicious water cov- 
ered with cress. Here I discovered a new remedy for your 
chronic winter hoarseness. The Dyspeptic had taken a cold 
on the train and was quite hoarse. After he had eaten some 
of the cress we noticed a decided improvement in his voiee 
so he ate more of it and, strange to say, he lost all of his 
hoarseness before we reached the Post. You must try this 
remedy this fall, Mother. 

The ride over the Reservation was most disappointing. 
I had expected to see it literally dotted with Indian tepees 
and huts. Instead it was one long stretch of sage brush and 
sandy soil, as lonely a tract of land as I ever care to see. 
We passed but one Indian and saw no tepee until we drew 
near the Agency. 

The men of our party had each bought game licenses and 
carried guns. The Wyomingites got their licenses for two 
and one half dollars, but the New Yorker had to pay fifty 
for his. They bought the kind which gives them the privi- 
lege of shooting large game as well as fowl. The season for 
the large game does not open until the first of September, 
but we expect to stay out until about the fifth. 

Professor offered me the use of his gun and wanted to buy 



34 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

a license for me, but ever since I succeeded in hitting thai 
poor little squirrel a year ago, and saw him roll down the 
hill in a pathetic little ball I have no desire for that sort of 
sport. Hereafter the only target at which I shall point a 
gun will be some inanimate object. 

We saw a flock of sage hens when we were within a mile of 
the agency. The bold rascals hopped and flew along ahead of 
us for several rods. You know a white man is not allowed 
to hunt on the reservation. Mr. Mack said, "Now if it was 
not so near the Agency, if it was only on the lonesome road 
two or three miles back, we'd have to shoot those beggars 
because they might get too bold and pick our eyes out." 
"Goodness gracious!" cried the Spinster, who had been 
riding ahead of the wagon, "if they are dangerous. I am go- 
ing to get in and ride with you." 

Our two Easterners take everything that is said so lit- 
erally. Are all who live in the east so slow? I never noticed 
that our Buffalo relatives were any slower witted than we 
Ohioans are, but perhaps I would notice a difference in even 
my own neighbors now since I have been living in Wyoming. 
(I can see Lil's eyes snap fire while she reads my compari- 
son. ) 

Well, we reached our camping place at seven after quite 
a trying ride 1 in the heat and dust. I was just a wee bit 
tired but the Spinster had a head-ache and the Dyspeptic 
was as cross as two sticks. Professor and his little wife stood 
the trip remarkably well, because they have a top to their 
easy riding buggy. 

Mr. Mack said, "Now you folks stretch out on blankets 
while I take care of the horses and hoist Hie tents ami Joe 
gets supper." In a few minutes we heard Joe shout, ''Come 
and get it," which I learned is the regular camp call to meals. 

It did not take us long to wash the dust from our faces 
and hands in the creek and to be on hand with our granite 
plates and cups for the sandwiches, sauce, cookies and tea 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 35 

that our Cook had prepared, nor did it take long after sup- 
per to tumble into bed. 

The Spinster is sitting near me as L write, grumbling be- 
cause Joe's biscuits gave her indigestion. The first two days 
we tared well on Mrs. Mack's bread, baked chicken, salad, 
and cookies; but since that has all been eaten and our Cook 
has had to prepare all the food ii is quite different and there 
is considerable complaining by both the Spinster and the 
Dyspeptic. Poor Dyspeptic, if he does not soon get the camp 
appetite he will get so thin he'll blow away. His diet now 
consists mainly of crackers and tea. 

Here I am talking about the Dyspeptic just as if yon had 
always known him . It is time I introduce him to you. He 
is the junior partner in a large mercantile establishment, lie 
is not quite thirty, I think, and would be very good-looking 
if his mouth did not droop so at the corners. He lias been 
a widower for nearly three years, which may account for 
some of his moods. 

Joe, the cook, also has his moods, especially before break- 
fast. If our Guide were not such a clever balance-wheel, I 
fear we'd have some very uncomfortable scenes in camp, but 
he bubbles over with good nature and it is contagious. Ev- 
erything seems to please him. If the biscuits are dough in 
the middle and charred on the outside, he smiles and says: 
"Just the way I like 'em." If someone complains about the 
weather and asks: "Isn't it awfullv hot?" he cheerfully re- 
plies, "It's just the way I like it." Mrs. White and I have 
adopted that expression as one of our camp slogans. 

I am not able to get much companionship from Mrs. White 
on the road because she is not strong enough to ride horse- 
back much and travels in the buggy with Professor. Joe 
and our Guide are out through the day skirting the country 
for horses to ship to Eastern markets, and the Spinster and 
Dyspeptic remain in camp and hold indignation meetings 
or brag of the superiority of the East, so I feel rather cut 



36 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

off from society and usually trail along behind Professor's 
buggy by myself. 

I can scarcely wait w see what the Omaha girl is like. 
She and I will almost be forced to be companions even if we 
are not thoroughly congenial, but I do hope she'll be the 
right sort. 

Here comes the Dyspeptic. I wonder if he is growing tired 
of the Spinster's company. Twice today he joined me when 
I started out on my pony. He is sitting down beside me now 
so I may as well stop my scribbling. 

Give my love to all. 

Your loving daughter, 

Violet. 



Camp Bull Lake Creek, July 24, 1912. 
Dearest Mother : 

I see very plainly that my letters to you, from now on, 
must be very irregular because of the fact that the post- 
offices are so far apart. Do not worry if at any time you 
should not hear from me for two or three weeks. It will 
simply mean that we have remained for several days in a 
camp which is a long distance from a postoffice. 

I see, too, that when we move our camp every day there 
will be times when I shall be too tired to write. Mr. Mack 
aims to get the tent up by five-thirty each day, but when 
we travel over rough roads we shall not be able to reach 
a suitable camping place as early as that. 

From now on we aim t > leave the night camp before eight 
A. M. We will stop near good drinking water at noon, or 
as soon after as we can, to lunch. I dare say we shall want 
to retire very early after the long days in the saddle. 

I am writing this while waiting for the men to return 
with the horses. My pony is such a wanderer that we are 
obliged to keep him picketed at night. Last night he broke 
his rope and coaxed the hobbled horses to wander away 
with him. I fear they will have difficulty in finding them. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 37 

Hereafter, I think, I shall just scribble my letters to you 
in diary form and whenever we come to a postofflce I'll put 
them into an envelope and send them out. Please save them 
all for me, as 1 shall keep no other diary. 

Now I'll begin back at ('amp Washakie so you will not 
lose any part of the trip. 

.Maud, the girl from Omaha, arrived as expected, and the 
Spinster and the Dyspeptic were for moving on at once. They 
said they were anxious to gel off the Reservation so they 
conld fish, but our new tourist did not hesitate, in the least, 
to show tis. strangers though we were, that she is one who 
will have her way when she feeds it is due her. 

One of the paragraphs in the contracts reads that the 
tourists are to have tin- privilege of taking baths in the 
famous Washakie Hot Springs one week, if they so desire. 
Maud said she had not spent a whole afternoon in the shops 
of Omaha searching for a bathing suit to lit her to he cheated 
out of the use of it. 

Mr. Mack was glad of the opportunity of remaining a 
little longer at the Post that he might close a certain horse 
deal, so he said he guessed he'd have to abide by the con- 
tract. Monday would he a better lay for moving anyway. 

I was not sorry to remain a coupie of days longer in that 
delightful camp, besides it would give me more time to 
study the Indian in his home and as he really is. I found 
the Red Man in actual life very different from the Indian of 
poetry. 

Much is said and written about Uncle Sanrs unjust treat- 
men of the poor Indian. Really, Mother, if you could see 
the lazy, filthy fellows in their tepees, as I have, when they 
might be cultivating the fertile soil Uncle Sam has given 
them, you'd feel quite as disgusted with them as I am. 

But it is time I should introduce Maud to you. It is not 
necessary to tell her nationality if I mention the fact that 
her surname is O'Brien. She is a typical Irish beauty, too; 
tall and plump, with those beautiful, big, blue eyes one so 



38 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

often sees in the Irish belle. Her cheeks and lips are rubies 
and her teeth are pearls. It did not take me long to dis- 
cover that she possesses not only the proverbial wit of her 
nation, but the quick temper as well. 

I suspect our new friend is a confirmed coquette, but, for 
all that, I like her for her big, unseltish heart and her fund 
of good humor. In fact we have already become good camp 
chums. 

Mr. Mack said last night when Maud apologized for a 
rude remark, ''Never mind, girl, you're just the kind I like. 
We needed you. You're the life of the crowd." And so 
she is; she has kept me laughing till my sides ache. 

The Spinster whispered aside to me that she thought 
Maud was a trifle coarse, and the Dyspeptic said, "The girl 
puzzles me. She is so different from the young ladies of 
New York, you knaw." Professor and Mrs. White said 
they thought Maud all right for a camp friend but they were 
not quite sure they would care to cultivate her friendship 
at home. 

Professor's verdict of our new friend is just what yours 
would be, Mother mine, but I — well, I like her. But you 
should see how she flirts with the Dyspeptic just to tease 
the Spinster, and she, poor maiden lady, is not sharp 
enough to see through it. 

Maud had not been with us a day before she adopted the 
slow Eastern drawl and the "dawn't you knaw." She treats 
the eccentricities of the Dyspeptic, the moods of our Cook, 
and the whims of the Spinster as jokes, but there is one 
thing she cannot endure and that is the everlasting brag- 
ging the Spinster does about her set in Boston and her ele- 
gant home. 

The very first night when we went to our tent to retire, 
the Spinster pretended to feel sorry for Maud because she 
did not have an air mattress to sleep on, and told that it 
cost twenty-eight dollars and a half. She does not pity 
me when I have to sleep on an ordinary cot because, no 



THROl GH YELLOWSTONE PARK 30 

doubt, she thinks that plenty good enough for a camp 

assistant. 

By the way. Mother mine, so far my duties have consisted 
in making one cake, and in looking alter the beds in our 
lent. I offered to pare potatoes and to wash dishes, but 
Joe would noi lei me help him in any way. "Law sakes, 
Miss Chester," he said, "do you think I'd let a high born 
school ma'am soil her lingers like thai?" "But Joe, 1 ' I said, 
••it' I marry a poor man, as I probably shall, I shall have to 
do more to soil my hands than merely to pave vegetables." 
"Time enough then," he replied. I actually feel ashamed 
not to be doing more for my board. 

At five-thirty, .Monday morning, we were awakened by a 
loud drum on i ho dish pan and out- Guide crying, "All aboard 
for Bull Lake!" In two hours our first camp was torn down 
and tents and tepees packed and we were on our way to 
camp No. 2. 

It was a glorious morning and everyone was in high spir- 
its. It was a little too early in the day for Joe to be in a 
sociable mood, so he took the lead, Maud and the Dyspeptic 
followed, then came the Spinster and I. The Professor's 
buggy and the wagon were the last in the procession. After 
Ave had gone two or three miles, Maud wearied of the Dys- 
peptic's company, so she came back to me, and the Spinster 
spurred her horse and joined the New Yorker. 

The first part of our ride was over the flat sage brush 
country of the Indian Reservation with no ranch houses or 
tepees in sight. Later we came upon a high rolling table 
land with a fine view of the Rockies eight or ten miles dis- 
tant. It looked beautiful to me, but Maud said, "My, what 
a desolate looking country ! I'd hate to have to be buried 
here.'' "How can you think this desolate," I asked, "with 
those magnificent mountains in sight 7 " "That's just it," 
she replied, "They give me a creepy, lonesome feeling." The 
sun shone hot as we rode but I can imagine how the bleak 
piercing winds blow over that table-land in the winter. 



10 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

We passed just two men on that Twenty-mile ride; 
a young man I had met in Lander who was looking for a 
strayed horse, and the stage driver. 

As we neared our second camping place, we reached the 
Big Wind River, one of the wildest mountain streams in (he 
state. It was bordered by a thick growth of small trees on 
one bank and by a high bluff on the other. That was the 
third distinct type of landscape we had seen in a few hours. 

In one place, the narrow road wound up a very steep hill 
at whose base Big Wind rushed madly in its course. Maud 
was resting in the wagon and Professor and I had changed 
places and I was driving. I called to him when we reached 
the foot of the hill to ask if he wouldn't drive, but he shouted 
back, "Stay where you are, the ponies never balk and you 
are lighter than I am. Put the brake on when you are half 
way up and let the ponies rest." 

I drove the team slowly, but I did not enjoy the prospect 
of driving up that perilous climb. We had stopped to rest 
the team half way up and as I started them again I remarked 
to Mrs. White that I was glad that the ponies were so reli- 
able, when horrors! both single-trees snapped in two. They 
must have been checked and the strain of starting on the 
steep grade was too much for them. I had presence of mind 
enough to press the brake with my foot and t<> shout "whoa;" 
fortunately both the brake and the horses responded instant- 
ly. If the brake had failed to clamp or if the ponies had 
oecome excited we should certainly have been plunged ovev 
that precipice into the mad river below. 

I held the reins firmly and told Mrs. White to get out as 
quietly as possible and to get hold of the bridles. Then I 
got out, and as I did so I noticed that one of the rear wheels 
was at the very brink of the precipice. I trembled to think 
of what a single backward move of the ponies would have 
cost us. 

I unhitched the tugs and by that time Professor had come 
back to see why we were so long climbing the hill. "Well," 



THROl GE YELLOWSTONE PARK 41 

he said, "You are two level headed women, but the fellow 
who sold me those single trees ought to be horse-whipped." 
Then Mrs. White and 1 sat out in the hot noon-day sun and 
watched the ponies while Pro lessor rode on to get the single 
trees from Mr. Mack's wagon. 

It was a long and uncomfortable wait because the men 
derided to go on two miles to the Bull bake Creek, where 
they intended to camp over night. There they unfastened 
the single-trees from the wagon and came back on horse- 
back for the disabled buggy. 

Our faces were blistered and so were those id' the rest 
Of the party, hut Mrs. White's lit lie wonder hag came to the 
relief of the party. A liberal coaling of ointment took out 
the smart in a few minutes. 

After the tents were raised and lunch eaten, we women 
lay down to rest while Professor and our Guide went off 
in search of single-trees. We did not get much rest, how- 
ever, for the mosquitoes were feasting on our hands and 
faces and the heat was intense. I hope we shall not have 
to camp in so uncomfortable and dusty a spot again. 

As there was no town within several miles of camp, the 
only hope for single-trees lay in the ranches, but they, too, 
were few and far apart; the nearest one was five miles from 
camp. 

According to our Guide's original plan we were to have 
gone about three miles farther to Bull Lake, but we learned 
Tater that it is almost impossible to get a wagon into the 
lake and so it was well we had not made the attempt. 

It was so hot in the tent that we took our blankets and 
went down to the creek bank, where we lay under the trees, 
but did not stay there long, because the mosquitoes were 
so thick and active. Then we went back and lay under the 
wagon. I finally fell into a doze, but was soon awakened by 
the Spinster, who was grumbling about the heat and hoping 
that our Guide would move on even if they did not succeed 
in fixing up the buggy. "Hut it would not be kind to leave 



42 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

Professor and Mrs. White," said Maud. "It's n«»t our fault 
that they had the accident," she retorted. "We can go on 
and when we reach a town we can send someone hack with 
some single-trees.'' 

Joe was calling, ''Come and get it," when Professor and 
our Guide returned carrying the queerest single-trees 1 ever 
saw. They were unpainted and clumsy, having been used 
on an old mowing machine, but they were the only ones to be 
had in this vicinity. We were grateful to have the clumsy 
things for now we would be able to leave our unpleasant 
camp in the morning. 

I was anxious to see Bull Lake, so after our early supper 
Maud and I, with Joe as guide, rode over. It is a pretty 
little body of water and its fringe of trees was reflected in 
the clear mirror. 

While we were resting, Joe told us the Indian supersti- 
tion concerning this lake. The Red Men believe thai a huge 
serpent makes its home in the lake and, for years, they would 
not come near it, but now some of the younger and less su- 
perstitious of them do visit the lake and fish there. 

When the sun went down it became delightfully cool, but 
the mosquitoes nearly drove us frantic till doe kindled a 
tire and made a smudge. Poor Maud was a sight; her face 
was blistered and was full of lumps where the mosquitoes 
had bit her, but she was as good natured as ever. Her good 
nature was contagious and even the Dyspeptic got oil' his 
high dignity. When the Spinster arranged her blanket on 
the wagon seat which he had placed near the tire and spread 
herself out on it selfishly, but comfortably, Maud whispered 
to the New Yorker and dared him to upset her. lie said in 
his deliberate drawl, "Did you say no tips in camp, Miss 
Maud?" W T ith that he took hold of the wagon seat and be- 
fore we realized his intent, out aesthetic Bostonian was 
turning a back somersault. I never should have believed 
it of our very proper Xew York gentleman. 

We all laughed, of course; all but the poor Spinster, and 



TJih'Ot <;// YELLOWSTONE PARK 



4:3 



she went into the tent and cried. Sin* doesn't deign to look 
at the very penitent Dyspeptic this morning. 

Good! Bere conic the men with the horses. I began to 
fear we would have to stay longer in this uncomfortable 
place. 11 is so dirty because there is no grass; nothing but 
sage brush, sand and mosquitoes. Sakes alive; there's a 
stranger with them, and how we girls do look with our red 
noses ! 




"AM ready to leave Bull Lake Camp." 

The .J. K. Ranch Camp, Wed., July 24. 

Here we are at our third camp, Mother dear. We arrived 
at noon and I am now sitting in the shade near the ranch 
house while I write. The men are down at the blacksmith 
shop trying to fix up some single-trees for Professor's buggjj 
and Maud and the Spinster are in the house talking to the 
ladies. 

We were awakened this morning by our Guide crowing 
like a cock, ami -Toe calling in a surly manner, "Come and 
get it." The men were anxious to get an early start so we 
girls got into our clothes in a hurry. 

We were out of bread, so could have no toast, and Joe made 



44 SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 

flapjacks. lie's really a famous hand at it, loo. When the 
cake is done on one side, lie gives the griddle a sudden jerk, 
and up goes the cake and down again squarely into the pan; 
all turned and ready for the finishing heat. You know I 
seldom eat griddle cakes at home, but in camp, when they're 
covered with syrup, they taste really good. 

Even the Dyspeptic tried a couple, but the Spinster was 
so disappointed at not having toast that she sputtered and 
fussed. Joe muttered and said bad words under his breath 
and there was no knowing what would have happened if 
Maud, diplomatic girl that she is, hadn't said, "Gracious, 
Miss Boyd, you don't know what's good. There isn't a chef 
in the swellest hotel of Boston who could turn out su<h 
delicious cakes as Joe's." 

The rest of us echoed Maud's praises and Joe's wrath was 
appeased. I tremble though, for some time that grumbler 
is going to get on Joe's nerves and he'll leave us cold without 
a cook. 

Say, Mamsey, the New Yorker isn't so small after all. 
When we arrived here this noon he asked Mr. Mack what 
kind of meals these ranch people serve. Our Guide replied 
that they keep. a road house and are always prepared for 
transients. "Suppose, then," said the New Yorker, "that we 
try sitting at table in an in-door dining room once more. I 
really fear I shall forget all I ever knew of table etiquette. 
Come, we'll call it my treat." 

We had come at an inopportune time and had a very 
disappointing meal. It was wash day and the young daughter 
had hastily prepared a meal of canned corn, boiled potatoes 
and bacon; with poor biscuits and canned peaches for dessert. 
We had our palates all ready for fresh vegetables, meat and 
pie. They taxed our friend fifty cents a plate, and very 
little did he eat. In fact we all declared camp canned goods 
tasted much better. 

This is a huge ranch and a pretty one. It seems all the 
more beautiful because it is the first cultivated place we have 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 45 

seen since leaving the Posl and goes to prove what can be 
made of the sage brush land. Of course, the land has to be 
irrigated and Uncle Sam is building large irrigating ditches 
on the Reservation, bul 1 am told that very few full-blood 
Indians cultivate their homesteads. The improved farms are 
nearly all owned by breeds or squaw men, t hat is to say, white 
men who married Indian women. 

Professor jokingly said that it' Mrs. White had rolled into 
the river when the single-tree broke he would have married 
a squaw with several children, then he could have had a 
homestead for each one and would irrigate the land and turn 
it into an immense stock ranch. 

The most interesting thing to me between Bull Lake Creek 
and this ranch is Crow Heart Butte. 1 will send you a 
picture of it. Von must remember the interesting bit of 
Indian history 1 am about to write so you can tell it to friends 
when you show the photograph. 

This butte stands out alone on a sage brush Hat and can 
be seen for a long distance. The picture I shall send was 
taken from a distance of live miles. I am hoping it will be 
good enough in its details to give you an idea of what the 
sage looks like in this country. 

The Crows, I am told, were a cruel, troublesome tribe and 
made war upon the Shoshones. It was agreed between the 
two tribes that if ever a battle were waged in which one chief 
succeeded in capturing the other, the winner should cut the 
heart from his captive's body and eat it. 

The Shoshones succeeded in driving the Crows behind this 
lonely butte. There they surrounded them and captured 
their enemy's chief. The Shoshone chief, Washakie, then 
had him carried to the highest point of the Butte, where he 
carved his oppressor's heart from his body and ate it. Since 
that the scene of the massacre has been called Crow Heart 
Butte. 

Dear me, here comes the Dyspeptic, and I did want (o 
finish this letter this afternoon. 



46 



SIX WKEKti OX IJOh'SIJKACK 




The -I. K. Ranch Camp, Thursday. 

We are still in the ranch pasture. Heal and mosquitoes 
are bad, but we have one consolation in the tact thai we 
were able to buy two loaves of very good bread. We asked 
the rancher's wife to bake six loaves for us and she did so, 
but an auto-load of unexpected guests who remained al the 
ranch over night ate all but the two loaves. 

We stay here today because Professor was not able to make 
anything which would take the place of the broken single- 
trees. He has phoned to Lander to the stage driver to bring 
a pair to Dubois tomorrow. 

All of us ladies have been wearing large straw liats, that 
is, all excepting Maud, and she has only her warm Stetson, 
so she told Professor to order the stage drivei to bring her 
a cheap hat for shade. She hopes it will be one id" the large 
Mexican hats, like mine, because they are so soft and can be 
easily tied down with a veil or scarf when we ride in a wind. 

The Spinster has been entertaining the ranch ladies with 
descriptions of her Persian nigs, her mahogany furniture, 
and her beautiful pacer. She hasn't forgotten to mention 
her comfortable twentv-emht and one-half dollar air mat- 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 47 

tress. Maud whispered, "That 'noomatic' is getting on my 
nerves and I am desperately afraid that something is going 
to happen to it." 

I haven't told you about the man our Guide brought to 
the Bull Lake cam]). He is well acquainted with the young 
man, whose father is a farmer near Lander, and so he invited 
him to join our party. Young Preston was on his way with 
saddle ]»ony and pack horse to accept a position on the con- 
crete dam the government is building about eight miles from 
Boise, Idaho. He will travel in our company as far as Moran 
ami will there go across to the .Jackson Trail to Boise. 

We are delighted to have Mr. Preston a member of our 
party. He is a genial young man and such a capital hand 
with the horses and in handling the tents that 1 fear our 
Guide will miss him greatly when he leaves us. Maud will 
miss him, too, if their friendship continues to develop as 
rapidly as it has begun. 

I wish you might see his queer looking pack outfit. There 
is a wooden saddle, or yoke affair, which is strapped on the 
horse first, then the tepee, bedding, extra clothing, and food 
are all made up into as small a package as possible and roll- 
ed into a tarpaulin and fastened to the wooden rigging. Mr. 
Preston ties his coffee pot, trying pan, ax and fish pole to the 
outside of the pack. It makes quite a picturesque outfit. The 
old pack horse jogs along serenely behind the saddle pony. 
1 neglected to mention that the canned food, the tin plate 
and cup, and the cutlery are all kept in a double compartment 
canvas bag. 

The Dyspeptic seems a trifle jealous that Maud gives 
so much time to the new man, and now that the Spinster still 
remembers the spectacle he caused her to make of herself, 
and ignores him, he is forced to seek my company a bit often- 
er than I enjoy. 

The Spinster says the new man was a God-send for he 
has a large bottle of vile smelling stuff that he calls citro- 
nella, which he verv generouslv lets us rub on our faces 



48 



SIX WEEKS ON JIOh'SJJBACK 



and hands to keep the mosquitoes away. It works like a 
charm and we can forgive and forgel the unpleasant odor 
in our great relief from the little pests. If there is a pecu- 
liar odor to my stationery, yon may know that I have re- 
cently bathed in citronella. 

There is the call to supper, then to bed early in order to 
be up for an early start in the morning. We are all anxious 
to get to Dubois as it is the first postal station we have had 
opportunity to reach since leaving the Post. My ! I do hope 
you will have a letter waiting for me there. 

Tell Grandmother I never was in better health and wish 
she could see how I eat. Lovingly, 

Violet. 




A Suspeurteil Passenger Ferry 

Cam]* Hig Wind River, Friday, 7-26. 
I was too tired last night when we reached camp to write 
a line in this letter diary. We are spending this entire day 
resting so 1 have ample time to write. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 49 

Since I promised to take you over the route, Mother mine, 
I shall have to go back on this page to the J. K. Ranch. 

We were not at all sorry to leave that camp because of the 
heat and mosquitoes through the day and the annoyance the 
rancher's horses gave us at night. But our horses had all 
the hay and grain they could eat and are in excellent condi- 
tion for the hard pulls jusi ahead of us. The horse board bill 
has been no small item to our Guide as there has been prac- 
tically no grazing since we left the Post, and oats cost a 
heap in this country. 

Beyond the J. K., we passed several cable ferries strung 
across the river. The ranchmen living near the stream, not 
having bridges, fasten a strong wife to a tree or pole, with a 
pully attached. They stretch ii over the river to a similar 
pule on the opposite side. A box is suspended from the wire 
and is used in transporting mail and packages across the 
water. 

Some of the ferries are large and strong enough to carry 
passengers. It was really funny to see a man and a woman 
seated in one of these elevated ferries, suspended over the 
wild river, and slowly advancing toward the opposite shore 
as the man pulled on the wire, hand over hand. 

Sometimes, when the snows of the mountains melt rapidly, 
the river becomes so treacherous it cannot be forded, and 
the farmers have to depend entirely on the little ferries for 
their communication with the world on the opposite side of 
the stream. 

When we had traveled about eight miles over the hot sage 
brush country, we came to the Crow Heart Indian School. 
It is so called because it is not far from and is in view of the 
Crow Heart Butte. The school is a small one and is largely 
attended by the children of mixed blood who live on nearby 
ranches. 

The heat, dust and the monotony of the scenery yesterday 
tested the dispositions and physical endurance of our party 
as no previous day had done. If you ever doubted that your 



50 BIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

school teacher daughter has a strong constitution, yesterday's 
ride ought to dispel that doubt. The poor Spinster played 
out early and got into the wagon with our Guide, whom she 
entertained with sighing, grumbling and wishing herself 
back in Boston. 

The Dyspeptic also gave up and stretched on a roll of bed- 
ding in the rear of the wagon. Maud changed places with 
the Professor a part of the day, and I rode in the buggy for 
an hour to ward off a headache. 

We stopped at noon to rest and lunch under a large tree 
near the Dinwiddie Creek. The shade was delightful but the 
flies were tormenting, and a marsh nearby gave our Guide 
and Professor some trouble. They turned their horses loose to 
graze, and Watt Jackson and old Bill got mired. 

By the way, Mamsey, I must tell you how those two ani- 
mals got their present names. When Mr. Mack bought the 
pony for Maud at the Post, he neglected to inquire his name 
and told Maud to call him anything she chose. Maud said, 
"Well, we'll just name him in honor of his former owner. 
Jack Watson." "But," suggested the Spinster, "Mr. Wat- 
son might feel insulted to have a horse named for him.'' O 
well, then," replied Maud, "I'll just twist the name and call 
him AVatt Jackson." So Watt Jackson he'll probably be 
to the end of the chapter. 

Old Bill is the homeliest, rawest boned, most awkward 
gaited buckskin that ever responded to the name of horse. 
He is actually so homely that he is ludicrous, but he is as 
reliable as he is homely. Professor feared his two ponies 
could not stand the strain of pulling day alter day, so he 
rented the buckskin to make it easier for them. He, also, 
neglected to ask the owner what he called his horse. Mrs. 
White said, "We'll call him Bill, because he will be a con- 
stant reminder of the big bill he is running up for his hire. ;ii 
the rate of seventy-five cents a day." 

About twenty miles from the -I. K. we were treated to 
a change 1 of scenery. Some of the party were too hot and 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 51 

tired to enjoy it, but the change made me feel rested. First 
there was a long river bluff, bare, but beautifully striped in 
browns, reds, yellow and violet. A little farther on there 
rose a great wall of red rock. The road winds through a nar- 
row gap in the wall, then passes along under the wall close 
to the bank of the Big Wind River. 

The sun was not in position for a good picture, but when 
we conic back I shall try again for I certainly do want a pic- 
ture of the beautiful Red Pass. 

About lour P. M. we again came upon the Big Wind not 
far from the celebrated Blue Holes, which our Guide had 
promised to show us. It was Mr. Mack's plan to pitch camp 
here near a certain Mr. Dooley's cabin so that we might rest 
before climbing the hill to the Holes. He also wanted to 
give -Joe opportunity to do some baking and cooking 
on the genial Irishman's stove. Mr. Dooley was not at 
home and the door and window of his cabin were locked; 
worse still, there was no pasturage for the horses. Our oats 
were running low and we must get to green fields for a 
good night's feed. 

Tired as we were, we must lose no time, but must climb 
the steep hill afoot if we wished to see the Blue Holes. They 
were the first place of special interest on our regular pro- 
gram and even the Spinster made the effort. 

We felt fully repaid for the fatiguing climb when we 
caught sight of the beautiful circular pool nestling serene- 
ly on the brow of one of the foot hills of the Wind River 
Range. 

There are two of these extinct geyser basins. They are 
fringed by small trees and the water in the lakes is a deep, 
rich blue. The lovely Holes seem like some unnamed jewel 
set into the hill side. 

The water, for then or twelve feet from the bank, is quite 
shallow, then there is a sudden perpendicular drop, so deep 
that no one has been able to fathom it. I presume it is the 
great depth which gives the water its rich coloring. I noted 



52 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



that the blue is much darker over the deep hole than near the 
bank. 

I can never forget how the Big Wind looks just below 
the Dooley place. The current is so strong that the river 
seems like some roaring, foaming, untamed, wild thing. In its 
bed are huge boulders, and one was like an unearthed cat- 
acomb trying to rid itself of its dead. Held securely to this 
great boulder by the straps of a strong harness were the in- 
animate bodies of two handsome iron-gray horses. I shivered 
when Maud tragically asked, "The rider — where is he?" 




"Come null get it." 

About three miles beyond the Blue Hole Hill we came to 
a cluster of trees which afforded shade. There was also a 
fair stretch of pasturage, but the ground was too damp for 
tent floors. Across the road there was a fine elevated tract 
of land inclosed by a wire fence. "What's the matter with 
our making ourselves at home in that pasture?" asked the 
New Man. "The ladies will be high and dry, the horses will 
be corralled, and there is plenty of feed." 

It certainly looked inviting, so Professor rode across the 
field in the hope of finding the owner in a quaint looking 



THROLGM YELLOWSTONE PARK 53 

cobble st nut' house which stood on the hill side. While 
Professor was reporting to us the fact that he had found 
the little speckled house unoccupied, he spied an elderly 
man with a gray beard and a heavy shock of iron-gray hair 
coming toward us. 

The newcomer proved to be the owner of a little cabin we 
had passed. His sole companions are a dog and a tew chick- 
ens. The man's name is Oglivie ami he informed us that the 
owner of the pasture which we wished to use lives up the road 
a few miles and wouldn't he apt to come this way for a few 
days because lie was haying. "1 am sure, tliough," he added, 
••that he would not object to your using his pasture over 
night." 

We did not wait for an invitation, but drove in and were 
soon at home in the most satisfactory camping spot we had 
yet found. (Irass, shade, the river with its rich stock of trout, 
the fence to keep the horses from straying; all helped to make 
it a most ideal camp. Even the mosquitoes were few and ex- 
ceptionally well behaved. 

Mr. Preston, whom we have dubbed the Handy Man, has 
kept us well supplied with fish and cotton-tail rabbit. Joe 
fried the young rabbits in butter and 0, but they taste good. 
All we lack here is some good bread. We are all out again 
and must either eat Joe's awful biscuits or crackers. 

You may have been wondering-, Mother mine, how we keep 
butter these hot days. Mr. Mack provided a number of large 
cans with tight covers and we keep the butter in strong brine 
in these cans. 

We may fish all we wish here because we are off the .Reser- 
vation at last. Mr. Dooley's fence marks the boundary line 
between the Red Man's land and that of his white brother. 

We asked Mr. Oglivie about the horses in the river and he 
replied : "Why, them's my horses, and the prettiest team you 
ever saw. I refused four hundred dollars for 'em.'' Then 
he explained the drowning as follows : "I'd been up to Du- 
bois and I staved later than I oughter. I was — well I was 



54 SIX WEEKS OX HO USE HACK 

pretty well petered out and fell asleep. My poor horses took 
me home all right. I could see the hoof marks where they 
had stomped around in front of my gate and all the time 
a wondering why I didn't get out and let them in. 

"Arter awhile they got tired awaitin' and went off down the 
road. I don't know where they turned into the river, but the 
first thing I knowed I was afloatin' in ice-water under my 
wagon box. I was most stiff but somehow I dumb on top 
of that box and was aracin' down stream. About a mile on 
I was stranded on a rock close to the bank. 

Seems like a miracle I was saved, but my poor horses, they 
was done fer. You see, they got astraddle of that big ruck, 
the harness caught and one of 'em fell and pulled the other 
down. They couldn't git up agin. There wasn't any help 
fer it." 

Mafnsey, dear, I wish 1 had the talent to paint for you 
our camp as it looks tonight. I am sitting in our tent door- 
way as I write, with no light save that afforded by the moon 
and the big camp fire. The others are grouped picturesquely 
around the great log flame. The Spinster sits on a canvas 
chair, the Dyspeptic is stretched out on a blanket with his 
chin resting in his hand and is staring into the flames. Joe 
and our Guide are sitting on the ground cross legged, making- 
loops, Mexican fashion, in halter ropes. Professor and his 
little wife are on a fur rug with backs resting against a big- 
tree, and the Handy Man and Maud are seated on a log 
with the light of the fire full upon- their happy faces. 

Maud is singing in one of those rare high soprano voices, 
a sweet little lullaby, while between the trees which fringe 
the river we can see the silver moonbeams dancing upon the 
water. 

It is most entrancing and no wonder young Preston con- 
stantly edges closer to our bewitching nightingale. 

I wish we might stay here a week, but we move on in the 
morning. 

This will be a delightfully cool night to sleep, while, no 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 55 

doubt, you will be tossing restlessly in Uncle Harold's hoi 
chamber. Such nights as this I wish you and Sis were with 
me, liur such days as yesterday I am thankful yon are not. 
You are neither • ne robusl enough to get pleasure <>m of 
camping under all sorts of conditions. 
Good night. 

your very happy 

Violet. 




Dl'BOIS, WTO. — Center Building-, Store and Postottice; Left Wing, Dr. 
Welty's Ottioe and Drug Store. 

Saturday, July 27, 11 A. M. 

Here we are at Dubois. When we were within about a half 
mile of this place, Mr. Mack shouted, "All hands spruce up, 
the train will soon arrive at the city of Dubois." We mopped 
the dust from our faces, adjusted our hats and neck ties and 
prepared to enter civilization. 

The first building we saw, as we rounded a curve in the 
road, was the quaintest little church I have ever seen. It is 
built entirely of logs and has a rustic gable which is sur- 
mounted bv a crude cross. }\ear the church stand a small 



56 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

blacksmith shop and a one room frame building which is 
used as office by the forest ranger. 

We turned the corner and came to a two-story log build- 
ing, the City Hotel. There were two very small rude store- 
buildings next to the hotel and opposite was a low rambling 
log structure. It contains the general store, the postoftice, 
and the physican's office. A little eating house stands not 
far from the big store. The buildings I have mentioned, with 
perhaps a couple of small dwelling houses, constitute the 
city of Dubois. 

We have seen as residents of the town, eight men, two 
Women and three children. We did not take time to scold 
our Guide for making us primp and clean up for such a city, 
hut tied our ponies and hurried into the postoffice. 

Not one of us was disappointed, hut all received mail he 
or she was looking for. I found a letter from you, my darling 
Mother, one from Sis and one from Clyde. 

I shall enjoy my trip all the more since receiving your 
happy letter, Mamsey, but Clyde's oughi to depress me. It 
doesn't in the least, though; it just makes me feed angry. 

The foolish hoy writes, "My uncle promises me a raise if 
I give up the notion of the six-week trip to the Park. It's 
time he was giving me that raise and, of course, I'll have to 
give the vacation up. Now we can get married in the fall or 
early winter." 

Now, isn't that just like Clyde? Why, I have never even 
given my consent to a formal engagement ; never accepted 
his ring and here he is setting the date for our marriage. I 
am puzzled to know just how to answer him. I wish I could 
have you all to myself a few minutes, Mother adviser. 

I fear I cannot make my feelings clear to you on paper. 
If a girl is really in love, doesn't she know it? Isn't there a 
feeling of something deeper than mere fondness or close 
friendship? 

Now, I do not think that Clyde has the proper feeling 
toward me to warrant his talking of marriage iu lhat 



THROl GH YELLOWSTONE PARK 57 

Off-hand way. Of course, we used to play at getting married 
when we were tiny tads. You remember how 1 used to lie 
the piece of lace curtain to my curls for a bridal veil aud 
how Clyde would slip the key-ring over my finger when cousin 
Avis solemnly pronounced us husband and wife. 

Those childish mock weddings were fun, but this light 
veined talk of Clyde's now, is a very different matter. 
Later. 

I was interrupted by Maud and the Spinster, who came 
across to where I am sitting on a pile of planks. They were 
both laughing as they said, "O, you missed a treat." The 
low building opposite the postoffice store bears a sign which 
reads, "Grain and hay." Maud read the sign and said, "All 
feed stores have large scales, let's go in and get weighed." 
They opened the door and bounded in. A blear-eyed man who 
was leaning against the counter, greeted them with, "Hello, 
girls, my treat. What'll you have ? " Then they realized that 
they were in a liquor store and backed toward the door. The 
half intoxicated man stepped toward them and took hold of 
the Spinster's sleeve and said coaxingly, "Ah, come now, be 
a good fellow . What'll the drinks be?" 

The scared look on the Spinster's face aroused the demon 
of mischief in Maud and she replied, "Since you are so kind, 
we'll take lemonade." "Three lemons!" shouted the would 
be friend to the bartender. 

The Spinster was afraid to refuse to drink the ade, so she 
and Maud both emptied their glasses as quickly as possible 
and then they ran out of the building. It will be a lesson 
for us girls to be careful where we go unchaperoned in this 
pioneer country; other places may not be fully or properly 
labelled. 

My interrupters have gone into the store to wait for the 
stage which is to bring Professor's single-trees and Maud's 
straw hat. I hope it will be a large one, for Maud's poor, 
tender skin fairly blisters in the sun. I think she keeps it 
tender by using face cream and camphorated vaseline. I 



58 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

find I do not burn nearly as readily since I have given up 
using all oily ointments. 

Here comes the stage now. 

Later. 

Such a time ! Such a stage surprise ! We all made a bee 
line for the vehicle. Everyone was eager to see if the single- 
trees had come, and Maud could not curb her impatience to 
see her new hat. 

By the driver's side sat a man; a fairly good looking young 
man he was, with such honest, twinkling eyes. He seemed 
greatly amused at the way we all plied that stage driver with 
"Did you bring the single-trees?'' But the driver was a surly 
fellow. He ignored our questions and, pointing to our Guide, 
said to the man at his side, ''There's your man." 

He, the new man, I mean, then jumped from the wagon and 
as he extended his hand to Mr. Mack he explained that he 
was the man from Brooklyn who had cancelled the Park 
contract because of his mother's illness. He further ex- 
plained that as soon as his mother recovered he boarded the 
train for Lander with the idea of overtaking us. Mrs. Mack 
had phoned to the J. K. just after we had left there and knew 
that we were waiting here for the single-trees, so she ad- 
vised the Brooklynite to come to Dubois on the stage. He did 
as she advised and now he hoped we would take him in as a 
member of our happy party. 

While Mr. Mack was remarking that he could get the extra 
bedding needed for the newcomer in the store. Maud whis- 
pered to me. "Goodie! Now there is a man apiece. The 
Dyspeptic has eyes for no one but you, Vi.. since he hurt the 
Spinster's feelings and now she can have the Brooklynite, 
at least till the Handy Man leaves me. I never did have 
much use for eastern men, though. They are too slow, 
don't you knaw." 

When the surly driver finally uncovered his load, Pro- 
fessor found a pair of siugle-trees all right, but they were 
too frail for mountain work so he hurried over to the 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 59 

blacksmith shop and is having the smith reinforce them 
with some iron. That will keep us here until late this 
afternoon. 

But the hat ; where was that ? The driver produced a large 
cotton umbrella with the remark. "Professor ordered me to 
bring a large, cheap lady's sunshade ami this here comes as 
near filling the hill as anything 1 could find.*' 

Maud's tare fell, then the humor of it struck her and she 
said, "Well, I'm the cheap lady all right, hut the shade I was 
after was under a hat." Now isn't that just like a man to call 
a hat a sunshade? Bui the disappointment wasn't as great 
as it mighl have been, for .Maud found a cheap hat in the 
stoic here which will serve her very well. 

Our bitterest disappointment in Dubois is in not being able 
to get bread. We begged for it, bribed for it and almost wept 
for it, but neither the hotel keeper nor the woman at the 
boarding house would spare us a single loaf. We even tried 
to get some at the private residences, but without success. 

The Spinster bought several cans of lobster and sardines, 
Maud got a supply of candy and gum, and I invested in sev- 
eral packages of soda crackers and other unsweetened bis- 
cuits. I hid them in Professor's buggy for fear of offending 
our very touchy cook. I also bought two sets of little gem 
tins, similar to your muffin tins. You see, the camp stove 
gets so hot it bakes everything on the outer side before the 
middle of the loaf gets the heat. That is why Joe's biscuits 
are usually burned outside and doughy in the centre. Some 
day when he is in extra good humor, I'll ask him to try the 
little individual biscuit tins. 

Four P. M. 

It will be another hour before the single-trees are ready, 
so I can scribble some more. I want to tell you that what 
I have been fearing has come to pass. Joe visited the liquor 
dealer and by lunch time had just enough whiskey in him to 
make him cross. The biscuits were worse than usual and 
when we refused to eat them he threw the plate containing 



GO SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

them as far as he could and said he was done cooking for 
such a high-toned crowd. Then he packed his belonging's 
into a gunny, mounted his pony, and, in spite of the protests 
of our Guide, and the beseeching of the rest of us, rode off 
on the road back to Lander. 

"Whatever will we do without a cook?" cried the Spinster. 
"Cook be darned," replied our Guide. "I'll be cook. Miss 
Violet, where are those crackers I saw you sneaking into 
Professor's buggy? That's right, pass the box. Just the 
Avay I like it." 

If the camp boss was not upset by the departure of our 
cook why need the rest of us feel depressed? In live min- 
utes we were chatting and laughing as if we had never known 
of the existence of Joe. 

At ajuv rate, Mr. Mack cannot be a poorer chef than Joe 
was, but I can see how the lady camp assistant will have to 
do more than to sit around and wait till told to "Come and 
get it/' for surely Mr. Mack will need someone to start the 
meal cooking while he unharnesses the horses and raises the 
tents. I shall really be glad of the privilege of putting a wo- 
man's hand into the cupboard. In the first place, I shall burn 
the black dish rag. I've been itching to give the tea towels a 
good boiling, but dared not even suggest such a thing to 
touchy Joe. 

Our Spinster wants to stay here over night so she can 
sleep in the hotel, but there is no grazing near here and the 
men want to go on a ways. I'm glad of it. I don't like towns 
when I am out camping. The farther I am into the heart of 
nature and away from man-made things the better I like 
it. 

Our New Man did not bring any warm clothing and is now 
in the store stocking his suit case with heavy underwear 
and corduroy trousers. He seems more like the western 
man than the Dyspeptic, or even Clyde. I dare say it is be- 
cause he has traveled extensively in the west. Mr. Mack 
told me he is a cashier in a large bank of Brooklyn and I sup- 



TlJliOitill YELLOWSTONE PARK 



61 



pose the very fact that he has to live on an ordinary salary 
makes him seem to have more in common with the rest of ns 
than is The case with our wealthy Spinster and the Dyspep- 
tic. Maud's father is well-to-do, but not extremely wealthy. 

Professor and Mr. Mack are saddling the ponies so I must 
stop writing and will drop this into the mail box. It will 
probably be some time before I shall be able to mail another 
set of diary pages to you. 

Love to you all. 

Yours lovingly. 

\ i. 

P. S. Our Guide bought a fine little saddle pony here fo? 
the newcomer. 




"I didn't enjoy that donbe-mount ford." 

Camp Warm Springs Creek, Sunday, July 28 at 7 p. m. 

Here we are, camped in a barn-yard, but it is far from 
being an ideal camping place. We are three miles from Du- 
bois in a ranch on the Warm Springs Creek. 

Mr. Mack inquired of the man on this ranch how much 
farther we'd have to go to get to good feed and he replied 
we should not be able to find good grazing for some distance 



02 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

but, if we chose, we might camp in the bain yard and turn 
the horses into the pasture. 

We accepted his hospitality. It is very tine for the horses, 
but quite unpleasant for the rest of us. Firstly, the barn- 
yard odors are not pleasing; secondly, it is damp and mo- 
squitoes are plentiful; thirdly, a baby calf, recently separ- 
ated from its mother distresses us with his bawling. But 
who cares for a few unpleasant hours when we are enjoying 
so many glorious ones? 

Mother dear, I would be willing to fight twiee as many 
mosquitoes and listen to a dozen bawling calves for such 
sights as we enjoyed today. 

Mr. Mack succeeded in purchasing a loaf of bread, a good 
big one, from the woman of this ranch and we enjoyed our 
breakfast of oat meal with condensed milk (that bawling 
calf got the milk we had counted on) bacon, bread with 
syrup and coffee. It's really remarkable how good the 
things one will refuse to touch at home taste out of doors. 

While Mr. Mack cut the bacon and stirred the oat meal, I 
sliced the bread and arranged the dishes. It is really fun to do 
such things in camp. 

By the way, Mother, I don't believe I ever described our 
handy combined mess box and cupboard to you. It is fasten- 
ed to the rear of the wagon, is about live feet high and two 
deep, and has shelves and compartments for food and dishes. 
The door is on hinges, opens outward and fastens with a 
chain. When open the door forms a table which is neatly 
covered with white oil cloth. It is very easy and simplifies 
housework considerably to be able to slip one's dishes right 
out of the cupboard onto the table without as much as tak- 
ing a single step. Then, too, it saves time and labor to 
scrape the dishes and clear the table again without moving 
more than two or three feet from one's original position. 

After breakfast, our Guide began to wash the dishes and I 
to dry them. Maud said, "Mere, hand me a cloth, you aren't 
going to have all tin 1 fun alone." We three really did have 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 63 

a merry time while we banged the tin and granite. Tell Sis 
her old maid sister really consented to dry dishes which had 
nut been rinsed. We didn't take time to freshen the towels 
after we got through, either, for it was Sunday and, besides, 
we were anxious to get an early start for a day of sight 
seeing. 

We were a merry party when we began our march; ladies 
on horseback and men on foot. In a few minutes we came 
to the Warm Springs ('reek ford, and such a ford! The bed 
of the river was filled with large, slippery boulders, and the 
stream foamed and rushed along at a mad pace. 

The men had intended taking their boots off and wading 
across, but Maud and the Spinster were timid about getting 
their ponies through the rushing water so Mr. Mack got 
astride the Spinster's pony, back of the saddle, and, reaching 
around the Spinster's waist to hold the reins, he guided the 
pony safely across. Then the Handy Man and Maud crossed 
in the same* manner, and the Dyspeptic and 1; only I kept 
the reins. I was afraid to trust my spirited pony to the 
hand of a tenderfoot. My! but it was dizzy work turning 
and twisting the pony to avoid the boulders, while the w r ater, 
which came almost to the horse's belly in one place, foamed 
and roared beneath us. 

It was the Dyspeptic's first experience on a mountain 
stream ford. He gripped me round the waist and held his 
breath when we came to the deep place. When we were safe- 
ly over he said, "Now, that was quite a feat, that double 
mount fording, and now that we are safely over I believe I 
really enjoyed the novel experience, dawn't you knaw." I 
always enjoy fording streams and the wilder they are the 
better I like them, but the pleasure of this one was somewhat 
spoiled by that tight grip double mount. 

Professor and Mrs. White very nearly had a plunge when 
their pony stepped on a slippery stone, and fell to his knees. 
The poor little fellow skinned his foot quite badly. 

When all the rest were safelv across Mr. Mack re-crossed 



U SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

the stream for the Brooklynite. We then made a short climb 
to a flat table-laud; here our Guide told us to dismount. We 
threw the reins over our horses' heads and they immedi- 
ately began to graze, as all well trained cow ponies do. 

We walked a few steps to a peculiar slit in the ground 
which was edged with jutting rock. This slit was about for- 
ty feet long and not quite half as wide. We stooped and look- 
ed down into the opening and immediately there were cries 
of "O, how lovely!" "Isn't that grand?'' "My, O, but that is 
pretty, you knaw." 

We saw about sixty feet below us a pool of water; two- 
thirds of it was a magnificent green and the other third was 
a dark, rich blue. We half stepped, half slipped down the 
narrow, rocky descent and found ourselves standing near the 
water's edge and under a roof of hard substance resembling 
molten rock. 

The green part of the pool is shallow, but the blue must 
be very deep, for we counted eighteen slowly before a stone 
the size of an egg, which we threw into it, had sunk suffi- 
ciently to be lost to sight. We saw no fish, but bubbles were 
constantly moving upward toward the surface of the water. 

A small opening in the bottom of the wall attracted my 
attention and I stooped down to look into it. As I did so 
I heard the roar as of a great rushing torrent or a cataract. 
This aroused my curiosity and I crawled into the cave to 
explore the cause of the noise. As I did so a blast of hot 
air nearly strangled me. I grew faint and, extending my 
hand through the opening, I gasped, "Air, air!" The Brook- 
lyuite, who had also become curious as to the cause of the 
sound, was stooping and peering into the cave. He saw my 
distress and pulled me out. It took me several minutes to 
recover. I never before had such a strange sensation as of 
a terrible pressure on my lungs. No one else of our party 
undertook to explore the cave after my experience. 

We were loath to leave the beautiful pool in the extinct 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 05 

geyser basin, but the Natural Bridge was yet to be seen so 
we once more came to earth and mounted our horses. 

We were now nearly eight thousand feet above sea level, 
with a long climb ahead of us. I wish I could have the 
picture we made as we climbed that long, long hill. We 
traveled single file; women astride the ponies and men on 
tail-mount, that is to say, they held to the horses' tails as 
they climbed. It is really surprising how much easier it 
made it for the men when they held to the animals' tails. 

Mr. Mack called our attention to the tine view we had of 
Ram's Horn Peak off in the distance. This peak, as its name 
indicates, is shaped like the curved horn of a ram. The en- 
tire panorama which our present elevation afforded was 
giand. One could see such a variety of natural beauty all 
at a glance; bare hills, wooded mountains, valleys, deep 
canyon, plateau, and river. 

Up, up we went till we reached the timber and here our 
Guide lost the trail. As we advanced into the pines we be- 
gan to descend. Soon the timber became so dense that we 
were obliged to dismount, tie our ponies and proceed on foot. 
The ground was carpeted with dry pine needles which made 
our footing very insecure. The Guide went ahead to break 
the low hanging branches which threatened to pull our hair 
or to scratch our faces. 

Down, down we went ; slipping, sliding, catching at branch- 
es, and stepping over fallen trees. Our poor Spinster was so 
tired she could scarcely keep up with us. A little bottle of 
liquor taken from Mrs. White's wonder bag refreshed her. 
At last Mr. Mack, who was in the lead, shouted, "Hurrah! 
Here's the first one!'' 

Such a picture ! We looked down upon a wild stream rush- 
ing through a gorge with a narrow bridge of rock spanning 
it. Even the Spinster said the sight was well worth the effort 
it had cost. 

After a brief rest we began climbing, only a short distance, 
however, and then we found ourselves walking across the 



60 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

second and larger natural bridge. Our Guide said thai in 
order to fully appreciate this bridge we must get under it, 
so we started down a steep, slippery path. Maud lost her 
footing, sat down with a thud and began swiftly sliding down 
the steep toboggan, screaming at the top of her voice. She 
reached the bottom in safety so the Dyspeptic decided he'd 
find it easier to slide down than to walk and sat down. But 
he hadn't reckoned with the cost, for, when he rose to his 
feet the Spinster cried, "Why, Mr. Moore, you've ruined 
your trousers!" Sure enough, there was a hole as big as my 
hand. 

The embarrassed man sat down again suddenly saying 
as he did so, "My, O, that's horrid, you knaw. The beastly 
hole has gone clear through, you knaw." Fortunately the 
little wonder bag which was hanging from Mrs. White's 
shoulder, contained thread and a needle and while our dig- 
nified eastern gentleman was crouching behind a rock the 
Professor's kind little wife sewed a white handkerchief into 
the hole of the abused trousers. 

We were remarking just yesterday how he is rapidly be- 
coming a changed man under the influence of out door lite 
and his present company. He does not spend nearly so much 
of his time looking into the glass to see how his thick, curly 
hair looks and if his four-in-hand is properly adjusted, and 
actually went two whole days without shaving. His dispo- 
sition is rapidly changing for the better and his appetite and 
digestion are improving so much that we have decided his 
nickname does not fit him now and we shall have to style 
him the Ex-dyspeptic. 

Well, when that aesthetic gentleman emerged from behind 
the rock and turned to display the big white patch and then 
joined in the laugh with the rest of us, we knew that the 
change wrought by Dame Nature was even greater than we 
had supposed. 

Under the bridge Avas a deep grotto out of which (lowed 
the clear, cold mountain stream. There is a cave in one 



Til RoiC, 11 YELLOWSTONE PARK 67 

wall of the grotto, about half way to the top. At the back of 
the grotto is another cave-like opening and, from the top of 
this, is suspended a bell shaped rock and from the bottom 
of that hangs another, but smaller rock like the clapper of 
a bell; in fact, this peculiar hanging rock is known as The 
Bell. 

While our Guide, Maud, the Brooklynite and I were cross- 
ing the river on slippery boulders to enter the great cavern, 
Mr. Mack slipped and fell into the water. It was a cold 
plunge, but an hour in the sunshine dried him thoroughly. 

I succeeded in getting about half way into the recess by 
keeping close to the wall and picking my way along the jut- 
ting shelf of rock. Then I sat down and gazed back into the 
Bell cave until I was carried into Fairyland and saw the dark 
grotto peopled with water nymphs and quaint little rock 
elves. The Bell marked the entrance to Elfville, and I was 
just exploring the underground passage leading to the great 
king's castle when I was rudely snatched from my delight- 
ful reverie by the shouting of my name. The Handy Man 
was trying to take a picture and wanted me to face the cam- 
era; I am sure In 1 wasted the film because the grotto is so 
dark. 

There is a high rocky wall opposite and only a few rods 
from the cavern, and while we were lunching on some sand- 
wiches our Guide had carried in a little knapsack, he told 
us an interesting bit of Indian strategy which took place 
on that wall. History relates that Chief Washakie, with a 
band of Shoshones, was driven down into this little gully 
at the mouth of the grotto and was guarded and surrounded 
by his enemies. The steep rock wall was considered im- 
passable and the poor Shoshones, with their brave chief, 
were doomed to certain destruction. Imagine the surprise 
of the warring Indians the next morning when they discov- 
ered that their enemies had escaped during the night, The 
wily and persistent Washakie had shown his faithful Sho- 
shones how to cut a pass into and around that hitherto im- 



G8 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



passable wall. This was made possible because of the fact 
that the rushing water drowned the noise made by the escap- 
ing Kedskins. 

Our delightful day came very near to having a tragic end. 
When we were ready to go back to camp our Guide climbed 
the trail and tied the strong rope, which he always carries 




'Chief \\ u.shakie with his tribesmen made a pass around the wall. 



knotted about his waist, to a large bush of sage. He threw 
the other end down to the Professor, who steadied himself 
by it and easily climbed to the top of the path. Then he sat 
down beside Mr. Mack, braced his feet against a rock, and. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 69 

together, they pulled first the Spinster and then Maud to 
the top. 

While I was being pulled up the rock against which Pro- 
fessor was bracing himself became dislodged and suddenly an 
avalanche was tumbling down that path. When the Pro- 
fessor fell the rock give way he shouted, "Look out !" and I 
dodged to one side and grabbed an overhanging bush just 
in time to escape the shower of rocks which were flying in all 
directions like a lot of mad demons escaping from some un- 
guarded cave. How those of our party who were still at the 
bottom of the path escaped with only a few slight bruises is 
a miracle. Perhaps the Brooklynite's fervent, "0 God, have 
mercy," wrought the miracle. 

It was a quiet, but grateful company who slowly climbed 
back to where the ponies were tied. The climb back was not 
nearly so difficult as our descent had been because our Guide 
found the cleared trail. 

As we were Hearing the beautiful geyser basin Mr. Mack 
remarked that he had taken a most refreshing bath in the pool 
a year ago. The novelty of a bath in the natural tub, eight 
thousand feet above sea level, appealed to the men at once 
and the Ex-dyspeptic suggested that we ladies ride on to 
the ford and wait there till they should join us. We con- 
sented, but when we started down the steep path the Spin- 
ster's old broncho balked. We could neither coax nor whip 
him into taking another step downward. 

Our Guide, who was watching to see us safely on our way, 
pointed out another path, much longer, but not nearly so 
steep and Maud, who never gets confused in the points of 
the compass, and is an excellent hand to remember roads, said 
she would take the lead. 

We reached the ford in safety and had a long wait for the 
men, who came down looking refreshed after their bath in 
the beautiful emerald pool with its water at about eighty- 
three degrees, Fahrenheit. 

We did not ford with double-mount as when we came, but 



70 . SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

at the Brooklynite's suggestion, we crossed in pairs, a man 
and a woman, on separate ponies. The lady then dismounted 
and the man took her horse back for another man. In thai 
way every lady had an escort and every man rode a pony, 
It was much pleasanter than the double-mouni way. 

We got back to camp at four o'clock, cleaned up a bit and 
then stretched out on cots or blankets while our Guide began 
preparations for dinner. I was anxious to see what kind of 
biscuits could be baked in the gem tins I bought in Dubois 
so I quietly left my napping tent-mates and told our Guide 
that I was was going to try my luck with the camp stove oven. 
He was more than pleased, so I quickly mixed the dough, mak- 
ing it quite short and without rolling, I dropped a spoonful 
into each compartment of the tin. I pushed the hot coals away 
from the oven side so as to have less heat and, Mother mine, 
those biscuits were a delightful surprise. They were deli- 
riously crisp on the outside and baked all the way through. 

I wish you could have seen those men eat and the way 
they showered me with compliments. You would have thought 
I was some great genius suddenly brought into their midst. 
Mr. Mack said I was surely looking for trouble and would 
henceforth have a steady job as no one would consent to eat 
charred dough when there was anyone in camp who could 
make biscuits like those. O, well, I shall not mind that in 
the least, in fact, I am glad to be able to do something really 
worth while to reimburse our kind Guide for what he is do- 
ing for me. 

Our Handy Man suggested that the men wash the dish"s 
while the women repacked our suit cases, and loaded our 
kodaks preparatory to an early morning start. The Ex-dys- 
peptic tried to get out of helping, but the rest would not let 
him off. He put my large apron on and held the dishes out 
at arm's length very gingerly as he dried them. It was laugh- 
able to hear the others pick at him and try to give him Wes- 
sons. 

While I am writing Maud and the Handy Man are out for 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 71 

a stroll, the Brooklynite is listening to the Spinster's account 
of her trip to Panama, the Ex-dyspeptic is writing a letter. 
Mrs. White is lying down and Professor and Mr. Mack are 
oiling the wagons. S«» tar. Maud's pairing of our party is 
working out just as she wished, only, Manisey mine, I do 
hope the Ex-dyspeptk- will not always choose me for his 
riding companion, lie is very courteous, highly educated, 
and a perfect gentleman, yet, like Maud, I find the eastern 
men, especially this one, rather boring. 

By the way, Mother confessor, I have decided to tell Clyde 
that 1 wish he would act more in accord with custom and 
at least propose marriage to me before he sets the date for 
the ceremony. It will give me opportunity to say no or yes 
before the cards are engraved. Considerable time will have 
elapsed by the time we reach another postoftice and the im- 
pulsive boy will no doubt have attributed my tardy reply to 
something equal to a refusal. It is just as well so. 

The Spinster is coming and I am tired so I will say good 
night. More when we reach another camp. 

Vi. 



Camp Sheridan, Monday, July 29. 

Mother dear, did you ever write a letter with no light save 
that of a big camp fire, while the rain was making music 
on the tent roof? That is what I am doing now. Our Guide 
says that these mountain showers are of frequent occurrence, 
but they never last longer than a few hours at a time. He 
prophesies that the sun will be shining in the morning and 
that the road will be dry enough by ten o'clock to permit 
us moving on. 

We left Warm Springs Creek Camp at seven this morning 
with everyone in excellent spirits and health. When we had 
traveled a short distance our horses were terribly annoyed 
by large deer flies. How they did cling to the poor beasts ! 
Professor tied some horse veils to the ponies' bridles. Mrs. 
White had made them of white cheese cloth with large round 



72 SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 

eyeholes. She was wearing a heavy veil, Professor had a 
piece of pink mosquito net pinned around his hat and cover- 
ing his face and, all together, they looked like a part of some 
Mardigras procession. 

We had been following the coarse of one of the irrigation 
ditches which are so common in Wyoming and the Ex-dys- 
peptic turned to me and asked, "Doesn't the water in this 
state obey the law of gravity?" "Of course," I replied, "why 
do you ask that?'' "Well," he answered, "I have been notic- 
ing for some time that that ditch runs up hill." I couldn't 
laugh at him for I was puzzled in the same way when I came 
West and cannot yet understand why the ditches are not 
up grade and still look so much like it. 

The road was gradually climbing upward and when we 
came to really hard grades the Handy Man and I did some 
saddle pulling. That is probably a new term to you, Mother. 
Professor tied a long rope to his buggy pole and wound the 
other end around my saddle horn; then I guided my pony 
with my reins while he helped pull the load. It is really a 
great help to the team. The Handy man did the same for our 
Guide. When the road is rutty or when there are sudden 
turns to be made in order to escape striking a rock or stump 
it requires some skill on the part of the one doing the saddle- 
pulling. A careless or untimed turn is apt to break the pole 
of the buggy. One must also watch the speed of the horses 
he is helping, else he is in danger of being prodded by the 
pole. 

It was my first experience at saddle pulling and was nat- 
urally quite a strain on my nerves and tired me. I showed 
the strain I felt in my face and the Brooklynite offered to 
relieve me, but Professor was afraid to trust a tenderfoot, 
who was not used to riding a broncho, to do the steering. 
Then he asked, "Would it not be easier for Miss Chester to 
drive the team while you do the saddle-pulling?" Professor 
said he had not thought of that so he changed places with 
me and it reallv was easier for me to drive. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 73 

It began to shower al eleven and I was fortunate to bo in 
the covered buggy. Mrs. White and I adjusted the sides and 
the rubber lap robe and kepi perfectly dry, but Maud and 
the rest, who had ridden on ahead quite a distance, gol 
Soaked before they were able to get back to the wagon for 
their rain coats and ponchoes. 

The road became slippery and our Guide's wagon slipped 
into a nil and cracked two spokes. .Mi-. Mack had to get out 
in the rain to wire them. 

Shortly after noon we sighted a forest ranger's cabin on 
the opposite side of the creek. We knew it was a forest 
ranger's headquarters because a United Suites flag floated 
above the house. It was still raining and the road was uphill 
and so heavy that our Guide decided to go into camp as soon 
as possible. We forded the creek and asked the Ranger to 
direct us to a good camping place where we might have good 
grazing for our horses. There were excellent camping 
grounds just opposite i he corral, but signs, "No Camping," 
were posted all around the premises. The Ranger said we 
would find excellent pasturage, also dead timber and water 
about a mile back into the woods. He invited us to come into 
the house to get dry and all but the Guide, Professor and the 
Handy Man, who went on to pitch the tents, accepted the 
invitation. 

The Ranger's wife treated us to home made bread, marma- 
lade and hot tea, and how we did enjoy the feast ! We begged 
bread to take to camp, but there was none left. Then the 
Ranger's kind wife offered us the flour and other necessary 
material for biscuits. Maud and I baked enough biscuits for 
supper and some cup cakes while the Spinster entertained 
our hostess with a description of all the discomforts of camp 
as compared with her home conveniences; neither did she 
forget to mention her lovely twenty-eight dollar and fifty - 
cent air mattress. "That setles it once for all," whispered 
Maud. "Never again." 

When we reached camp supper was ready and we our 



74 SIX \\j:jj\s on horseback 

boiled potatoes, stewed tomatoes and fried ham in the Lent, 
using one of the cots as a table. Of course that was covered 
with grease spots when we finished the meal, but they were 
nothing compared with the spots on our riding skirts. 
Mother mine, you'd surely feel disgraced to see the filthy 
skirt your daughter is wearing. Mine does no) look even as 
bad as any of the rest, for theirs are longer and more out 
of shape. 

You sec, we couldn't carry a table in the wagon unless it 
were one of the collapsible kind and there were none of that 
kind to be bought in Lander except the very small card 
tables, so we rest our plates in our laps when we eat. You 
can imagine what that does to one's clothes. The men's 
trousers look as bad as our skirts and I noticed that corduroy 
is no more of a success in cam]) than khaki. 

Maud is uncommonly anxious to retire tonight, so, mere 
tomorrow. Violet. 



Camp Sheridan. 

Here it is Tuesday, S :30 V. M. and {he rain it raineth 
still. 

This is a beautiful spot, a few rods from Sheridan creek. 
The tents and tepees stand under the pines. How I love 
the pine scented air! We, that is most of us, are not mind- 
ing this enforced rest and are enjoying the novelty of running 
out in the rain to have our plates tilled and back into the 
tents again to empty them. 

This noon [ put my raincoat on and baked biscuits while 
the rain was pouring down: Maud thought of her "cheap 
lady's sunshade," had our Guide dig it oul of the bottom of 
the wagon and held it over the dough as T mixed it. "There." 
she said, "didn't I tell you we'd have use for my sunshade?" 

The grass is rather long and when I stoop down to get at 
the low oven, my skirt gets water soaked, but no one ever 
takes cold in these pine camps. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK Id 

Well, .Maud has had her revenge and not once today lias 
the Spinster boasted of her comfortable pneumatic mattress. 
1 wondered last night that Mand was anxious to retire early; 
sht* is usually the last one to get into bed. 

The girat pine fire was lighting our tent and the Spinster 
was peacefully enjoying her first snore when 1 saw our 
Irish lassie get stealthily but of bed and crawl over to the 
hated mattress. She certainly must have made a thorough 
study of its mechanism, for she knew just where to find the 
valve screw. She gave it a few turns, crept back into bed 
again and began breathing hard ami steadily. 

Maud had not let me into her proposed vengeance because 
she feared I would not countenance it. but I suspected that 
the air was slowly leaking out of the math-ess under the 
sleeping Bostonian. Soon that lady stopped her regular 
breathing and sat up in bed. She began fumbling under 
her and muttered, "Well, I never."' Finally she got up, 
punched the mattress, muttered something and reached into 
her bag. 

Pump, pump, pump. I tried so hard to keep from giggling 
that a snort escaped from my throat. Maud began to talk 
incoherently and to toss and throw her arms about to cover 
my tell tale noises. "No, sir, I told you before that I will 
not dance — no — no — " Then her voice died away and she 
snored vociferously while the pump, pump, pump continued. 

At last the wonderful pneumatic was restored to its prop- 
er stage of plumpness and the weary Spinster was soon re- 
suming the snores where she had left off. She was more 
silent than usual this morning and did not allude in any way 
to her mattress, but, while Maud and I were doing up the 
dishes, she went into the tent and gave her bed a thorough 
examination. She became more talkative after she had read 
the little pamphlet of directions which had been attached to 
the mattress, and told the party, while we were at lunch, how 
Maud had disclosed her secrets and love affairs in her sleep. 
Maud asked innocently, "What did I talk about?" 



76 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

That girl is certainly a good actress. I had to turn away 
to hide my guilty smile. The Brooklynite, who is very quick 
and observing for an easterner, noticed the expression on 
my face and whispered, "What trick did you girls play on 
the poor lady?'' I didn't inform him because I knew thai 
Maud would want the pleasure of telling all about it when 
we were all seated around the camp fire after the Spinster 
had retired. She (the Spinster) and Mrs. White are usually 
the first to go to bed. 

We have had a busy day mending and writing letters. 
Mrs. White removed the once white handkerchief from the 
Ex-dyspeptic's trousers and put in its place a neat little 
patch which she cleverly made out of the flaps of the pock- 
ets. Maud sewed a rent in the Handy Man's sleeve, and I 
darned a tear in the Guide's sweater. 

The Brooklynite, who is always thoughtful of everyone's 
comfort, has been much concerned because I have to bake 
biscuits out in the rain. You see, no one ever expects a loug 
rain this season in Wyoming, so our Guide did not bring pipe 
enough to permit having the stove in the tent. This morn- 
ing the Brooklynite got the Handy Man to go with him in 
search of bread. The Ranger and his wife had gone to visit 
some relatives and would not return for several days, so they 
rode over to the Smith ranch, two miles distant. Here 
again they were disappointed, for an automobile party had 
been mired close by and were staying at the Ranch until the 
roads should dry and had consumed all the bread. 

When they returned empty handed, our quick witted Irish 
girl suggested that the men take flour over to Mrs. Smith 
and ask her to bake some bread for us. This she kindly 
consented to do and we shall have fresh yeast bread tomor- 
row. Yum, yum. 

The Rancher assures us that the rain will stop tonight 
and that the roads will be in condition tomorrow for slow 
driving. 

Our Ex-dyspeptic was not very well today and spent two 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 77 

hours in his tepee. I was sorry, of course, that he was not 
feeling as well as usual, but really glad not to have so much 
of his company as he has been giving me of late. The 
Brooklynite came into our tent while I was mending the 
sweater and sat beside me on the cot. "It is rather mean 
to take advantage of Mr. Moore like this," he said, "but I 
have wanted for some time the pleasure of conversation 
with you.'* We had a delightful chat; he doesn't bore me 
as the New York man does. 

The Brooklynite told me about his mother and the sister 
with whom she lives and related some of his travel experi- 
ences. It seems to me that for a bank cashier on a moderate 
salary he has done a wonderful amount of traveling. He is 
an entertaining talker and I believe I like him the best of 
any man in camp except our dear Professor. There is so 
much depth to him and I do like his honest eyes. He seems 
to think my eyes my one redeeming feature, too, for when 
I had my eyes on my darning he said, quite unexpectedly, 
"Look at me." Of course I looked up in surprise at his 
unexpected request. Then he looked into my eyes and said 
quite naturally, "Violet, of course, just as I had hoped; the 
deep, beautiful violet eye. Is that why your mother gave 
you that sweet name?" 

That's the first time, Mother, anyone complimented my 
eyes; I have always considered my hair my sole mark of 
beauty. You know Sis is such a little beauty that I seem 
plain beside her. 

The wind has come up and it is so chilly that I think 
I'll go to bed. Good night. 

Vi. 

P. S. I wish we were near a postoffice so I might get a 
letter from you. I am so anxious to hear what you think 
of the wav I am treating Clvde. Violet. 



Camp Sheridan, Wednesday. 
This day surely has been a disposition tester. Everyone 



78 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

had felt certain the sun would shine and everyone was dis- 
appointed to hear the rain drops falling on the tents when 
morning dawned. The drop, drop has ceased to be music to 
our ears and some of the party are being made irritable bv 
the monotony of it. If we were not so fearful that the roads 
will be made so impassable that we shall be penned up here 
a week or more we should not mind the rain so much 

If we were all on horseback the rain would not keep us 
from traveling; it is only the heavily loaded wagons which 
cannot travel on the steep, muddy hills. 1 should think our 
Handy Man would go on; he may lose his job if he delays 
too long, but I suppose he thinks work can be had at any 
time, while Maud's companionship may be enjoyed but once. 

Our men all have business engagements for the second 
week of September and I have my school so if this delay lasts 
too long we shall have to give up some Park side trips which 
we are counting on. I do hope we shall not have to do that. 

We are only started up the hardest climb to the great 
Wind Eiver Divide and we are told, at best, we would have 
difficulty in pulling our heavy baggage wagon up that grade 
with a single team. 

I heard a lady remark at one time that the quickest and 
best way to learn one's true disposition was to go camping 
with that person and I surely am in position now to verify the 
truth of that test. If I ever seriously contemplate marriage I 
shall plan a camping out trip with my betrothed as one of the 
party; and I shall pray for rain, a three-day rain. 

In our Park party, so far, our Guide lias the highest mark 
for all around good nature, and the Brooklynite ranks sec- 
ond; though I must admit, all things considered, we lane 
an exceptionally amiable and compatible company. The great- 
er part of our party have not been used to dining daily on 
canned meats and soups, biscuits and canned fruits and it 
is little wonder that the Spinster and the Ex-dyspeptic keep 
wishing for fried spring chicken with mushrooms, chilled 
sliced tomato, blue points and the like. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 79 

No one except Mrs. White bad thought to bring any games 
for a rainy day in camp because that kind of day is so rare 
here at this time of year. There wasn't a single deck of 
cards to be had, but Mrs. White's som'erset (our Handy 
Man calls it Methodist high live) has given us considerable 
amusement. Maud, the Eastern Man and our Handy Man 
arc playing as I write. The rest art' reading. 

Mr. Smith brought us four big loaves of good bread and 
how we do enjoy it. Maud said, "I'd rather have a slice of 
this bread than all the mushrooms in Boston." She cannot 
enjoy canned meats and her principal diet consists of bread 
or biscuit and syrup. You can't imagine how good syrup, 
just the ordinary can syrup, does taste in camp, Mainsey. 
Sad to relate, both syrup and butter are running low. If 
we do not soon gel to a store I fear we shall have to live on 
a very reduced diet. You should see what a quantity of food 
it takes to satisfy one in this delightful mountain air. 

The boss of the lumber camp rode over to make us a call 
this morning. He asked how we managed to keep dry and 
said we were fortunate to have such good tents. Neither of 
the tents nor anyone of the tepees has leaked, except in a 
spot or two, where someone chanced to rub the canvas. Our 
caller found us very cozily chatting, seated in Professor's 
tent, with a large ingrain rug on the ground, and seated on 
robes, camp chairs and oat sacks. 

The Spinster took the lumber man over to our tent to show 
him her mattress. Maud looked at me and muttered, "What, 
again? But nevermore." I do hope she will not oblige the 
poor woman to get up to pump on such a cold night as this. 

It must seem strange to you to hear me talk of the cold 
while you, who are in almost the same latitude, are suffer- 
ing with the heat. I have already had occasion to be grate- 
ful to Professor for compelling me to carry warm clothing. 
I have the cashmere hose on now and if it grows any colder 
I shall put the fleece unions on, too. We are using woolen 
blankets for sheets: what do vott think of that? Wouldn't 



SO SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

the wool scratch in a close room? The blankets arc solid 
comfort in a tent in this altitude, especially when it rains. 

Last night a ground squirrel ran across Maud's face. She 
thought it was a mouse and screamed as if she were being 
hurt. Mr. Mack got up to see what was happening and when 
he assured Maud it was only one of the pretty little squirrels 
she quieted down and fell asleep. Another little beast of 
the same family chewed a fancy edge all along one side of 
Professor's leather belt, I shall be very careful, hereafter, 
to keep my camera out of the little rascals' reach. 
Later. 

I just finished making fudge. It's good, too, even without 
cream. Must put my pen away so I can enjoy eating the candy 
with the others. One really craves sweets in camp. 

Vi. 



Thursday, Same old camp. 

We were awakened this morning by the happy shout, 
''Wake up and see the sun shine!" Everyone was happy 
and got dressed in a hurry to be ready for pancakes and 
bacon. Mr. Mack, Maud and I usually take turns baking 
the cakes because it takes so many to satisfy the men. This 
morning the Ex-dyspeptic felt so good natured he wanted 
to see if he couldn't flop them the way Joe used to do. He 
was too slow and the cake fell to the ground, but he was 
determined, and, in spite of our protests against such a 
waste of the precious batter, he kept on trying until he fin- 
ally landed one into the griddle and shouted, "I've done it!" 
as proudly as if he had performed a feat which would bring 
him renown. 

The Brooklynite and the Handy Man insisted upon hav- 
ing the privilege of drying the dishes so Maud said she'd 
wash them. They had a hilarious time doing it, and banged 
the tins and threw the cloths at each other till our Guide 
chased them all away and finished the task himself. 

Maud declares she has cured the Bostonian for good and 



Til ROli; LI YELLOWSTONE PARK 81 

all Time of the "noo-matic habit," and I really think she 
has. The heartless mischief unscrewed the valve again last 
night and the poor Spinster had to get up in the cold to 
pump. Maud pretended that she was awakened by the noise 
of the pump and asked sleepily, "What's the matter. Miss 
Boyd?" "(),*' she replied, "the temperature is affecting 
my mattress, that's all." 

Maud was determined to make a lasting cure this time so 
when the Spinster was in her second sleep that persistent 
girl got up again and unscrewed the valve a second time, but 
she gave it only two or three little turns so that it did not 
entirely collapse until morning. 

To make the matter more aggravating, Maud repeated 
on every occasion, all morning, the fact that the temperature 
was collapsing the expensive "noo-matic" and she feared the 
poor lady would have to sleep on the cold ground, and then 
she would get pneumonia ami all the ground squirrels would 
nibble at her. Poor Spinster has been worried about that 
mattress all day. Several times, when she thought we were 
not noticing, she punched it to see if it was holding the air. 

I fear you, my very proper little mother, will think we 
Westerners (note how 1 class myself) are unkind to our 
dignified Eastern friends when I tell you of another joke 
we played today. The Ex-dyspeptic complained of being- 
cold at night. He said to Professor, "That fur robe you let 
me use last night helped some, but now, you knaw, if I had a 
bed fellow I could share some of his natural heat." 

Maud's quick Celtic brain thought of mischief at once. She 
called the Handy Man to one side and they held a whispered 
conference. I am still shaking so with laughter at the result 
of that consultation that I can scarcely write. 

What do you suppose that scheming pair did? They got 
the little lamb we had noticed in the corral near the Ranger's 
cabin and when the rest of us were all in Professor's tent, 
playing somerset and eating fudge, they gagged the little 
animal, tied its feet and put it into the Ex-dyspeptic's bed. 



82 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

Maud had let the Brooklynite and me into the secret so 
we stayed up to see the fun. When the Ex-dyspeptic enter- 
ed his tepee we stole around behind some trees to watch 
proceedings. Pretty soon we heard our unsuspecting friend 
say to himself, "My, O, this does feel cozy." Then I imagine 
he snuggled up to his warm bed fellow for he gave one cry 
and, a second later, a shivering figure in pajamas stood out 
in the light of the camp fire. Maud put her hand over my 
mouth to keep me from laughing and the Handy Man stepped 
out from behind the tree and asked, "What's the matter, 
Mr. Moore, are you sick ? " "No, not sick," he gasped, "but 
there is a bear in my bed. Won't you get a lantern, please?" 

"Sure I will," replied the Handy Man. "Here, you just 
throw my big coat over you, put my rubbers on and go over to 
the fire till I get a gun and a light." 

The victim of the joke didn't prove to be such a coward as 
we expected. Maud had planned to have the Handy Man 
get the lamb from the tepee while the New Yorker was seek- 
ing a place of safety, but he insisted upon holding the flap of 
the tepee tightly together so the bear could not escape while 
the Handy Man went to the wagon for a gun. The latter 
succeeded, however, in surreptitiously removing the gag and 
cutting the twine which bound the lamb's feet by reaching 
under the rear of the tepee while the Ex-dyspeptic was wait- 
ing for him to return with the gun. The released animal gave 
one bound, struck the flap, which the frightened man lei go 
with a yell, and was off through the woods in a flash. 

"What was it?'' gasped the Ex-dyspeptic. "It looked to 
me like a sheep or a goat," spoke up the Brooklynite, who 
did not want the victim to be nervous the rest of the night. 
"Didn't it look like a goat to you?" he asked of the Handy 
Man. "It was only a lamb, I saw it distinctly," he replied. 
"Come, we'll see if we can't find something to prove it. As 
he said that he reached into the tepee and found a little wad 
of wool which he had cut when he severed the rope. The 
frightened man was convinced and said, "I suppose the little 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK S3 

beast must have gone into my tepee and lain down on the soft 
blanket while I was over getting the fur robe. I remember 
distinctly I threw the door flap back before I went. Now 
that's quite a joke on me, dawn't you knaw." 

We had a big wash day in camp today. We did not dare 
to soak our khaki skirls completely for fear they would not 
dry in time, but each of us washed the mud from the bottom 
of hers and rubbed some of the larger spots. Each lady also 
washed her own handkerchiefs and underwear. Mr. Mack 
drove some poles into the ground near the big pine fire and 
fastened a rope to them so our clothes could dry quickly. 
It was well lie <lid so, for it began to shower before the last 
piece was quite dry. When our washing was done we wo- 
men went into our tent to read, and the Brooklynite, think- 
ing we were well 0u1 of sight, took the pail and soap back of 
his tepee, and, stripping off his top shirt, began to rub a 
suit of under garments. 

Maud spied him while she was going over to get Mrs. 
White's thread so she came back for her kodak and snapped 
what she called a "man wash woman." He certainly looked 
funny as he stooped over the pail, vigorously sousing the gar- 
ment. 

While we were preparing dinner it showered again so our 
Guide moved the stove close to the tent door to make it easi- 
er to serve the food. The heat from the stove warmed the 
tent so well that we kept it burning all afternoon and were 
comfortable as need be in spite of the chilly breeze. 

We were treated to several showers all afternoon, but a 
clear sunset this evening prophesied a bright day tomorrow. 

It is very late; the Spinster and Maud are asleep and I 
should be. Vi. 



Friday, and Sheridan Camp. 
I was awakened this morning by the voice of our Guide 
loudly singing, "There is sunshine in my soul." There was 
also sunshine on the tent, and I was glad. 



SI SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

At breakfast our Guide set bis tin plate of wheat porridge 
on a box while he served the coffee, and the Ex-dyspeptic, who 
is near sighted, sat down on it. It was the first time I have 
ever seen our Guide's temper ruffled in the least bit, but he 
regained his usual good humor as soon as I reminded him 
that there were some shredded wheat biscuits in the mess 
box. The corduroy trousers just had one more spot for 
decoration. 

You remember, Mother, I told you how disappointed I 
was in not being able to get a corduroy riding suit. Well, 
I find that the men's corduroys show and hold dirt as readily 
as our khaki skirts. The next time I go camping I shall have 
a medium gray water proof or cravenetted suit. 

I never dreamed camping would be so hard on clothes. 
Each of us has already worn out a pair of gloves, the men 
will soon have to put on their reserve trousers, Professor 
has worn a hole into his boot sole, and our straw hats are a 
sight; but who cares? The sun shines and tomorrow the 
roads will permit of slow traveling. 

We spent the morning airing bedding and the clothes which 
had been packed in our cases. Our walking skirts were bad- 
ly wrinkled so we heated the solitary iron and pressed them. 
It was a slow process with but one iron. 

Mr. Mack went over to the lumber camp in the hope of se- 
curing some fresh meat but did not succeed. He related a 
story, when he returned, which has depressed me consider- 
ably. 

Last November, nine months ago, a hunter named Allen 
was caught in a blizzard while he was hunting big game on 
top of the Divide. A day or two after the blizzard a dog 
came to the Smith Ranch. lie seemed almost famished. Mr. 
Smith recognized the dog and, suspecting what had happen- 
ed, he went out in search of his friend's body, but found no 
trace of him excepting his camp outfit. 

Liberal rewards were offered by Allen's wife and friends 
for the recovery of his body and several searching parties 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 85 

scoured the vicinity of the deserted camp, but iu vain. Again 
in the late spring', when the mountain snows were melting, 
a party went out to search for the body, but met with no suc- 
cess. 

Last week a party of students, who are taking the same 
trip as we are. stopped on top of the Divide to rest and lunch. 
One of their number wandered off a few rods and came unex- 
pectedly upon the remains of the lost hunter. A small snow 
bank, part of which still covered his head, told plainly why 
the body had not been discovered sooner. 

It was quite evident that the hunter had become contused 
in the raging blizzard, lost his bearings and, becoming ex- 
hausted, either fell or lay down and was soon completely cov- 
ered by a heavy bank of snow, which did not melt until the 
hot days of -July came. 

When the student discovered the body it was still frozen 
and in an excellent state of preservation, but here's the sad 
part of the recovery. Instead of taking the body back to 
Allen's friends while it was still in good condition, the 
Guide tacked a card describing the location to a tree near 
the road. He untitled the first man he reached as to the 
ghastly discovery. The man was a trapper and as soon as 
he could he rode back over the Divide and notified the men 
at the lumber camp. They prepared a rude casket and went 
up for the body. The rains had made traveling very slow 
and by the time they reached the body the hot July sun had 
done its work and it was in a sad state of decay. 

It may be several days yet before 1113' diary letters are 
mailed. I shall tuck them under the Ranger's door when we 
pass there in the morning with the request that he mail them 
when he goes to Dubois for supplies. 

Don't worry about me, Mother dear; I am in excellent 
health and in spite of rain and a few other discomforts, I 
have not for an instant regretted that I started out on a six- 
week horseback ride. So far, for me at least, the discom- 
forts have been far outweighed by the pleasures; however, 



86 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

if you have a friend who contemplates taking a similar trip, 
weigh her well before you advise. Study her disposition, her 
power of physical endurance and the amount of appreciation 
of natural scenery she possesses. 

If your friend does not rank high in the first named (nulli- 
fication, advise her to go by rail to Cody or Gardiner and 
there join one of the regularly licensed five or six-day camp 
ing outfits. If she lacks in both the first and The second en- 
dowments, send her as directly as you can to join the Park 
hotel parties. (But she must have money to do that.) If 
the friend is so unfortunate as to be deficient in all three of 
the qualifications to which I have alluded, by all means Tell 
her to check her trunk to some comfortable and well appoint- 
ed summer resort. But don't fail to warn everyone com en, 
plating a trip to the Park to take some warm clothing. 

I must get my belongings ready for an early camp break- 
ing in the morning, so au revoir. 

Violet. 



Brook's Lake Camp, Sunday, Aug 4. 

Too tired last night to write a line. Such a strenuous 
day as it was. We understand now why our Guide was so 
anxious about the roads when the rains continued so long. 
I can never, never forget that mountain climb and we are 
not yet to the top of the Wind River Divide. 

We left our Sheridan camp at 8:30 and began at once to 
pull up hill. Mr. Mack fastened an extra single-tree to the 
end of the wagon tongue and the Handy Man rode and guided 
the strong packhorse which they hitched to it. I ottered 
to saddle pull for Professor, but the Brooklynite insisted 
upon trying it himself. The pony he rode had a weak back, 
fretted so much and was so slow in responding to the guid- 
ing rein, that he nearly got them into trouble. Professor 
then saddle-pulled with one of his own ponies and let the 
Brooklynite try his hand at driving. 

The Easterner proved to be a capital hand with the ribbons. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK S7 

I assure you it takes no small degree of skill, either, to drive 
a team up that slippery grade with its many mud holes, 
rats, loose si ones and old tree stumps. Every few rods the 
brake had to be clamped, and the horses held in for a breath- 
ing spell. Cieat care had to he used in starting them each 
time so that both the team and the saddle pony would start 
np at the same instant. 

One of our Guide's horses gave us a hit of excitement which 
we do not want him to repeat. He was once considered an 
outlaw and \v;is used in bucking contests. That crazy cir- 
cus horse balked, hacked ami threatened to throw himself 
over ;i shvp pitch. Our Guide never seemed to get in (he 
leasi excited and after seeing the skillful way in which he 
managed that ex-outlaw, I'd trust Mr. Mack to handle the 
wildest span which it is possible to drive. 

We had not been long on the road before the clouds gath- 
ered and it hailed and rained alternately the greater part of 
the (]i\y. We girls were not aide to ride in the wagon for 
shelter because the load was greater than the poor horses 
ought lo pull on such steep and muddy roads. The Brook- 
lynite changed places with me during one of the hailstorms, 
but it was such hard work to manipulate the brake and took 
such close watching to keep from sliding into the deep ruts 
that I was glad to get back on my pony. 

It took us until four o'clock to reach the hist available 
camping place and in all that time we had traveled only eight 
miles. Everybody was cold, tired and hungry; but, in a 
remarkably short time, the Handy Man had a roaring pine 
fire, our Guide had the tents up, and the Brooklynite had a 
fire in the camp stove. Mrs. White was the only really dry 
member of the party so she prepared the canned soup and the 
beans while the rest of us dried out at the big fire. I tumbled 
into bed immediately after dinner so weary that I forgot to 
say my prayers. But O, this glorious Sunday has more than 
repaid me for yesterday's hardships. 

To visit Brook's Lake one must take a side trip. It is 



88 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

about four miles from the main road and as it is quite diffi- 
cult to take a wagon to it, we did not move camp, but all 
went up on ponies. 

It was a bright, pretty morning and at ten o'clock we 
started through the forest of pines and spruce. We soon 
came out into Animal's Paradise, a large open space covered 
with blue grass, nut grass, and wild clover. This wild clo- 
ver has a white blossom similar to that in our lawn at home 
but it has a pointed leaf. No wonder that tourists' horses 
which have pastured here over night have been known to 
come back the following night, a distance of nine miles, for 
another big feast. Fat cattle were grazing in the rich valley 
and there were a number of deer tracks, though we did not 
see any of the latter named animals. It needed a band of 
elk or deer peering through the pines which bordered the Ani- 
mal's Paradise to complete the picture. 

But O, the flowers! We rode over the most exquisite nat- 
ural carpet I ever expect to see. Even the Spinster's ex- 
pensive Oriental rugs, I am sure, were not so rich in color- 
ing as was the rich green grass studded and figured with 
myriads of the most dainty, most brilliant flowers I have 
ever seen. Maud, the Brooklynite and I picked twenty-one 
varieties which we put into the saddle pocket and pressed 
in magazines when we got back to camp this evening. 

They were the kind of flowers one usually finds in the Mid- 
dle-west, and in other parts of the Rockies, but I am sure 
I never saw them in the lower altitudes so delicate and so 
rich in coloring as these. Mother mine, how I wish I could 
transplant for you some of the beautiful white columbines. 
I never knew T before that there were white ones. The Ex- 
dyspeptic is quite up on botany and is sure the flower to 
which I refer is a columbine. It is such a delicate, pure 
white blossom that it seemed almost a sacrilege to pick it, 
I pressed the one the Brooklynite gave me so that yon can 
analyze it. 

The strange part about this great flower garden is that 



Tl/L'ol OH YELLOWSTONE PARK 



89 



there are those which ordinarily blossom in the spring right 
next to the mid-summer varieties. In one small patch I 
picked a strawberry blossom, a snowy daisy, a hare-bell and 
an aster. -Air. Mack thinks the late spring accounts for 
that in a measure. 

We passed several mounds which looked like deposits of 
lava. At our left was Lava Mountain and at our right was 
the serrated wall of rock which borders the lake. 

As we neared our destination we made quite a climb, then 
down again a short distance and into view of the beautiful 
Brook's Lake 

What artist can ever hope to paint like the Master artist? 
The peaceful body of clear water lies in a natural hollow, en- 
circled by mountains and a Gibraltar-like wall ami is fringed 
with pines. 




Gibraltar at Brook's lake. 

We women rested while the men fished. Then we feasted 
on delicious trout cooked in a Dutch oven by our Handy 
Man. I don't suppose, Mother, that you have ever seen a 
camper's Dutch oven. It is merely a heavy round kettle 
with little feet and a pan like lid. The oven is set on hot coals 
Hot coals are also placed on the lid. I am sure I never be- 



00 



SIX WEEKS ON II OliSt: HACK 



fore ate trout which tasted as good as those did. We bad 
carried crackers, canned sweet potatoes and tea in the pack, 
and enjoyed quite a. spread. 

There is a leaky row-boat on the shore of the lake and we 
took turns rowing. The lady baled the water with an old 
can while her companion rowed. It was great fun. 

The energetic Handy Man went to the Upper Lake, a dis- 
tance of about three miles, and caught seventeen trout, upon 
which we shall feast tomorrow. 




••Here we ate the delicious trout cooked in the Dutch oven." 

The sunshine, the delicious ozone, and the charm of ihe 
beautiful scenery seemed to get into everyone's blood. The 
Spinster forgot her grievance against the New Yorker and 
sat on a saddle blanket with him for nearly an hour while 
mischievous Maud, in the absence of her partner, took Ihe 
Ex-dyspeptic away to help her get a picture of ihe Gibraltar 
while the sun was just right. Then thoughtful little Mis. 
White left the cozy bed Professor had made of his saddle 
blanket and coat, and let the Spinster tell her all aboul the 
Swiss lakes she had visited. 

The Brooklynite wandered off behind the hill and came back 
to where I sat writing and said, "I have found them: I was 
sure they were here." "What did von find?"' I asked. "Come 



TllltOlCll YELLOWSTONE I'Ah'K 



91 



and see," hf said, as he extended his hand to help me rise 
from n iy seal on the grass. When we reached the hill side 
he said. "There they are." I stooped down and said, "Why, 
these are only a few common bine violets." "Never com- 
mon," he replied, "but always sweet and modest. Keep a 
couple for your collection and give the rest to me, please." 
Which merely proves i ha1 the ozone was getting into his blood 
also. 

Someone remarked <>u our way back to camp: "Our most 




Looking Across Brook's Lake. 

delightful days have been Sundays." "Yes, said Mrs. White, 
"That is because our Guide was Christian enough to promise 
that the horses would not have to pull the heavy loads on 
the Sabbath unless it was really necessary." 

The evening is quite chilly and I am quite near the camp 
fire. The harmony of Maud's sweet soprano, the Brook- 
lynite's rich tenor, and Professor's deep bass makes a beau- 
tiful ending to a glorious day. V. C. 



Camp Jackson Lake, Wed. Aug. 7, 1912. 
I was too tired Monday night to write, and last night it 
rained and we were so chilly we retired early. 

Monday morning our Guide shouted, "Smile before you 



92 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



wash your faces, girls; it will freeze on and you'll look pleas- 
ant all day." It proved to be a most trying day and we had 
occasion more than once to depend on those cold storage 
smiles. 

It was so cold when we got up that there was a coating of 
ice on the water in the bucket and the fish were stiff. My 
fingers actually ached when I took hold of the cold tins. 
Think of that for August temperature ! Strange to say, the 
flowers along the road were still fresh and brilliant and did 
not seem to have been in the least injured by the cold night. 
If we had had such cold weather at home in Ohio our 
flowers would have turned black and would have drooped. 




"Near the Summit we picked forget-me-nots which grew near a pocket 

of snon." 



We climbed up hill steadily all forenoon after leaving our 
Brook's Lake Camp, but the hills were not so steep as those 
on the other side of that camp. Tiny brooks from numerous 
springs crossed and recrossed the road every few rods and 
were to blame for a number of bad mud-holes. 

Below the road, about three-fourths of a mile from the 
Summit, was a large pocket of snow. We who were on horse- 
back rode down to it and had a snowball battle. At the very 
edge of the snowbank the Brooklynite picked a dear little 
blue forget-me-not. He handed it to me, saying as he did 



THROl a// YELLOWSTONE PARK «>:j 

so, "There, now, we are even.*' "How did you know 1 low 
llit- dainty beauties?" I asked. "It is only natural," he re- 
plied, "thai a violet should love a forget-me-not." 

When we began to mount the hill again, after our August 
snow battle, we noticed thai the wagons had turned out of 
the road. 

"Look, look," cried the Ex-dyspeptie, with more animation 
than I had ever seen him show Indole. "A White Steamer! 
How in the name of all that is possible did that auto ever 
1 > 1 1 1 1 up that steep, slippery grade through all those mud 
holes? .lust see her work! The thing trembles like a Living 
beast. How the mud flies! There, she's huh deep. Out. h\ 
jingo! .My, hut that's skillful driving! Did you notice how- 
he turned to avoid that mud hole and came within a hair- 
breadth of hitting that stump? Now watch it tug up that 
long, steep hill. I didn't know there was a machine made 
could do thai ." 

The White Steamer was soon out of sight, hut the occupants 
stopped for the nighl just where we had planned to stop, so 
we had them for neighbors. We learned that they were 
going as far as this (Jackson Lake) and from here in wagon 
to the Yellowstone as no automobiles are allowed in the 
Dark. 

As we nea red the Summit we came out into an open counl ry 
and my! how cold the wind was! I was once more grateful 
to Professor for compelling me to carry the heavy unions 
which I had put on before we left the Brook's Lake Camp. 
The Ex-dyspeptic proved himself to be more unselfish than 
I had expected when he took oft' his sheepskin riding coat and 
tried to insist that I wear it. I knew I could stand the cold 
better than he so I fibbed a little ami told him I wasn't as 
cold as I looked. 

At last, a little after noon, we reached the top of the great 
Wind River Divide, 9,658 feet above sea level. Tacked to a 
tree near the road, we saw the card the tourist guide had 
placed there after the student discovered the lost hunter's 



94 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

body. It reads: "Allen's body lies :; . mi. a little W. of X." 

From the Summit we went down grade a short distance 
and entered the beautiful narrow valley of the first river 
which flows toward the Pacific, the Black Bock. While we 
were on this hill which leads down to the valley we got our 
first view of the magnificent silvery Tetons. They look more 
like real mountains than any I have yet seen because tin- 
peaks stand out alone, and the appearance of height is not 
diminished by the gradual slope of the surrounding country 
as is nearly always the case in the Rockies. 

Our Guide said the Tetons were named in the eighteenth 
century by French trappers and he is not sure whether they 
were named for a tribe of Indians or not. Three majestic 
peaks rise from the Range. The highest is called the Great 
Teton and is 13,762 feet high. I shall be able to recognize 
the picture of the middle peak, Mt. Moran, anywhere because 
of its great central snow pocket. I wonder how many, many 
years that snow has been accumulating there. 

We passed a wagon which looked almost new standing 
beside the road. It contained an empty suit case, ami a 
magnificent elk head. I thought we had come upon a scene 
of another tragedy, but Mr. Mack said the hunter who owned 
that wagon, a Thermopolis man, had been unable to pull out 
of a snow drift last fall so he left the wagon with its contents 
and, leading one horse, he rode home on the other. I 
asked why he had not come for his wagon when the snows 
melted and Mr. Mack replied that it was so far from any 
town it would have cost almost the value of the wagon t<; 
haul it away. 

We saw our first band of elk in the Black Rock Valley ami 
the two Eastern men raced up to the wagon to get guns. 
"Hold on, boys," said our ( inide, "Tm not looking for trouble. 
It's not the first of September yet and that man driving the 
White Steamer ahead, is the state game warden." 

We girls had been on the lookout for a cabin or house of 
some kind ever since we left the Ranger's at Sheridan ('reek 



TBROl all YELLOWSTONE PARK 



95 



in the hope of getting bread and butter, but not a house of 
any kind had we seen. Monday night when we went into 
camp 1 was just too tired and achy to bake biscuits, so the 
Handy Man tried his luck at it, with really good success. 
Now, i here's a man who will make some good woman an 
ideal husband, but I do not believe thai Maud will be that 
woman, although, just now. they certainly seem to be in- 
fatuated with each other. It' .Maud really cares deeply for him 
she will miss him sorely when he leaves us tomorrow to fol- 
low the trail to Idaho. 




>*.•*. y 



"We saw our first baud of elk in the Hlaek Rock Valley." 

The automobile left us early yesterday morning, but we 
came unexpectedly upon it again at ten mired hub deep in a 
terrible mud-hole. The men all went to work and made a 
short stretch of corduroy road of branches and young trees 
and then the horses pulled the auto out. 

Our Guide's wagon was the next to get stuck and one wheel 
was so badly dished that we feared we'd have to pitch the 
tents right where we were and wait until some of the men 
could bring a wheel from Moran, but our Handy Man came 
to the rescue. He had the men pry and pull the wheel into 
shape while he wired pieces of saplings to the spokes. When 
he got through, the dished wheel was a comical sight, but 



9G SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

the strongest one on the wagon. Mr. Mack says that wheel 
will pull us back to Lander. We lost two good hours while 
the crippled wheel was being operated upon, but the sun 
shone and we had a good time under the pines. 

We traveled for some distance in the valley of the Buf- 
falo. That stream is not in the least like the rivers of the 
Atlantic slope, with its placid waters, its wide bed, and peb- 
bly banks. 

We had been warned that flies and mosquitoes would be 
very troublesome in this valley, but, thanks to the cold rains, 
we were not troubled by either one. 

Our last night's camp gave us an excellent view of the 
Tetons and I feasted my eyes on them again this morning 
when they were bathed in sunlight. 

We came to a house at last ; in fact, we camped right next 
to one last night. We bought milk, potatoes, onions and let- 
tuce. I am sure I never before made salad which was en- 
joyed as much as that I made for dinner. But not a loaf 
of bread or a bit of butter could we get. 

As we neared Moran we passed a forest ranger's cabin and 
a couple of ranch houses. Everywhere we begged bread but 
either they were just mixing the sponge or hadn't any to 
spare. We were not much depressed by our disappointment, 
however, because we felt sure the town we were Hearing would 
supply all our needs and, too, we had the long-looked for let- 
ters from home to look forward to. 

Shortly after noon we reached Charley Allen's road house 
and store. Our Guide halted and cried, "All out here for 
supplies.'' "But why purchase our supplies here," we asked, 
"when we reach the town so soon?" Our genial Guide laugh- 
ed and turning to me, said, "Best stock up here, assistant, 
there may be a rush on at Moran." We bought syrup, pre- 
serves, canned goods, and a ham, but Mrs. Allen had neither 
bread nor butter. When she saw our disappointment she 
promised to have a liberal supply of both for us tomorrow and 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 



97 



our Handy Man volunteered to ride back for them in the 
morning. 

Il' we were disappointed in the city of Dubois, we were 
certainly disgusted with the size of Moran. Strictly speak- 
ing, it is merely the post office which is a little room in the 
rear of the office of V>. F. Sheffield, owner and manager of 
the Sheffield Hunting and Fishing Lodge. The lodge lies 
just below the great government irrigation ditch dam which 
forms an artificial bank of the picturesque Jackson Lake 
The lodge consists of a small hotel, a few log cabins, and a 
row of tents. 




The Government Irrigation Ditm at Jackson Lake. 

Water tails from the dam in beautiful cascades. The 
lake snuggles at the base of the grand snow-capped Mt. 
Moran and I should have guessed it to be about two miles 
wide and four or live long, but Mr. Mack claims it is eight 
miles wide and twenty long. He says the lake, which lies 
at an altitude of 6,790 feet, is merely an enlargement in the 
Snake river. It was named in the second decade of the nine- 
teenth century by the head of a trapping company for his 
partner, David Jackson. The valley, or the Jackson Hole 
country, was named for the same man. 

The Ex-dyspeptic hired Mr. Sheffield to take our party 
across the lake in the gasoline launch, but Maud spied some 
row boats, and looking at the Handy Man, she said, "I'd 



98 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

so much rather row." "So would I," he replied. "Good," said 
Maud. "Come on, Mr. Abbott, we need you to help row and 
Vi. must come to balance the boat. I wanted to go out in 
the row boat very much, but thought it rude to the New 
Yorker and said as much. Maud, in her impulsive way, 
turned to the New Yorker and said, "You don't mind, Mr. 
Moore, do you, if Violet goes with us?" He made a very po- 
lite reply and I went with Maud. 

Next summer, Mother mine, you and I will come up to the 
lodge to rest and fish and we'll spend hours on the picturesque 
lake. 

We rowed out about three miles and forgot that we were 
ever hot and tired, or wet and cold; forgot there was any- 
thing in this world but beauty, peace and joy. (The sunset 
on the water, you see, had the same effect as moonlight.) 

Maud began to sing, the Brooklynite chimed in with his 
fine tenor and I carried the alto. You know how well even 
mediocre voices sound on water, but Maud's sweet soprano 
blended so well with the Brooklynite's splendid tenor they 
made music to thrill one. The men stopped rowing awhile 
and let the boat drift. When the song was ended the Brook- 
lynite said, "Miss Chester, had we known you possess so 
rare a contralto we would never have permitted you to write 
while the rest of us were singing around the camp fire. You 
have cheated us out of many a rich treat." 

Our camp is pitched on a hill above the lodge, but the 
Spinster has deserted us for the time we arc to remain here 
and is boarding and lodging at the hotel. Poor thing docs gel 
so tired of camping, but the rest of us, the Ex-dyspeptic in- 
cluded, like camp life better every day. Mamsey, arc you 
sure there isn't a strain of Gypsy in me? It would surprise 
you how the Professor's little wife is gaining in health and 
strength. 

The night watchman at the dam is a famous fisherman and 
really, Mother, you'd think he had stepped out of someone's 
art collection for he's just the type of angler that artists love 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 99 

to paint. I wish you might have seen the trout he brought 
for our supper. It weighed six pounds. This morning our 
Guide and the Handy Man got up at five to fish. They caught 
two four pounders and one which weighed five pounds. 

Fishermen here use big suckers for bait. They are very 
plentiful in the lake. The trout grab at a three inch cube 
of sucker meat as a dog grabs meat, I hen the fisherman Ids 
the line down vertically into the water to drown the fish 
before he tries to land him. That is the way the large trout 
are caught, the small ones can be landed without first being- 
drowned, of course. I tried my luck at fishing, but caught 
nothing but suckers; Maud, though, caught four or five 
small trout. 

Our Guide's horses strayed off during the night and he is 
out now searching for them. The Handy Man and Maud 
took advantage of the delay and went to the Allen store for 
the bread and butter which Mrs. Allen promised to have for 
us. The bread looks good, but il ought to at twenty cents a 
loaf. 

It is now eleven o'clock and our Guide is coining up the 
hill with the lost horses. 1 think I better put my pen away 
and prepare lunch while he pulls the tents down so we need 
not be delayed longer than necessary. It would be delightful 
to spend a week here but everyone is anxious to get to the 
Park, besides we shall camp here again on our return trip. 

We all received mail here at Moran and all had several 
letters to send East. Inclosed you will find Clyde's last let- 
ter to me. He begins to realize that I am not as much in 
love with him as a girl contemplating marriage should be, 
and really, Mother, I judge from the tone of his letter that 
it isn't a great blow to him. I wrote to him last night tell- 
ing him that I fear we can never be more than good friends. 
I wonder now that I never so fully realized it before. 

By the way, Mother, we are not to lose our Handy Man 
here after all. He has decided that he may as well go with 
us as far as the Western Entrance to the Park and there take 



100 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

the Yellowstone road. We are all happy to have his company 
so much longer. 

AVill mail this today as we leave the Lodge. We arc now 
twenty-five miles from the Southern Entrance to the Park 
and no more postal stations till we get there. 

Your affectionate and happy daughter, 

Violet. 

Camp Snake River, Thursday, Aug. S. Ten miles from Yel- 
owstone Park. 

A glorious day for riding and a beautiful road along the 
Snake River; little wooded places alternating with clearings, 
and little ponds upon which swim ducks and pelicans. It 
seemed a pity that we, who are hungry for fresh meat, 
should not be permitted to shoot the birds which were so 
plentiful, but we are now in the government game preserve 
and there is a heavy penalty for violation of the game laws. 

I presume they have to prohibit hunting here because the 
Park animals often stray out along this river. When I 
alluded to the game preserve the Ex-dyspeptic, who as usual 
was my riding companion, bet me a box of chocolates that 
the correct term is reserve. A sign on the next bridge we 
reached proved that Uncle Sam speaks of forest reserves 
and game preserves, so I have a box of chocolates coming. 

There are some bad mud-holes along the Snake River 
which the government could corduroy at very little expense, 
and, thereby, not only add to the pleasure of tourists, but to 
their safety, as well. 

When the great dam was built at Jackson Lake so thai 
the water of the Snake could be used for irrigation over in 
Idaho, the river encroached upon its banks and deluged sev- 
eral ranches. We explored one house today which was once 
the home of a prosperous rancher. The barns and corral 
are all under water and the once fertile fields are now a 
part of the river's bed. Uncle Sam must have been obliged 
to pay heavy damage suits. 



THROl GH YELLOWSTONE PARK lot 

Traveling was so easy today that no one got tired and now 
they are all clamoring for fudge so 1 shall have to stop writ- 
ing. 



Camp Lewis River, Yellowstone Park, Friday, Aug. 9. 1912. 
In Yellowstone Park at last, hurrah! 
We drove into the Southern Entrance at one P. M. The 

morning ride was uneventful save one little scare we got 
while climbing a very narrow road on a very steep pitch. 
A buggy containing a man, his wife and baby, had to turn 
out of the road to let our heavier wagon pass. The buggy 
fairly hung on the incline and once, when the wheels began 
to slip, a sudden "get up'' from the driver is all that saved 
the occupants of that vehicle from being plunged down to 
the bottom. This dangerous hit of road is in the government 
preserve. 

Mother mine, how do you think you would enjoy touring 
the Park with a young babe in a single seated buggy, with 
tent and bedding strapped on behind, and mess box fastened 
to the dashboard in front ? 

One little incident of the morning was the means of mak- 
ing a member of our party happy, ami proved the proverbial 
honesty of the pioneer. Several years ago a man who was 
working with our Handy Man borrowed twenty dollars of 
him. He left Lander soon after and our friend never expect- 
ed to see his money again, in fact the incident had entirely 
gone out of his mind. We were passing a camp outfit when 
the driver shouted, "Hello, Ernie!'" Our Handy Man looked 
closely at the stranger and recognized in him the man who 
years ago had borrowed the twenty dollars. 

They chatted awhile and then the stranger said, "By the 
way, Ernie, I haven't forgotten those two ten spots." Then 
he pulled a wad of greenbacks from his pocket and handed 
two of them to our elated friend. 

Our Spinster was sorely disappointed when we came to 
a common board sign which informed us that we had entered 



102 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

Yellowstone Park. She had expected to see some very im- 
posing' gateway to mark the entrance. 

A small log house, with cots in the office and in the ad- 
joining room serves as soldiers' quarters and registration 
bureau. A cultured young foreigner is in command here 
over six boys of Troop E. They are the patrolling force 
of the southern part of the Park. 

The camp and the soldiers were very neat and the latter 
were very courteous. While the men were registering and 
having the guns stowed away the cavalry boys brought chairs 
for the comfort of the ladies and set the phonograph going 
for our entertainment. You know unsealed gnus are not 
allowed in the Park, so our Guide left all the guns at Snake 
River Station except the one belonging to our Handy Man, 
and his gun was securely sealed by means of a strong wire 
which the commander wound around the trigger. The own- 
er of a sealed gun must report at every soldier station which 
he passes to have the seal examined. If it has been tampered 
with there is apt to be trouble. 

There are squads of soldiers at various stations along the 
main circuit of the Park and it is their duty to patrol their 
districts for the protection of tourists and also to guard the 
animals and other park property. 

We were surprised and disappointed at not finding a post- 
al station at the Soldier Station. We had planned to pur- 
chase cards just as soon as we entered Yellowstone to send 
to our friends. One of the soldiers very kindly robbed his 
card album for us, so we each wrote one or more messages 
and left the cards for the boys to mail when they went out 
on patrol duty. They go in pairs and two were out while 
we were at the Station so we did not get to meet them. The 
young man in command kindly consented to have the boys 
carry any mail which chanced to come to Snake River for 
us to the next station with the request that the soldiers there 
forward it in case we pass that station before the mail 
reaches it. 



Til inn (ill YELLOWSTONE PARK 103 

When we left, the boys begged us to plan to cam]) near 
the station at least one night on our return trip and prom- 
ised to have what they called "a big time" ready for us. 
They said we were the first jolly hunch which had registered 
there and that the other parties had been surly and stiff 
necked. You see few parties, comparatively speaking; come 
in at the Southern Entrance, so the hoys do not see many 
tourists, and I don't wonder they gel lonely, isolated as 
they are. They dread the long winter for they are located 
here (or ;i year, from July to duly. The season for regular 
touring' parties closes in September or October. 

We girls are going to coax our Guide to camp near the 
Snake River station when we come hack so we can make 
fudge for the hoys. Maud, the heartless coquette, smiled 
and joked her way right into the hearts of two of the sol- 
diers and they robbed their uniforms of pins and their 
trunks of souvenirs for her. I think our Handy .Man regret- 
ted, for the time, that he had changed his plans, hut our 
Irish lassie had him all jollied up again before we had left 
Snake River station more than live miles behind us. 

Our visit with the soldiers cost us more than an hour's loss 
of time, but the day was line and, if necessary, we should 
not mind being on the road an hour later than usual. Be- 
fore we left the commander gave us maps and Park rules 
and regulations, which will no doubt be of assistance, es- 
pecially the pamphlet which locates camping places and 
states the distances between points of interest. 

The first place of special interest on our route was Moose 
Falls. They are but a short distance from the soldier sta- 
tion. A small sign indicates the path. We dismounted and 
followed the path which led back into the woods a few rods 
to the Falls. They are only about thirty feet high, but are 
quite pretty. When I focused my camera on them our Guide 
said, "O, don't waste your films on these little things, you'll 
see some that are really worth while when we get farther 
in.'' 



104 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



After we left the Falls we began a long, weary climb on 
a very rough road and through a dead forest, at least the 
larger trees were all dead. Many of the trees which lit' on die 
ground look charred, showing that an immense forest fire 
must at one time have visited this vicinity, but the pity of it 
is that the young pines look sick, and I fear some blight is 
taking them; if that is the case, I hope the government will 
hew them down before the blight is spread to other forests 
of the Park. I think there must be three miles of this deso 
late pine graveyard and O, how the tiies did torment the 




Moose Falls are the first attraction when one u«es in at the 
Southern Entrance. 

poor horses while we were traveling through it ! Professor 
remarked that it was to be expected that they should 
consider themselves especially privileged since they are gov- 
ernment Hies. I am sure no politician of office seeker ever 
pestered or stuck closer than those awful tormentors did. 

We were glad to come out of the gloomy forest and down 
to the beautiful Lewis River. At first it is a rushing, foaming 
river confined to its bed by a wall of rock, then it becomes a 
silent, peaceful stream with grassy banks. 

We were obliged to travel later than Ave wished because 
of the fact that we failed earlier to find a suitable camp 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 105 

ground. There are always tour thing's at least, to con- 
sider when locating a camp; dry ground, good water, fuel, 
and pasturage. At last, at six we pitched our present camp, 
but O, the mosquitoes are awful; the worst we have met 
since leaving the barnyard near Warm Springs ("reek. But 
these are Government mosquitoes. 

A man traveling from Idaho with two sons came to our 
Guide to borrow tools. lie is doing considerable grumbling 
at Uncle Bam because he does not keep his roads in better 
condition. He broke the double-trees of his wagon and is 
now making a new one by the light of the camp lire. 

I am weary. Good night. V. C. 



Camp Arnica. Creek, Saturday. 

I am glad I dated some of these diary letters, for all of 
the rest of our party insisted that this is only Friday. They 
would not be convinced until we met a party of people from 
Pennsylvania on their way through the Southern Entrance 
to Jackson Lake, who proved 1<> them that I am right. 

We left cam]) at nine and in an hour came upon the Lewis 
River Falls, which are in plain sight from the road. They 
are wider than the Moose Falls, but not quite so high. Soon 
after leaving the Falls we followed the east bank of Lewis 
Lake. This lake seemed like a very ordinary body of water 
after we had seen the more picturesque Brook's and Jack- 
son Lakes. A stiff, cool breeze which was blowing from 
the lake gave us relief from the mosquitoes. Up to that 
time we had made free use of the citronella. 

The roads we travelled today were fair with the exception 
of one rough hill. There were also two very bad approaches 
to bridges. One of them dropped abruptly several inches 
and a tourist wagon just ahead of us broke its reach when 
the rear wheels dropped from the bridge. 

We arrived at the Thumb at two P. M. It is so called 
because it is a little bay or thumb of the Yellowstone lake. 
The lake is about fifteen by twentv miles in size and is the 



106 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

largest body of water in North America at so high an alti- 
tude, 7741 feet. They have never been able to sound this 
lake, but in spite of its great depth, it is so sheltered by the 
Absaroka range that its surface is seldom very rough. The 
Yellowstone Eiver is the sole outlet of this lake. 

A low, rambling lunch station faces the bay. Hen- we 
bought guide books and postals. The manager told us to 
leave our cards and said she would have them taken across 
the lake in the steam launch to the postal station. 

This is the first point we have reached which is on the 
regular circuit traveled by all the licensed stages and we 
noticed at once the improved condition of the roads. We also 
began to see greater numbers of tourists. 

A few steps from the Thumb Lunch Station are the Paint 
Pots. They are certainly a queer freak; holes in the ground 
filled with boiling mud; some delicate pink and others a 
pearl white, and all of them in a constant state of agitation 
with their funny little bubbles and cones rising and burst- 
ing above the surface. Maud said she longed to take her 
shoes and stockings off to let the pretty warm mud ooze up 
between her toes. 

A round cone projecting out above the surface of the 
Thumb, not far from shore, attracted our attention, so we 
consulted our guide books and found it to be the Fishing 
Cone, so named because fishermen stood on the edge of the 
Basin, fished trout from the cold water of the bay and cooked 
them in the Cone. Our Guide laughed and said, "That wa- 
ter temperature is a little exaggerated, besides Uncle Sam 
doesn't stand for anyone cooking fish in his ('one dishes." 

There are several small geysers at the Thumb, but the Lake 
Shore Geyser is the only one which did not disappoint us. 
We had expected every geyser to shoot a tall column of water 
high into the air, but, with the exception of the one I 
have named, they played only three or four feet above I lie 
ground. When we voiced our disappointment, Mr. Mack 
said, ''Hold your patience in cheek awhile. T purposely 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 



107 



came around this way in order to reserve the best till the 
last. I'll show yon some geyser stunts before I get through 
with this job, all right." 

We girls had planned to take a plunge in the hot spring 
water, but Saturday is reserved for the employees of the 
Lunch Station and so we could not use the little shed they 
call the bath house. We visited the soldiers at the Thumb 
Station, but they were not so accommodating or sociable as 
the boys at Snake River Station. I presume it is because 
ihev see so maitv tourists here. 




"We visited the boys at the Thumb Soldier Station." 

The afternoon drive along the shore of the lake was beau- 
tiful and we were on the lookout for bears and other large 
animals roaming about at will. We saw no large game, 
nothing but some little wood chucks and some large birds 
which our Guide called camp robbers. The former are about 
the size of a cat with a head similar to that of a rat, thick 
reddish brown fur, and a bushy tail. They are very pretty 
little animals and those we saw were very bold. 

Professor and the Handy Man were obliged to do some 
saddle-pulling on a gradual slope where the road was very 
heavv because of the soft sand. 



108 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

The party of students who discovered the lost hunter's 
body passed us. They were homeward bound and were a 
tired, dusty looking lot. I think the party consisted of about 
thirty students, nine or ten camp helpers, and a lot of tired 
ponies, several of which were lame. 1 am so glad our Guide 
is so humane and d-.es not rush us through as most of the 
licensed guides do. 

I understand that the students pay three hundred fifty 
dollars for their trip, which, of course, does not include 
their railroad fare to or from Lander. They travel the same 
route that we do, but stay longer at Jackson Lake to fish. 

We established our night camp here at Arnica ('reek 
about five and a half miles from the Thumb Station. Some 
previous campers left boxes and boards, which we made into 
convenient tables for use at dinner and breakfast. They also 
left quite a supply of dry wood cut ready for the camp 
stove, for which our Handy Man is grateful. All we lack is 
grass for the horses. 

We retire early to be rested for an early start tomorrow. 

Vi. 



Camp Howard, Sunday, Aug. 11. 

Contrary to our camp rules and regulations we made the 
horses pull the loads today, the Sabbath. It was all be- 
cause of our Spinster's vanity and love of things to cat. She 
donned her best broadcloth suit and net waist and begged 
our Guide to move camp so that she might have Sunday lunch 
and dinner at the Lake Hotel. Our Guide said the roads 
were good and we could easily make it by noon, so if the rest 
of us gave our consent he would go as far as (he hotel and 
would rest the horses a I! afternoon. 

We offered no objections, to tell the truth, some of us 
were really glad of the changed program because we were 
anxious to get the letters from home which we were sure 
were waiting for us at the Lake 

Our first stop was to take 1 photographs of the Natural 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 



109 



Bridge, which is located about two-thirds of the distance be- 
tween the Thumb Station and the Lake Hotel. It is not nearly 
stt large or grand as the natural bridges we visited before 
entering the Park. This bridge spans a very narrow brook- 
let several feel above the road and one must climb to a poinl 
nearly opposite the bridge to appreciate its beauty. I was 
amused to sec how many of the tourists in the regular licensed 
Stages, merely stretch their necks a hit when their guide 
stops a momenl to announce, "Natural bridge; abutments 
thirty feet and heighl of arch sixty feet." 




The Natural Bridge is located between the Thumb and the Lake Hotel. 

Near a sign post bearing the words, "'Knotted Forest," 
we noticed several trees with large warts or knots on their 
trunks and we wondered if tree warts were so contagious that 
the first tree so marked had transmitted the peculiar blemish 
to its neighbors. 

The drive along the lake was a pretty one. Large pelicans 
swam upon the water, and the Spinster said, "Well, now it 
begins to look like a park." A few rods from the hotel we 
spied two great grizzlies leisurely crossing the road. Maud 
screamed with delight which scared the big bears and they 



110 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

escaped into the timber before we succeeded in getting our 
kodaks out of our saddle bags. 

The first thing we did upon our arrival at the Lake Sta- 
tion was to inquire for our mail, but not a line was there 
for any of us; it was a regular postal station, too, and one 
we had mentioned to our relatives when we sent lists of 
offices where we should call for mail. Needless to say how 
disappointed I was not to hear from you, Mamsey. 

Next thing on the program for the Spinster was to ex- 
plore the Hotel, and she invited the Ex-dyspeptic to join 
her. The rest of us visited the Yellowstone Boat and Trad- 
ing company's store. Here our Guide purchased bread at 
fifteen cents a loaf, butter, and a new ax, while we bought 
booklets of views and other souvenirs. The Brooklynite 
laid in such a store of candy that I shall not have to make 
fudge for several days 

The clerk in the store remarked that there would be only 
three or four tourists and a few regular boarders at the 1 
Hotel for lunch today as this was mainly a dinner station. 
Maud said, "Goody, then it will not matter that our skirts 
look so disreputable. Let us all take lunch there and call it 
a Dutch treat." (That expression means that each one pay 
his own bill.) We all consented with the exception of our 
Guide and the Professor, who said they would drive to the 
camping grounds a few rods back of the Hotel and feed the 
horses. They declared they would enjoy a lunch from the 
mess box more than the hotel meal anyhow. 

The hotel is a big, handsome building and the furnishings 
are in excellent taste; the dining room is very daintily done 
in blue and white. We enjoyed our luncheon of cream toma- 
to soup, lake trout and cold beef for which we were taxed 
one dollar and a quarter apiece and each of our three men 
gave the attentive waitress a fifty cent tip besides. T had 
three quarters in my hand, but quickly added two more. 
If all the Park hotels charge at that rate T assure you 1 shall 
always prefer cam]) fare hereafter for 1 have already spent 



THROW, 11 YELLOWSTONE PARK 111 

so much for souvenirs that my purse is quite slender. Any- 
how, I'd much lather put my money in something I can carry 
home to enjoy with my friends than to give a lot of money 
to the hotel managers for more food for the stomach. (I 
paused in my writing to consuH the government pamphlet 
of information and find that all the Park hotels are run 
under the same management and one dollar and a quarter 
per meal is the price charged in all.) 

There arc several camp companies who are under con- 
tract with the Park Department and have permanent camps. 
The Wylie Camps are usually located near the hotels. These 
camps consist of neat, large tents with hoard floors and have 
stoves for use on cool mornings and nights. When you 
visit the Park, Mother, I think you will enjoy going by rail 
to Cody or Gardiner and there joining one of the six-day 
camp outfits. There are cheaper companies who make the 
trip in four or five days, but that is hurrying too fast to see 
anything, besides, the cheaper companies carry poorer tents 
and serve inferior food, so I am told. 

Of course, none of the regular permanent camp companies 
take the side trips, but one has the privilege of hiring con- 
veyances for those and joining the camp outfit later, only, of 
course, one would not be aide in that way to travel with the 
same crowd after the delay. Then, too, if you want to stay 
a day or two at any place of special interest you may do so 
at the rate of three dollars a day extra. 

Some of the camping companies which meet tourists at 
the railroad stations move their camps every day as we do. 
They carry their tents and cots in wagons and have big 
cook shacks on wheels. Of course, their tents are not so clean 
or comfortable as those of the permanent camps either. 

Just as we had finished lunch our Guide came to tell us 
that we were going to move on. The wind from the Lake was 
so cold and the grass so short that the Lake camping grounds 
were not good or comfortable enough to warrant our stay- 
ing since we could do much better by going on a few miles. 



112 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



Our Spinster was greatly disappointed because she was, as 
she put it, "Cheated out of her civilized bed and bath." The 
rest of us were really glad, since there was nothing more to 
see in that immediate vicinity and the wind from the Lake 
penetrated so it made us shiver. 

We went into camp about five and a half miles from the 
Lake, on the ground used as headquarters by I reneral Howard 
while he was pursuing the Nez Perces Indians in 1877. The 
Indians had been killing trappers and General Howard had 
been sent to put a stop to their slaughter. There is a tiny 
hut near our camp which had been used by one of those pio- 
neer trappers. 




"The wind from Yellowstone Lake was so eold that we decided to move 

our camp." 

The air is penetrated by a strong odor of sulphur and 
when we asked our Guide the cause of the smell he said it 
was because we were within a stone's throw of some of the 
"Old Boy's" work shops. "While, Professor Preston ami 
I take care of the ponies," he said, "you genteel folks might 
take a run across the road and take a look ;it the big pol 
of mush the Imps are mixing up for supper for their P>oss." 

Sure enough, only a few rods from cam]), we came upon 
the interesting mud volcano. Steam, boiling water, and mud 
which looks like soft mortar, are being constantly belched 
from a cave in the side of the mountain, accompanied by deep 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 113 

muffled roars. A coating on trees nearby proves that at no 
very distant date there must have been a very violent erup- 
tion of mud. 

On the opposite side of the road quite a large area is dotted 
with holes and little caves; some of them seething and hiss- 
ing, and emitting steam: others roaring and tilled with boil- 
ing, bubbling mud. One of the larger holes constantly 
blows mushrooms from its surface, which burst when the 
heads are well rounded out and spatters mud on every side. 
The "Old Hoy"' must have a horde of young imps at work here 
to fascinate and allure tourists. Maud whispered, "Von 
bet I'll not forget to say my prayers tonight." 

Some of the little holes in the ground were tinted yellow 
ami the sediment tasted of sulphur, and one of them looked 
so much like alum that we tasted that crust also and, sure 
enough, the stuff puckered our mouths. 

We noticed a large volume of steam rising from the 
ground a little farther tip the road and upon investigation, 
found the most fascinating little place 1 had yet seen. It 
was a cave in the hillside and over its opening a perfect 
gable of rich green rock. The walls and ceiling of the little 
cave are tinted in reds and yellows, and water and steam are 
being constantly ejected from its doorway. 1 am coming 
over here in the morning- to take a picture of this little beauty 
but there is constantly so much steam that I shall not get a 
clear one. We wanted to taste the water which came from the 
cave, hut it was so hot we had to let it cool off a bit before 
we could touch it to our lips. We were surprised to find 
that it does not taste nearly so bad as it smells. 

The guide books call this fascinating cave the Green Gable 
Spring, but some tourist, thinking to improve upon the name, 
tacked a card on a nearby tree, rechristening it the Dragon's 
Mouth and I like that name better, because it suggests Fairy- 
land. These strange freaks of nature do not seem to belong- 
to our everyday world and I am always conjuring up all sorts 
of odd fancies and strange little folk when I am near them. 



Ill SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 

Professor made a discovery this evening when he followed 
a draw to the bank of the Yellowstone River, only a few 
rods below our camp. It is a natural bath tub which is 
always filled with water of just the right temperature for a 
warm bath. Did you ever hear of anything more accom- 
modating, Mother? It is merely the rocky opening of the 
ravine, probably three feet across, and looked as if someone 
had scooped a basin out of the rock. The hot water from the 
springs above flow into this basin and the cold water wash- 
ing in from the river tempers it so that it is very comfortable 
to the body. The men of our party are taking tarns now 
trying the novel bath tub. 

We appreciate more every day the privileges we enjoy 
because of the fact that we are an independent private party 
instead of a part of one of the large camp companies' parties 
to be whirled at a mad pace from place to place. If 
we were a part of one of those we should not tonight be rest- 
ing in one of the most fascinating districts of the Park and 
on one of the most ideal camping grounds. The ponies, 
too, are happy to be here because the grass is so long and 
thick. It is evident that few of even the private parties have 
camped here this year. I presume most people prefer to 
stay back near the hotel. 

I shall certainly take time in the morning to visit again 
the repulsive but fascinating Mud Volcano, the beautiful 
Green Gable Spring, and the funny little mushrooms. 

The Handy Man has brought two buckets of hot water from 
the Green Gable to our tent and Maud and 1 are going to 
have a good sponge. It is my turn first, so I must cany 
the lantern into the tent and get ready. After my refresh- 
ing bath a delicious slumber, and so will end another de- 
lightful Sabbath. Violet Chester. 



Grand Canyon Camp, Monday. 
Another ideal day, warm and bright, but terribly dusty 
traveling. Uncle Sam used to keep the Park roads sprinkled 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 115 

during the season, but 1 judge there was not any appropria- 
tion made for that purpose This year, at any rate it isn't be- 
ing done. In fact, everything has a neglected look. I hope 
the European statesmen who visit the Yellowstone this year 
will not think all our governmental property is neglected in 
the same way. Surely, it would not take a very big appropri- 
at inn to pul t be bridge approaches in repair and to place new 
sign boards. Some of the money wasted by congressmen by 
sending garden seeds to voters who have no use lor them 
mighl be set aside tor Park use. Now of course, Mother, I 
have no authority for accusing a waste in the seed matter 
only that I happen to know that our lawyer friend in the 
Lake Stale district received a large package of seeds while 
I was in his home ami he said it was an annual gift. 

We were annoyed during the nighl by the howling of 
wolves. The Spinster was sure the bears were coming into 
camp to devour us. It was an uncanny sound in the dead of 
night and little wonder we though! of hears when we had 
listened all the early evening to bear stories told by a freighter 
who camped not far away. He says that the hears in the 
Canyon neighborhood are unusually annoying this year and 
that they have torn some of the tourists' wagons to pieces to 
get at the food in the mess boxes. One big grizzly threw his 
weight against a tent and came within an inch of striking the 
occupant with his paw. 

We waited until the permanent camp and hotel stages 
passed our camp this morning so as to avoid the annoyance 
of constantly turning out to give them the road, also to es- 
cape the dust those swift vehicles raise. 

It was extremely interesting to notice the different quality 
of people who made up the several parties. The first to pass 
us belong to a Cody Transportation Company's outfit. They 
were mostly young and middle aged folk. I imagine they 
were teachers and people who earn a comfortable salary doing 
brain work ; such a jolly crowd they were. Everyone of them 



110 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

answered our salute, some saying "Good morning," others 
"Hello" and a few shouted "Hurrah!" 

Our party has adopted "Happy Day'' as our salute, accom- 
panying the words with a wave of the hand. I do wish every- 
one who visits the Park would make it a practice to shout 
the name of his state whenever he passes a set of tourists. 
People from all parts of the world, of course, visit the Yel- 
lowstone and it is interesting to know from what state or 
country the different groups come. 

The Wylie Permanent Camp people came next. They 
seemed to belong to a somewhat higher plane in the world 
of finance than did the Cody folk and there were a number 
of elderly people and children in these neat three seated 
carryalls. They were not so jolly as the first crowd, still, on 
the whole, they were very good natured, with the exception 
of a few loads who came later. My! but those late comers 
were surly. When we shouted our "Happy Day" they made 
no reply and looked as if it were anything but a happy day 
for them. I presume they were the dyspeptics and the folks 
who hate to get up early. 

The hotel conveyances came last of all, rilled with men 
wearing the white park duster and panama hats, and ladies 
heavily veiled to protect their complexions. Some of these 
hotel people waved back at us, others smiled and nodded, 
while still others ignored our greeting and only stared as 
much as to say, "Who are you, anyway?" 

I admit there is a little excuse for surliness this year be- 
cause the weather conditions are so different from what 
tourists usually expect at this time of year and they have not 
come comfortably dressed. The mornings, especially, are so 
very cold that the unprepared shiver in their light summer 
clothing. If they all had heavy sweater coats like ours they 
would feel comfortable these delightful mornings and even- 
ings. 

I had a chat with a lady who stays at the hotels and trav- 
els in a private conveyance. She stopped to inquire how we 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE HARK 117 

were touring the Park, she was extremely interested in 
our six-week horseback ride, but couldn't see how any lady 
could endure living in a tent. ••And." she added, by way of 
compliment, "yon look as if you were used to better things, 
too." When I told her how L was enjoying the Park, she 
replied thai she was greatly disappointed. "Why, dear me," 
she sighed, "just sec how uncomfortable one has to he on 
these dusty roads just to see a little hole in the ground with 
a little hoi water shooting out of it, or the water falls, wheu 
one can go ii» Niagara iu a comfortable state room. There is 
such a sameness to it all.'' she continued. "Now, 1 supposed 
1 should he seeing something differenl and interesting con- 
stantly withoul all the long, dusty rides between places. 1 
thought the park fairly teemed with graceful fawn and an- 
telope and other animals, and truly. I see more animals right 
at home in our city park, you know." 

I understand now as I never did before why so many people 
are disappointed when they come here. It is because of the 
fact that it is called a park and they come with the expecta- 
tion of seeing a man-made park, similar to those of the cities, 
only on a much larger and vastly grander scale; with the 
curiosities all conveniently grouped, and the animals col- 
lected in large numbers in enclosed corrals. They forget 
that it is merely a districl controlled by the Government and 
preserved as far as possible in its wild and natural state, 
and that the wild animals, native to this territory, are per- 
mitted to roam at will over miles and miles of country, and 
that the greater part of them come down to the mainly travel- 
ed districts only when forced to do so by hunger, when the 
snow gets deep and the grazing poor. 

Such people, as the wealthy lady who spoke to me this 
morning, have no appreciation of the great beauties of nature 
and ought never to undertake the Park trip, but might bet- 
ter spend the summer in some elegant hotel near the sea or 
on the border of some city park. 

It was about nine when we began moving this morning. 



118 



SIX WEEKS ON U0R8EHACK 



About two miles from our last night's camp, and about half 
a mile off the road, we saw the place where Spurgeon let 
General Howard's wagon train down a steep hill by means of 
ropes tied to trees. Some of the marks where the ropes 
burned the tree trunks are still visible. A sign nearby 
calls this place "Spurgeon's Beaver Slide.*' 

I don't imagine the dyspeptics or the thinly clad tourists 
enjoyed the ride this morning along the Yellowstone river, 
but in spite of the chilly air, everyone in our party was in 
excellent humor. The Spinster, because she was anticipating 
three meals and a night in the Grand Canyon Hotel; the Ex- 
dyspeptic because he was feeling so good and was gaining 
health and flesh so rapidly; our Guide, because everybody 
else was glad and it was just the way he liked it; Maud and 




The Concrete Bridge which Spans the Rapidc 
Grsinil Canyon. 



>1" the VelUnvstone in the 



the Handy Man because — well, just because they wen- they. 
and the rest of us, because we were anticipating a great half 
day of sight seeing. 

The Ex-dyspeptic rode by my side until we reached the 
beautiful concrete bridge which spans the Yellowstone at 
the head of the rapids above the Upper Falls. He told me 



TUROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 119 

some interesting experiences in his business life and was 
really entertaining. When we arrived at the bridge the 
Brooklynite rode up to me and asked, "Miss Chester, are 
you expecting to visit all the points mentioned in Hayne's 
Guide from which one can get a good view of the Canyon ? " 
1 replied that 1 hoped to visit Artist Point at least. "Then 
may 1 act as your guide?" he asked. "I thought this was 
your first visit t<> tin- Park," interrupted my companion. "It 
is.'* replied the Brooklynite, "but 1 have made a thorough 
study of the Canyon with the help of the guide books and the 
maps and can go blindfolded t<» any of the points mentioned." 
The Ex-dyspeptic muttered "No doubt," tipped his hat, and 
rod'' off like an offended school boy. "I suppose it is mean 
of me to rob him of his companion," said the Brooklynite, 
''but he isn't playing fail-; the rest of us never get a ghost 
of a chance when we are on the road." "That's because you 
don't take it," 1 said. 

We turned int o t he camping grounds just below the Bridge 
and as soon as the tents were up Maud and the Spinster put 
on their good skirls and silk waists and went over to the 
hotel for lunch; the Ex-dyspeptic and the Handy Man ac- 
companied them. The rest of us had lunch in camp and made 
plans for the afternoon. Our Guide decided to stop in camp 
to protect the mess box from the ravages of bears; Professor 
and Mrs. White planned to stroll leisurely to Artist Point, 
and the Brooklynite and I said we'd start out on our pontes 
and spend the entire afternoon sight seeing. 

Such a glorious afternoon it has been, too, but I am just 
too tired tonight to tell you about it, so Mamsey darling, 
good night. Violet. 



Camp Washburn, Tues., Aug. 13. 

Yesterday before the Brooklynite and I started out to see 

the Canyon we rode over to the hotel to inquire for mail, and 

again everyone in our party was disappointed. I cannot 

understand it at all. The two Eastern men were looking for 



120 



SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 



important business communications and I feel sure, Mother, 
that von have not neglected me. The New Yorker sent a 
telegram to his partner and received a reply that nighl sav- 
ing that letters had been sent to the Yellowstone Lake hotel 
anl also to the Grand hotel so I am not worrying about you, 
and attribute the non-delivery of mail to a laxness somewhere 
in the Park postal service. Possibly we did not get here as 
soon as expected and our letters have all been forwarded to 
the Old Faithful hotel. 

The Brooklynite and I were on our way to Artist Point 
when we noticed a path leading into the timber; we followed 
it till it began to lead down a steep hill; them we tied out- 
ponies to trees and climbed down over stumps and fallen 
tree trunks until we were in a position just in front of the 
Upper Falls. It afforded us a full view of the Falls and gave 
us some excellent photographs, unless they are spoiled in 
the process of developing. 



Hte^iR 








*% 




^H 




m ' A^H 



Upper Kails in Grand Canyon. 



The Upper Falls are said to have a perpendicular drop of 
one hundred twelve feet. When the water strikes the rocks 
below it shoots out in great columns and throws its spray 



■UHiuLlill YELLOWSTONE /'ARK 



121 



back against the wall where the drops collect, forming tiny 
rivulets which How back into the Yellowstone. I noticed 
the rich green tinting of the Canyon wall and thought it was 
the color of the rock but, upon looking closer, we found that 
the color is a thick moss. 

Our next stop was Artist Point, the place from which the 
artist Moran painted the celebrated picture now hanging in 
the Capitol at Washington. Surely, no artist ever exag- 
gerated the beauty of Grand Canyon as it is seen either from 
the Artist Point or from Point Lookout opposite, both of 
which are about twelve hundred feel above the bed of the 
river. 




sat out 01 



one of the rock-needles 
Great Falls. 



i ml feasted my eyes on ti.e 



We left the platform upon which a group of tourists were 
standing chatting, and climbed out upon the rock needles 
jutting up from the centre of the Canyon. It w r as a slippery 
and perilous climb but was worth the effort. 



122 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



You know, Mother, bow it used to annoy me to have peo- 
ple whisper or talk to me when 1 listened to exquisite music, 
well, it is the same when I look at beautiful pictures; that 
is why I was glad when it was decided that the Brooklynite 
was to be my sole companion yesterday for the afternoon. 
He seems to feel intuitively just how such things make me 
feel and how foolishly sensitive I am to impressions and 
inspiration. 

I sat on that needle and feasted and feasted my eyes on 
first the picture as a whole; the deep narrow gorge with its 
great rock walls and its needles of rock here and there stand- 
ing out alone and pointing heavenward ; the foaming nile 




The Great Falls in Graml Canyon. 



j/reen stream rushing wildly through its narrow bed. and 
(he magnificent Great Falls at the west end, everlastingly 
taking their awful plunge of more than three hundred feet 
(o the seething waters below. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 123 

Then I studied the various colorings; the yellows, the 
browns, the reds and the greens. I had always supposed the 
painted and tinted pictures of the Canyon to be greatly ex- 
aggerated in their details, but no artist can possibly ex- 
aggerate or even fully express the beauty of that picture as 
it looked to me yesterday. It is indelibly stamped on my 
mind to be recalled in the years to come, at my beckoning. 
for more soul feasts. 

Finally 1 breathed a deep sigh and reached for my camera 
which was hanging from my companion's shoulder. He took 
my hand and pressing it. softly said, "How you do love the 
beautiful, dear." 

And, .Mother, that, too, was only a natural part of the great 
picture; merely the utterance of one soul in tune with an- 
other. 

As we were stepping off the platform we heard a young wo- 
man say, "Pshaw, it isn't half as pretty as the pictures." My 
companion said aside to me, "That's because she has an as- 
tigmatism in her mental vision." 

We viewed the Canyon from Points Lookout and Inspira- 
tion as well as from the plal form at the foot of the long rliglit 
of steps which lead down to a point just over the Falls. My, 
but my knees did ache from going down those steps. We took 
the steep path when we returned and found it much easier 
than the regularly spaced steps. Then we followed the path 
which leads from Point Lookout down to the big Red Rock 
and here we had the best view of the Great Falls. 

I was remarking while we were on the lied Rock trail that 
I felt ashamed to meet so many elegantly dressed ladies 
while I was wearing such a spotted khaki skirt, My com- 
panion pointed to two ladies ahead of us and said. "I am 
sure you show better judgment to wear a soiled short skirt 
for such rough climbing than do those ladies in their silk 
petticoats, high heeled shoes and white kid gloves." 

When we got through sight seeing it was half past five 
and I said, "I must hurry back to camp now to help our 



124 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



Gaiide with the dinner. "Indeed you'll not go back to camp 
now/" said the Brooklynite. "I arranged the dinner affair 
This morning. We all dine in the beautiful new Grand Can- 
yon Hotel this evening and it is my treat." "But 1 cannot go 
into that swell dining room looking as I do," 1 cried. "The 
other ladies all put on their good skirts and waists this noon 
and I'd disgrace the party.'' He argued that his corduroys 
looked almost as bad as my skirt, and they did, bul from his 
waist up he looked very neat, while I — well, I was a sight. 
Really, Mother, I never looked so untidy and homely in my 
life before, and I hope I shall never look so bad again. There 
wasn't time to go back to camp to change clothes so I begged 




"Canyon Hotel is the newest .-mil largest hotel in the Park." 

my companion to go on to the hotel without me, but he said, 
"Miss Violet, this is the first half day you have given me. 
It has been a supremely happy one for me; surely you will 
not spoil it because of such a non essential as dress. 

Of course, I yielded, but almost backed out again when we 
entered the magnificent building. It is the newest and larg- 
est hotel in the Park and is very modern and beautiful in ev- 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK V2b 

erv way, as one might expect of a building which cost three 
fourths of a million dollars aud which accomodates live hun- 
dred guests at a time. The cozy foyer, immense dining 
room and spacious lounge are very novel in their style of 
architecture and are elegantly furnished, as also are the tea 
rooms, the (•Hire and the sleeping rooms. 

We asked the clerk if we would be permitted to sit at 
table with the guests in our dirty attire. Lie laughed and 
said, "Sure you can.'* Then I asked the way to a dressing 
room where I might comb my hair. I found everything 
scrupulously neat and everything necessary for the making 
of a toilet excepting a comb. I was in a dilemma. My hair 
was tousled and most untidy and I hadn't even a sidecomb 
which I might use. I never wear them when I ride because 
they jolt out and get lost. Fortunately I had my purse so 
I rang for a bell boy and gave him a quarter for the use of 
his dirty little pocket comb. 

Our Spinster looked very refreshed after her bath and 
shampoo and I thought it very sweet of her to say, in reply 
to my apology, "Of course I'll sit at the same table with you, 
you really look pretty with your hair coiled loosely like that." 

I thought I was going to feel chagrined to enter that din- 
ing room in my camp clothes, but I really enjoyed the nov- 
elty of being the only one of one hundred and twenty-five 
guests in a khaki riding skirt and a flannel shirt while 
most of the ladies were in full dinner dress. Maud whispered 
"Never mind, Vi., no one is noticing you ; they have eyes for 
nothing but those magnificent diamonds on the fat woman 
in pink at the centre table." 

We enjoyed our dinner very much. Camp meals taste good 
when one is miles from civilization and feels hungry, but it 
did seem good to sit once more at a table covered with spot- 
less linen, and to eat from dainty china. If we had had a 
less surly waitress we should have enjoyed the dinner even 
more. She was not a reader of faces and I suppose she 
thought a party escorted by a man in dirty corduroys and 



126 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

wearing a negligee shirt and hunter's jacket could or would 
not be generous with tips and she was angry when the man- 
ager seated us at her table. She slammed the dishes and hur- 
ried us through the courses till the Brooklynite called her 
to task for it. 

We were supposed to be supplied with linger bow Is after 
the ice and the demitasse, but the waitress evidently thought 
Ave did not know how to use them and did not come back to 
the dining room after serving the coffee. Each of the East- 
ern men took a silver dollar from his pocket and Professor, 
our Guide and the Handy Man, each a half dollar. We wait- 
ed several minutes for the surly girl to come for her tip, but 
she didn't return and her lack of judgment and courtesy cost 
her three dollars and a half. 

All save our Guide and the Brooklynite and I had spent 
the greater part of the afternoon in tin 1 hotel and were ready 
to go back to camp; excepting the Spinster, who, of course, 
purposed to spend the night at the hotel. My afternoon com- 
panion suggested that I stay with him to see the bears which 
were in the habit of coming every night short ly before eight to 
eat the scraps and to lick the cans thrown out by the kitchen 
helpers. While we were waiting we visited the art room, 
where there were all sorts of curios and souvenirs for sale. 
There was a beautiful cameo brooch which I did want so 
badly for you, Mother dear, but when I priced it T found it 
way beyond the reach of my purse. When my companion 
found that I wasn't going to purchase it he took it. I pre- 
sume it is for his mother, of whom he seems to be passionate- 
ly fond, or, perhaps, it may be for a sweetheart. 

The Art Room contained a very beautiful collect ion of Na- 
vajo rugs. I think I never saw one anywhere which T admir- 
ed as I did a certain small one here in black and grays. It 
was so rich and without the brilliant colors so often seen 
in these Mexican rugs. 1 didn't even dare to price the rug 
because T knew it would cost dollars more than I had to 
spend. Just as we were about the leave the art room my com- 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 127 

panion priced it, handed the sales lady some traveler's checks 
and ordered the rug delivered at our camp within an hour. 

Mother mine, what do you suppose he wanted that Navajo 
for? You'd never guess. After 1 had gone to my tent to 
write the letter 1 wrote last night, our Guide came in and 
presented the costly rug to me in behalf of the Rocky Moun- 
tain Yellowstone Park ratty, in appreciation for biscuits 
and fudge. lie didn't wait a moment for a reply, but hur- 
ried out and left me alone, and 1 — well, woman like, I shed 
a few tears; I haven't the slightest idea why, but L did; then 
I tried to think how it would be best to return thai expensive 
Navajo to the Brooklynite, for, of course, 1 was positive that 
not one eeni did any other member of the parly pay toward 
it. 

It occurred to me that for a bank cashier, on an ordinary 
salary, the Brooklynite had a very greal deal of money to 
spend to be able to firsl treat a party of eighl to dinner at 
one and a quarter a plate and then to be able to purchase 
such a very expensive rug to give to a mere cam]) acquaint- 
ance. I fear, Mother, that this time I was fooled in a pair of 
eyes, and I am (), so afraid, that our bank cashier, whom I 
would have trusted anywhere, is an embezzler. It troubled 
me so I couldn't get to sleep for a long time. Before my 
tent mates came in I folded that rug and managed to squeeze 
it into my suit case, though 1 had to roll some of my things 
into a rain coat to make room for it. Of course, I shall re- 
turn it to the bank cashier at my x^ry first opportunity. 

I feared that the rug would be the means of spoiling the 
rest of the trip for me, but this morning with the Ex-dyspep- 
tic at my side and the magnificent mountain scenery to thrill 
the artist within me I completely forgot to be worried about 
the Brooklynite's duplicity, or the necessity of returning the 
handsome Navajo. 

I forgot to say that we saw the bears back of the hotel 
serenely licking the old empty cans. There were three big- 
brown fellows. A soldier walked back and forth in front of 



12* 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



the fence with a gun all ready to aim in cast ihe bears got 

ugly. 

Last night a number of private parties were camped where 
we were and all kept fires burning all night and the men took 
turns guarding the wagons, for the bears were very bold. 
One big fellow stood in the road near our wagon a long 
time with his eye fixed upon our mess box. Another big 




"The big- grizzlies come to lick the cans." 

fellow became troublesome at the Wylie camp and tried to 
attack a soldier who undertook to chase him away, so the 
soldier shot him. They caged another ugly bear and will 
send him to some menagerie. 

I also forgot to tell you that I saw and photographed a 
pretty little deer which was browsing under the trees not far 
from the Falls. It was in the shadow, so my picture will not 
be clear, but it will serve to remind me where T saw him. 

I had so much in my mind that 1 wauled to put on paper 
before T should forget it that T sat down on rav saddle blan- 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 12!) 

ket to scribble before the tents wen' raised and now it is time 
for dinner and niv letter is not finished. Yi. 



Tuesday, continued. Cam]* Washburn. 
Now 1 am going back to the Canyon, which place we left 

at eight to take a side trip to Mt. Washburn, it was a de- 
lightful morning and yet everyone seemed unusually quiet 
and moody. I was still depressed because of the rug epi- 
sode. Maud and the Spinster fell tired and achy because of 
the long climb up and down t hose awful steps above the Falls. 
The Brooklynite, no doubt, was disappointed that I did not 
express any pleasure or gratitude for the nig, and besides, 
he must have noticed my changed attitude toward him; and 
the rest — well, they were all tired or not in the mood for 
tun. 

I remarked about the feeling of depression in camp, which 
was so different from our usual high spirits when we start 
out in the morning, to the Ex-dyspeptic, and he replied, "'To 
be frank with you. Miss Violet, my silence this morning is 
not because of fatigue, but because T still feel grieved that 
you ignored me so completely yesterday after lunch and de- 
voted the entire afternoon alone with our Brooklyn friend. 
You must know. Miss Violet, by this time, that a great deal 
of the pleasure I am deriving from this trip is due to tin- 
fact that you are a member of the party." 

I certainly was surprised to find that our man from New 
York had been choosing me as riding companion for my 
own sake. I thought, of course, that he had chosen to Wde 
with me, since he offended the Spinster, because it Avas the 
most natural thing to do. The Handy Man always took 
position by the side of Maud, and the Brooklynite rode with 
the Spinster and so there was nothing else for the Ex-dyspep- 
tic to do but to ride with me. I frankly told him that he had 
no right to take my company for granted and the only reason 
I had given him so much opportunity to ride with me was 
because of the situation I have just described to you, Mother. 



130 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

If it were not for that rug incident I should certainly show 
my preference for the Brooklynite's company hereafter and 
give the Ex-dyspeptic back to the Spinster, but as it is, I 
shall have to join Maud and make a crowd of company. 
T judge from something Maud said in confidence to me yes- 
terday she thinks it time to close her flirtation with the Handy 
Man anyway. She is longing to get the letters she feels sure 
are waiting for her from a certain other dear friend. 

No one who loves rugged landscapes done in rough, hold 
strokes should fail to take the side trip from the Canyon to 
Mt. Washburn. The panorama, as one looks over the rugged 
hills and irregular ravines, is grand and very different from 
any other bit of scenery in the Park. 

We stopped to lunch at Dunraven Pass. I neglected to 
say that we have been pur-chasing bread from the hotel chefs 
and also from the permanent camp cooks. Much of it has 
not been very fresh, but we were very glad to get it. The price 
is always fifteen cents a loaf. Our Guide also bought some 
fresh meat at the Wylie camp. 

After lunch we again began the climb and another kind 
of landscape lent itself to tin 1 pleasure of the day. 1 re- 
membered that when I first began to study about mountain 
springs in my geography that I pictured the water coming 
out of the mountain side and flowing down in a narrow gully 
to a stream below and I thought that as it did so the tiny 
stream coming out of the mountain fell over rocks and form- 
ed a series of little cascades or water falls. Today, for the 
first time, I saw just such picturesque little spring streams 
with their pretty little cascades. 

The road to Mt. Washburn is not as much used by the 
regular tourists as most of the other roads in the main part 
of the Park, but it must have cost the government a mint of 
money to build it. You will get some idea of how it winds 
when T tell you that Mt. Washburn has an elevation of 10,- 
388 feet, but we travel abonl three and a half miles to <j;i>\ 



TIIIHH all YELLOW STONE I'Ah'K 



131 



lit »iu the base to the summit. The road is very narrow and 
there is a perpendicular drop from the outer edge. 

Tourists arc warned ot the danger of the ascent because of 
the sudden and severe storms which come up on the Moun- 
tain which oiighl scare a nervous horse and cause him to 
hurl his driver over the brink of the narrow road. 

Dainty little forget-me-nots and daisies grow on the moun- 
tain. The view is vast and wild and often large hands of 
elk can be seen in the distance. Last year our Guide saw 
a large number of mountain sheep, hut we were not so 
favored. 

Not \'i\v below the summit we came upon a large patch of 
snow and here we all lined up to have our pictures taken by 




"We all lined up on Mt. Washburn to have our pictures taken on ail 
August snowbank." 

the Spinster, who said she wanted an August snow scene. 
Then Professor started a snow ball battle which put us in 
such good humor that we have been cheerful ever since. 

Often, after tourists have made the difficult ascent, they 
are disappointed to find the view completely obstructed by 
a heavv mist. We were fortunate, the dav was clear and we 



132 



SIX WEEKS ON I/O Its/: HACK 



looked away across the rugged landscape ami recognized 
the Grand Canyon. We even saw Old Faithful playing way 
off in the distance. The Haynes Guide says one can see the 
Tetons from the summit of Mt. Washburn, but there nmsi 
have been a haze 1 in front of that range, for we could no1 
see them. 

On the highesl point of Washburn is a mound of locks 
enclosed within an iron rail, and a pair of elk horns lie on 
the rocks. There is also a jar filled with the visiting cards of 
tourists from almost every state of our country as well ;is 
from many countries of Europe. We thought it would be 




On the Summit of Mt. Washburn. 

interesting to see if, pet-chance, someone whom we knew had 
left a card, but, jnst as we began to read the names, a cold 
wind began to blow so we put the cards back and crouched 
under the wall to eat our lunch of sandwiches and cookies, 
and drank water from the Professor's thermos bottle. 

Clouds gathered and we hurried to gel ready to descend. 
1 noticed that the trees near the summit of the mountain 
were twisted and gnarled and many of them bent toward the 
ground. The west side of their trunks are almost denuded 
of branches and I shuddered at the thought of being caught 
out in a storm of such violence as those which had distorted 
those 1 trees. How the dainty flowers withstand the cold of 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 



133 



ihe nights and the fury of the storms is beyond my 
understanding. 

When we were about half way down, the wind blew a gale 
and we were caughl in the edge of a rain which was deluging 
the top of the mountain. In a minute or two we had passed 
out of the storm area and were riding in the hot August 
sun, while just above, the wind was blowing and the lain 
was beating down in great drops. 

The descent seemed in he easier on the ponies than the 
ascent had been, bill it was hard on the riders. My weight 
was thrown forward on the steep places and strained my mus- 
cles and set my knees to aching so I dismounted and started 
to lead my pony, hut the Brooklynite reached forward for 
DiT bridle rein and 1 had only myself to look out for. 




"We are eamped in a delightful snot at the edge of a pine forest.'' 

We are camped in a most delightful spot. It is not used 
by tourists, because they think there is no water here. Our 
Guide was going on farther, but our Handy Man, who seems 
to know everything about mountains by instinct, said, "Hold 
on, Mack, I believe there is water down in that valley, the 
grass is fine and there is plenty of fuel; just wait here till 



134 six ir/;/; ks ox uomEitACK 

I run down to investigate.'' Sure enough, by following an 
elk trail he came to a little spring hidden among the trees, 
so we pitched camp at the edge of the pines. 

i imagine the woods hack of ns arc full of hears and all 
sorts of animals, hut our Guide says we arc uot in as much 
danger here as we were in the Canyon camp. 

I "in tired, so tired; hut it's a good kind of tired and I 
should not have missed the view from the top of Mr. YVash- 
hurn nor the panorama along the way for dollars and dol- 
lars; hut bed is the place for me now. 

Good nighl . Violet. 



Camp Washburn, Thursday. Aug. L5. 

Rain hound again. It has been showering for two days. 
No one regretted the delay yesterday because we were all 
glad of the opportunity to lie around and rest, hut today 
we are rather restless. It is cold and our dear Handy Man 
has been pulling dead trees into camp for an hour, so the 
men can keep the two tires going. 

Yesterday when the Handy Man went into his tepee to 
nap, Maud and I let the ropes sag and the tepee came down 
upon him. He surmised who played the trick and got even 
with us later. We had been hearing uncanny noises and 
Professor thought he saw a hear when he went to the spring 
for water. We girls were beginning to get quite nervous 
and in good state to he taken in by the return joke. We were 
lying on our cots just at dusk and the Spinster was telling 
all about one of her travel experiences, while the men were 
in Professor's tent playing cards by the lighl of the camp 
fire with a deck our Guide had bought at the Canyon hotel. 

The Spinster's story was interrupted by a low growl. We 
raised up on our elbows and saw a huge, furry something 
moving steadily toward us and growling as it came. Xarur- 
ally our first thought was of bears. Maud screamed, the 
Spinster covered her head with a blanket and I grabbed a 
cam]) stool which stood at the head of my cot and was about 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 135 

to throw it when our bear' turned and quickly left the tent. 
"It's a trick/' I cried, jumping up and reached the door of the 
tent just in time to see the Handy Man throw Professor's 
fUT robe from his shoulders. 

Our poor Spinster was so wrought up that she could not 
sleep last night ami is so pale this morning that the men 
have agreed not to play any more hear tricks. It really was 
a risky thing to do because 1 do believe if there had been a 
gun at hand I should have used it. 

We had a vaudeville performance after Lunch today and 
each of us had a part. We had a jolly hour. Maud took off 
an opera singer, ami the way she trilled and warbled and 
swayed her body was very funny. Professor played some 
airs on the harmonica ami his wife gave a reading, then the 
Brooklynite sang; our Guide told a story, the Handy Man 
darned a jig, the Spinster held an auction sale, 1 told for- 
tunes, and the Ex-dyspeptic read the poem from llaynes' 
Guide about the Devil appropriating the Park for his use 
as an addition to Hell. 

The poem was written by Wm. Helmut h and begins: 

The Devil was sitting in Hades one day, 

In a very disconsolate sort of way. 

Says the Devil to Charon, "Now, what shall I do? 

The world, ir grows worse ami grows wickeder, too, 

What with Portland, Chicago, Frisco, New York, 

I get in my mortals too fast for my fork. 

I haven't the room in these caverns below, 

St. Peter above is rejecting them so." 

Then Charon goes out to explore, finds the Yellowstone 
district and reports it to his master. 

Then the Devil with mortals kept plying his fire, 
Extracting the water around from the mire, 
And boring great holes with a terrible dust, 
Till quite a number appeared near the crust. 
Then he turned on the steam and lo, upward did fly 



130 »S7A WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

Thru rents in the surface, the rocks to the sky. 
Then there came with a rumble from every spot 
Huge volumes of water remarkably hot, 
That had been in the caverns since Lucifer fell, 
Thus immensely enlarging the confines of Hell." 

Camp Mammoth Springs, Yellowstone Park, Sat., Aug. IT. 

Maud snatched my tablet from my lap yesterday, hid it 
so I could not write any more at that time and that accounts 
for the abrupt end. 

The sun came out a little before noon yesterday and we 
ate a hurried lunch, packed our belongings and moved on 
to see Tower Falls, which are about six miles from the camp 
Ave were leaving. 

Near the W. Y. Lunch Station Maud and I, who were 
riding on ahead with the Handy Man, saw a comical bear 
tableau. Some one had camped near the station and in his 
absence a mother bear and her three cubs were making them- 
selves at home in his wagon; the old bear was up in the box 
rooting around among the provisions under the seat; two 
of the babies were on the ground eating some crackers which 
their mother had thrown from the wagon, and a third baity 
was contentedly seated on the wagon tongue watching pro- 
ceedings. It was such a funny picture I wanted to photo- 
graph the interesting group, but we knew how hard it is to 
get provisions in that part of the Park and lost no time in 
chasing the happy family away. 

Words fail me as I try to picture for you the beautiful 
Tower Falls in their rough, unique setting among great rock 
spires of lava formation. A path leads to a natural plat - 
form of rock a short distance from the top of the Falls and 
another, a steep, slippery one, xevy long and narrow, leads 
down to a point below the cataract. This last path is not 
much used because of its difficult and somewhat dangerous 
descent. 

We three youngest members of the parly, with the Prook- 
lynite and the Professor took the long path, and in spite 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 



137 



of the risk and the fatigue, we felt repaid when we stood at 
the base of the greal cataract and had a full view of the 
water as it came tumbling down and sprayed the rock upon 
which we stood. 

Looking - up at Tower Falls as we did they seem fully as 




The Needles Above Tower Falls. 

high as the Great Falls, bnt statistics show them to be only 
about a third as high. They are quite narrow, too, but the 
setting and the surrounding lava formation are different 
from anything else we have seen. 

The climb back to the road was very difficult and we 
found it so hard to breathe that we had to stop every few 
minutes and cling to a rock or an overhanging branch to rest 
and to set our breath. One with a weak heart would run 



138 SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 

a great risk in taking that climb. Once I lost my footing and 
hung by one hand to a jutting rock. I was in great fear lest 
that piece of rock should break off and I'd go slipping down, 
down, down into the mad, foaming water at the foot of the 
cataract. I screamed for help and the Handy Man, who was 
just above me, threw himself flat upon the rock and pulled 
me up. 

When we reached the top we found the rest of the party 
seated on the ground eating wild raspberries and goose- 
berries from the bushes. Then we lunched and once more 
started on our journey. The road runs above and in view 
of the Tower Creek Canyon, which is not so large or so bril- 
liant in coloring as the Grand Canyon, but its great needles 
stand out more picturesquely. 1 stood for a long time near 
the edge of the narrow road, looking down into the magnifi- 
cent abyss. This is one of the side trips no lover of natural 
beauty should fail to take. 

Not far from Tower Falls, in a most lonesome spot, is a 
Soldier Station. 1 fear these poor boys will have even a 
lonelier time this winter than the boys at Snake River. 

We made one little side trip about a mile from the main 
road, for which we were sorry, because we did not think it 
worth the loss of time. The Guide book spoke of a petrified 
forest and we followed a very rough road until we came 
to two stumps; they did not even have any branches. "Un- 
cle Sam's Petrified Forest is a sell," said Maud, and 1 agreed 
with her, still I was interested to know why those two par- 
ticular trees should have turned to stone. 

The road climbed steadily upward through the timber and 
then we came into an open country where a raw wind was 
blowing. We were obliged to go much fan her than we want- 
ed to because we could not sooner find grass for the horses. 
When we finally did find a suitable camping place we were 
shivering with cold. 

While tin 1 men were establishing camp and getting the 
fires started 1 opened cans of soup, vegetables and fruit and 






TUROl all YELLOWSTONE PARK 139 

we were soon enjoying the hot food by the camp fire. While 
we were doing so a soldier rode into camp to search for a 
lantern which had been taken from the station by some pass- 
ing tourist. It seemed a pity to make the young fellow start 
out so late in the cold in search of a dollar lantern, lie said 
he would ride as far as Mammoth Springs and come hack in 
the morning. 

We were so cold thai we lost no lime after the dishes were 
washed in getting between our warm blankets. 

This morning, while we were at our early breakfast, we 
saw two beautiful, graceful antelope gamboling in the grass 
only a few rods from our camp. 

The drive ti» Mammoth Springs was down hill nearly all 
the way so we made excellent time. We rode through an 
open country which was in strong contrasl to the rugged 
mountain scenery the other side of Mt. Washburn. It is this 
varying scenery which keeps my interest aroused. There 
is not the least monotony in the Park, at least so it seems 
to me. though our Spinster, who has not trained her eye t< 
the varying beauties of nature, says, "The between places i I 
suppose she means the places between hotels) are awfully 
boring, don'1 you knaw.'' 

We stopped to look at the Undine Falls, not far from the 
Mammoth Springs. There are two cascades, one about forty 
feet high and the other only about half as high. 

Some tourists were picking raspberries which were very 
plentiful in this vicinity. They looked tempting, but we 
preferred to spend our time sight seeing, so long as we had 
canned fruits and jam, which could take the place of the fresh 
berries. 

Just after we crossed the long steel trestle bridge that 
spans the Gardiner River we saw the little herd of buffaloes 
which are kept corraled near the Springs. Two powerful 
fellows came close to the wire fence and turned their giant 
heads from side to side, looking up at us in comical fashion. 
Maud said, "The giants are making goo-goo eyes at you, Vi." 



140 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

"Well," I replied, "it is the first time anyone lias cast loving 
glances at me, then, for you have up till now been the targel 
for all such glances, especially in the soldier camps/ 

The bird's eye view one gets of Mammoth Springs, while 
descending the hill which leads down to that place is very 
pretty, and as one enters the Springs it seems like going 
into a little city. There are well eared for streets and lawns, 
a number of pretty bungalows, and several more pretentious 
houses; most of them are the residences of officers, for this 
is known as Fort Yellowstone, in army circles. 1 am told 
that there are about two hundred cavalrymen located here. 
The commanding officer is the superintendent of the Park 
but is under the supervision of the Secretary of the Interior. 

The headquarters of the U. S. Commissioner is also here, 
as also are the Weather Bureau and the Engineer's Office. 
There are two stores whose main stock consists of Park sou- 
venirs and views I The postal station is in one of the stores i. 
and a handsome hospital and a church are in construction. 
The hotel is a large, dingy looking building, whose interior 
looks quite as passe as does its exterior. 

We arrived at a lively time, for about two hundred of the 
Sheridan infantrymen, who are taking a practice march 
through the Park, are here at Fort Yellowstone. These Main- 
moth Springs soldiers are giving the visitors a good time, and 
while we were driving into town a large band was giving a 
concert out on the public square. We stopped to listen, of 
course, and felt that we were having a big treat ; it has been 
so long since we have heard any music of that sort. 

Our next move was to go to the postoffice to inquire for 
mail. There was but one letter and that was from Lander 
for our Guide. We had thought the reason that we did not 
gel mail from the hotel postal stations was because the clerks 
there 1 made a practice of immediately forwarding all mail ad- 
dressed to any save their own guests, but we cannot account 
for our disappointment at the store postoffiees. The fact. 
however, that none of us gets letters from the Fast keeps us 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 14L 

nil from worrying for we reason that the same cause has de- 
layed the delivery of all mail alike. 

Our hoists were iu such prime condition that we went on 
to Gardiner, Montana, a distance of five miles, to purchase 
provisions and oais. What a disappointment that town was 
io usl It consists of a few residences, a number of good 
stores, some inferior cafes and hotels, and a large number 
of saloons and billiard halls. The place impresses one as 
being a very tough little supply town for private parties of 
Park tourists. We were not sorry that we visited Gardiner, 
though, for we not only found excellent brands of canned 
goods, bacon, syrups and the like, at very moderate cost, but 
also souvenirs at a much lower figure than in the Park, es- 
pecially the sp.x.ns and views. 

We all invested iu new horsehide gloves, Professor bought 
boots, and nearly all <»(' the men got new trousers. I tried 
to find a riding skirt to take the place of my disreputable 
khaki, but the few they had in stock were far too large in 
every way. 

Our Guide treated the party to a cafe luncheon. It was 
fairly good, but the Hies were more numerous than in camp. 

Gardiner marks the farthest point on our route and we 
are now on our return trip. I think the five miles back to 
Mammoth Springs is the only piece of road which we retrace 
until we get back to the Thumb, so there will be something 
new to see for several days yet. 

The guard at the imposing arch, dedicated by Colonel 
Roosevelt in 1903, permitted Professor to pass through, but 
all heavy wagons had to go around. We horseback riders 
did not go under the arch either, because when we left Fort 
Yellowstone a soldier compelled us to take the bridle path, 
which wound around a hill and made the distance to Gar- 
diner about two miles longer than the wagon road. The 
ride was a pretty one, but we did not get as good a view of 
the Gardiner canyon as those who travel in wagons or stages. 



142 



SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 



diner and there were baity eagles in the big nest, which is ou 
top of the rock needle. 

The river which flows through the Gardiner Canyon con- 
tains boiling places right in the cold water. Nature cer- 
tainly does play some strange tricks in the 3312 square miles 
which are embraced in the Yellowstone National Park. 

There is no fuel in the immediate vicinity for a camp fire 
and my fingers are cold, so I will continue this tomorrow. 




"The guard at the Imposing arch dedicated by Col. Koosevelt would 
out let us pass through." 

Mammoth Springs Camp, Sunday. 

We are camped not far from the fool of Hansen's Peak 
and jnst beyond the road which turns down to the Buffalo 
Corral. It is the filthiest, most unsatisfactory camping place 
we have yet found. There is very little fmd in the neighbor- 
hood, no good grass for the ponies, and the ground smells 
like a long used pasture. The hole made for the old cans 
and garbage has a vile odor and the water is not good. 



Til Ron; II YELLOWSTONE PARK 148 

We are in rather close quarters, too. A Lauder minister 
with his family camped at our right, a party from Idaho at 
our left, and two parties are located just across the road. 
It is not pleasant to touch elbows with neighbors when one 
is camping. 

Our Handy Man and the Brooklynite went over to a stable 
to get hay with which to carpel our tent, because the ground 
was so filthy. It was the Brooklynite's suggestion; he is 
always so t houghl t'ul. 

There is a great deal to be seen here; consequently we 
were very much disappointed to find it showering when we 
got up this morning, hut we put on our best clothes and 
started out after breakfast to attend church. We asked an 
officer whom we met to direct us to the place of worship. He 
laughed and replied, "We do not often worship here at the 
Springs, occasionally a Catholic Priest visits the fort, but 
we do not have regular services of any kind at present, in 
fact our Chaplain is out on the Pacific roast." 

Mother mine, isn't that a sad state of affairs in a camp 
where there are two hundred young men with souls? II 
strikes me if some of the men in authority would spend a 
part of the time and influence they are now expending in 
their efforts to restore the canteen on looking out for the mor- 
al welfare of the great army of men who are in their keeping 
the drink question would adjust itself. 

Since there was no church which we could go to, we took 
a stroll through the town and found the stores doing busi- 
ness the same as on week days. 

After we had lunch we went down to see the baby buffalo. 
It looks just like any ordinary shaggy haired calf. It "rained 
hard while we were looking at the buffalo, so we went back 
to camp and wrote letters and read some of our old maga- 
zines. 

We shall do the Terrace tomorrow, rain or shine, so my 
next letter will be more interesting . I do wish I might have 
had some word from you, Mother mine. Vi. 



144 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

Mammoth Springs, Monday. 

Regardless of the showers which fell at intervals all day, 
we spent three hours exploring the beautiful terraces, which 
are arranged one above the other at quite regular intervals. 
The water issues at different levels and the calcareous de- 
posit forms tub-like piles, so arranged that the overflow from 
the higher ones falls into those beneath. These basins are of 
various depths and sizes and many of them are of niosl ex- 
quisite tints; pale green, salmon pink, lemon, orange and 
terra cotta. The water has disappeared from several of the 
terraces and these are a dead white. I had supposed that tin- 
coloring was clue to the mineral deposits in the water, but 
the Brooklynite, who is our camp geologist, says that the col- 
or is given by the algus, a vegetable growth which thrives 
in warm water. "You know,'' he said, "that if the colors were 
due to mineral deposit, as you suppose, they would remain 
even after the water ceased flowing and would not be de- 
stroyed or changed by a decreased temperature. This is not 
the case, for you observe that wherever there is no water, 
there is also an absence of the pretty tints. You would no- 
tice, too, if you should visit the Terraces in the winter, an 
absence of color wherever the temperature of the water had 
become greatly cooled. 

Many geologists claim that the Terraces are gradually dy- 
ing because the thermal energy of this region is diminish- 
ing. If these hot springs cease to flow it would be a great 
pity and Yellowstone Park would lose one of its greatest 
attractions. 

We asked our geologist the cause of hot water all through 
the Park and he said it is heated by the masses of rock which 
have not yet cooled below the zone of percolating water. He 
called our attention to the richer greens, reds, ami browns 
of the hotter water as compared with the rust color of the 
cooler water ami said it is due to the fact that the tiny, vel- 
vety algae thrive more plentifully in the hotter water. 

While Ave were searching for the Devil's Kitchen, which is 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 145 

mentioned in our books, we met an army officer who very 
kindly offered to act as our guide. We all feel that we are 
indebted to him for one of the most instructive hours we 
have spent in the Park. He lias a handsome face, a foreign 
accenl to his speech (Swiss, 1 think) and a very courteous 
manner. He also possesses a lair knowledge of plants and 
minerals. 

Our Officer Guide dismounted and took t he lead to show us 
the way. .Maud walked by his side and patted the head of 
his handsome bay steed, the rest of us following till we came 
to a queer little slit in the ground. The rain was beginning 
again and our new Guide said, "We are just in time to lake 
refuge in the Devil's Kitchen and I trust thai gentleman is 
not at home." 

We descended about thirty feet on rough wooden steps. 
The air was hot and damp and gave one a very uncomfortable 
feeling. "Whew!" said Maud, -'It smells as if the Old Boy's 
laundress were at work. 

A narrow passage-way leads both in front of and hack of 
the stairway for a short distance, hut there was nothing of in- 
terest to he seen by the light of the candle which the officer 
had lighted. A hat flew above our heads and Maud whispered 
''Maybe that's the Old Boy himself. I'm going to get out of 
here before he assumes his normal size and forks me in." 
She ran up the stairs and the rest of us followed, very glad 
to be able once more to breathe comfortably. 

Only a few steps from the Kitchen I paused to investi- 
gate a hole at the base of a large tree which was emitting a 
disagreeable gas. The Officer came back to tell me that he 
thought the air coming up through that hole must contain 
a large per cent of carbon, because it killed birds, but did 
not harm vegetation in the least. 

When we started away from the vile-smelling hole togeth- 
er, the Officer's horse rubbed my shoulder with his nose and 
I spoke to him and rubbed his head. "You love horses?" 
asked the officer. I answered that I loved the horse above all 



146 SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 

other animals. "So do I,'' he replied. "Don't you want t<> 
ride my Major?" I replied that 1 would be proud to do so. 
He helped me mount and complimented the ease with which 
I did so. Maud and the Spinster were green with envy and 
I enjoyed the novelty of, for the first time, receiving the at- 
tentions of an army officer. 

Our Guide next pointed out the Stygian Cave, in which 
lay a number of dead birds and a dead rabbit. Then he took 
us to Bath Lake, in which tourists may bathe, provided they 
are properly dressed. This lake has no visible outlet and 
the mysterious thing about it is that its water maintains an 
even temperature all the year round. 

Not far from Bath Lake is the beautiful Orange Geyser. 
Its basin is an oblong mound of a pretty orange tint. The 
mound is about twenty feet high and thirty feet in diameter, 
and water bubbles from it constantly. 

Our guide next called our attention to the Narrow Gauge 
Terrace, a narrow bridge about three hundred feet long, very 
brilliantly tinted and fairly alive with tiny geysers. 

"This way to Soda Spring for a drink; my treat !" shouted 
the Officer. We all drank the water, but do not think we'd 
care to have our drinking water always flavored so strongly 
with soda. 

We left the Terraces and went down to take a closer look 
at the Devil's Thumb and Liberty Cap, both of which are 
tall hot springs cones and stand out alone like sentinels 
guarding the Terrace above. Liberty Tap is fifty-two feet 
high. 

Our kind Officer Guide left us here, expressing the wish 
that Ave might meet again. The Brooklynite, who had been 
keeping well to the rear of our little procession, came for- 
ward when the officer left and said to me aside, "Miss Ches- 
ter, now that that fascinating uniformed gentleman has torn 
himself away, will you show me a favor? There is a curios- 
ity back here a few rods which T want to show you." 

I followed him to a pretty little spring down in a re.-ess 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE RARK 



147 



of one of the terraces; the sign above it read, "Cupid's Cave." 
"Stand right here a moment, please," said the teasing Brook- 
lynite. "I have given little Cupid a specially sharp dart and 
he is an excellent marksman." 1 laughed ;it his boyishness 
and ran away to join Professor and Mrs. White. 

Let me see, did I mention the fact that both the Spinster 
and the Ex-dyspeptic stayed at the hotel last night because 
our camp is so damp? They said it was fearfully dull at the 
Hotel all evening because the greater number of guests at- 
tended the big mask ball which the soldiers gave in honor 




"Liberty Cap stand* 
the Fort beyond." 



like n seutinel guarding the Terraces :il>ov< 



of the visiting Sheridan Troops. The Spinster did not at- 
tend because she did not have 1 an evening gown. Maud and 
I are sorry we did not know of the ball. We would have 
coaxed our Handy Man to take us. We heard today that 
there were nearly a thousand people in the great Canteen, 
where the ball was given. Maud could have cried when she 
learned of the fun she missed. 

It showered again after lunch, but we made another trip to 
the Terraces and this time we noticed a deep rumbling noise 



US 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



in several places coming from under the crust, and in one 
place we felt a distinct vibration. 

It is warmer and everyone is in excellent spirits except ih«' 
Brooklynite, who seems rather down hearted. The Spinster 
and our New York friend are lodging at home tonighl i<> 
be ready for an early start in the morning. 

I shall leave this letter at the office tomorrow and hope it 
will find you all in as good health and spirits as it leaves 
me. Love to all, 

Violet. 




"He took me to Cupid's Cave, a spriujt' •" the reeess of a ternice." 

P.- S. The officer who played guide for us told Die that 
there really is a district containing petrified trees and that 
we did not see the so-called Petrified Forest at all. We missed 
the trail because the sign board was either destroyed or 
else placed too far from the road to be seen from that point. 
We should have turned to the right not far from the soldier 
station near Tower Falls. The Officer said it was a pity 
we did not take that road as the view from there is grand. 
T hope by the time I visit the Yellowstone again that the 
Park Superintendent will have a sign board placed near 
the main road so we can tell where we ought to turn oil'. 

V. C. 



Til nor (ill YELLOWSTONE PARK 149 

Camp Xorris, Tuesday, Aug. 20, 1912. 

Everyone was glad t<> sec the sun shining this morning 
and to be able to leave the dirty camp at Mammoth Springs. 
We stopped a1 the stores and a1 the Hotel for bread, but could 
nol gel a single Loaf; we did gel some, however, at the Wylie 
Lunch Station at Willow Springs and I was once more saved 
the necessity of baking biscuits. 

We had an easy climb for three miles from the Springs to 
the Hoodoos. This is the wildest, weinlesi mile square I 
have semi. It Looks as if Dame Nature had emptied an im- 
mense load of while lock from her apron into a hollow and 
let it lie in a tumbled heap just as it had fallen. Scientists 
think that the waters of underground hot springs carried the 
earthy formation, in solution, ami deposited it down the 
valley for a couple of miles. Some of the same deposit is 
found along the < Gardiner River. ( >f course, the act ion of the 
water Left honey-combed rones under the surface of the 
ground and, eventually, the surface caved in and the great 
mass of fractured rock fell into the caverns thus made. 

The road makes a sudden turn among the Hoodoos and 
passes between greal columns of grayish while stone, thus 
forming the Silver Gate. I was a trifle disappointed in the 
Silver Gate, because I had expected to see the rocks glisten- 
ing in the sun like silver and supposed the rock contained 
quantities of iron or mica, or some other bright mineral. 
This rock in the Hoodoo region, however, looks more like a 
dull sandstone and I do not think it contains any metal. 

The Golden Gate, a little farther on, made up for the dis- 
appointment I had in the Silver Gate. My! but that is a 
beautiful spot. It is a narrow rugged pass between Bunsen's 
Peak and the southern extremity of Terrace Mountain. The 
rock walls which must be about two hundred feet high are 
covered with a moss which gives it the color suggesting gold 
to the man who named the gateway. To me it suggested 
burnished brass rather than gold because of the red and 
green tints which mingle on the wall. 



150 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



At the base of the highest wall a roguish creek tumbles 
over little terraces and forms the delightful Rustic Falls, 
then goes babbling and bubbling down the Glen and disap- 
pears under an accumulation of rock which was left by t In- 
road constructors. Our guide books say that the roadway 
and the viaduct here in the Golden Gate Canyon is the most 
difficult and expensive bit of road in the Park. 

As we passed through the Golden Gate we came unexpect- 




•Tlir Golden Gate. 



edly upon a broad prairie; to our right rose the highest 
mountain peak of the Park, the Electric. The Brooklynite 
suggested that we were so near to the peak it would be pleas- 
ant to stop long enough to climb to the top. Our Guide 
laughed and informed us that the mountain which looks so 
near is about eight miles from the road. When asked why 
the peak is so named he replied that it is because it contains 
such quantities of magnetic ore that the surveyors could not 
use their instruments on the mountains. I'd hate to be on 
that mountain during an electric storm. 

This prairie, through which we passed after coming 
through the Golden Gate, is called Swan Lake Rasin and we 
expected to sec quite a large body of water with beautiful 



THKOLLill YELLOWSTONE PARK 



151 



white swans swimming on its surface, when we should reach 
Swan Lake, but saw, instead, just a big pool in a swamp with 
a few ducks swimming on its surface. A crew of men was 
laying large pipes along the road, but we could not ascertain 
the purpose of the work, for some of the men said the pipes 
were for drainage and others said they were for irrigating 
purposes. 

The Willow Park, named in the guides, is merely a patch 




The <.,.l.l<-ii «.:■<< 



it l0:t»O A. M. 



of scrub willows and here a 1 >i*», black bear ran across the road 
a few rods ahead of us. At this point a large party of tour- 
ists passed us on their way to the Wylie Lunch Station. We 
gave our usual Happy Day salute and one man said, "Are 
you happy? We are cold, but we are seeing the Park." Some 
of the ladies of the party looked as if they would rather be 
seeing the four walls of their living rooms. 

Farther on we saw a number of beaver dams, but not a 
beaver in sight. 

When we had traveled about ten miles from Mammoth 
Springs we reached Apollinaris Spring and stopped here to 
lunch and to rest the ponies. From this spring Aoavs really 



152 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

genuine Apollinaris water; none of the bottled and medicated 
Jake or river water one is apt to purchase, but the genuine 

article direct from Mother Earth, and it is the most deli- 
cious and refreshing water I have ever tasted. Professor 
rilled his thermos bottle with it and how we wished we could 
take a barrel of it with us to use when we cam]) in the 
Geyser Basins where the water is so warm. 

We came across another party here at the Apollinaris 
Spring who had started from Lander. They were a group 
of students who had been doing field work all summer under 
the tutorage of their professor in the vicinity of Lander. 
They were feeling grieved because their guide was hurrying 
them too much and had insisted upon moving camp during 
the rains, in consequence of which the bedding got wet and 
one of their number, their chaperon, was suffering with rheu- 
matism. We appreciate our amiable guide more than ever 
now. 

I watched eagerly for a first sight of the Obsidian (Mil! 
which the guide book described as "Vertical columns of pen- 
tagonal shaped blocks of obsidian, rising two hundred and 
fifty feet from the road and presenting a glistening, mirror- 
like effect, and at its base the only glass roadway in the 
world." Little wonder that after reading that description we 
expected to see a great wall of glass glistening in the sun 
and a stretch of slippery volcanic glass road. 

What we did see was a high cliff seamed with the obsidian, 
some a shiny jet black and others a pretty mottled brown. 
Large pieces of the obsidian lay by the roadside and we each 
took some and expect to have buttons and hatpins made of 
it. As for the road it was covered with such a thick layer of 
earth that I could not see any difference between that and 
any other dirt road. The cliff, with its glass senilis was in- 
teresting to me, if it was a bit disappointing. 

One can imagine how difficult it must have been to build 
a road through this obsidian format ion when he reads thai 
blasting powder had no effect upon it and that the road men 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 153 

had to build huge tires around the blocks of glass and, when 
they were heated, suddenly cool them by throwing cold wa- 
ter upon them, thus shattering the Mocks into small frag- 
ments* 

The Indians like obsidian better for arrow heads than 
flint and so this became a famous resort for all The Rocky 
Mountain tribes; in fact, il used to he considered neutral 
ground the same as the Pipestone district in Minnesota. 

One of the m-isi weird and fascinating freaks we saw today 
is the Roaring Mountain. The mountain makes a noise like 
the exhaust pipe of some gianl steam engine and columns of 
steam escape from several places in its ash-gray side. At 
its base a number of dead trees stand in a pool which is fed 
by little rivulets of sulphur water from the mountain. I 
think those trees must have grown there before the hot 
springs broke through the mountain. 

A short ride beyond Roaring Mountain brought us to Twin 
Lakes. These twin lakes are two large pools separated by 
a narrow strip of land. I judge they are about eighty rods 
wide and a half mile long. The first is a brighl green and 
the second is an ultramarine blue. Our geologist explains the 
coloring of the pools in this way: "Pool colorings were for- 
merly supposed to be due to minerals in tin- water or in the 
surrounding country which the water drained, but this is 
not true. Much of the color is due to the reflection of light 
rays influenced by the nature and color of the pool linings 
and the surroundings. Now note this first pool is quite shal- 
low and its bed has a thick bed of green moss all around the 
outer edge, the pool is also closely surrounded by trees; 
hence the green of its water. This second pool, on the other 
hand, has an open space near its bank, it has very little moss 
and is deeper than the first pool, hence its deep blue tint." 

We came next to the Frying Pan, a queer little basin about 
fifteen feet across and fuming and fussing because disturbed 
by the little hot springs it contained. 

A young man who is seeing the Park on foot passed us. 



154 SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 

He sleeps iu the hotel and permanent camp stables and gets 
food when and where he can. Maud called him "The Biped 
Moving' Camp" and he certainly was a comical sight. On 
his back he had strapped a small tarpaulin in which hue car- 
ried a blanket, a small can of coffee, a piece of bacon, some 
crackers and a change of underwear. A tiny frying pan, a 
little coffee pot and a fishing rod were hanging to the outside 
of his pack. The young man had stopped to do his washing in 
a creek and was drying it as he traveled; a towel hung on 
his pack, his handkerchief was stretched over the crown of 
his hat, and he waved a sock in each hand. Professor said: 
"That's the way to do the Park; no wasted time pulling and 
pitching tents every day/' 

We called at the 1 Xorris Soldier Station to see if the good 
boys at Snake River had patrolled any mail for us and two 
of us were made happy by letters. There was one from you, 
dearest Mother, and the Brooklynite also received one from 
his mother. It's a shame all those letters were returned to 
you, when I should have enjoyed them so, but it adds greatly 
to my pleasure to know that you are all well and are having 
such a happy summer. The Brooklynite, too, feels greatly 
relieved to hear that his mother has fully regained her health. 

Our present camp is pitched on a broad flat about two 
miles from the Xorris Basin Inn. We left the Spinster at 
the Hotel, of course, and will meet her in the morning when 
we ride back to explore the Basin. 

This is the warmest night we have had for some time, no 
doubt, because of the hot springs all about us. There are 
several steaming holes within a few yards of our camp and 
the Handy Man has just gone to get us some of the hot wa- 
ter for baths. This is the last night we will have that good, 
obliging friend with us, for he leaves tomorrow when we get 
to the Western Entrance road. 

This has been a most delightful day and I do not feel in 
the least tired, but must get ready for my bath before the 
water cools. The surprising thing about this hot water is 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 155 

that it is so delightfully soft. Our Guide says that if he 
could move one of these little hot springs and the Apollinaris 
Spring down to Lander he'd build a sanitarium and his 
fortune would be made. 

1 5 1 1 t now for the refreshing bath and then happy dreams. 

Vi. 

Great Fountain Camp, Wed., Aug. 21. 

We were enveloped in a thick mist when we got up this 
morning, which did not vanish until nine o'clock. We then 
rode over to explore tlie Basin, which was named for Colonel 
Norris while he was superintended of the Park from 1S77 to 
1882. This large area is literally dotted with steaming holes, 
boiling pools and geysers. The view one gets from the Hotel 
piazza is a very desolate one. and one must follow the path 
marked by loose planks over the dreary white waste and get 
close to the active little basins to really enjoy them. 

Close to the road is the Congress Pool, a large boiling 
spring which throws water and mud with great violence. 
The Ex-dyspeptic said this pool must have been named in 
honor of souk 1 of the mud slinging sessions of Congress which 
were held before the 1 Bull Moosers split off and organized. 

The Mud Geysers of this Basin are not nearly so interest- 
ing as the Mud Volcano we saw over at our General Howard 
Camp. 

The Minute Man was the busiest and most regular gey- 
ser we saw in the Norris Basin and the Constant played 
the highest. It seemed to us that it played fully seventy feet 
into the air, but the table in the guides gives only twenty 
feet as its average height in 1911. Our Guide saw both the 
Valentine and the Monarch play last year; they play the 
highest of any of the geysers in this Basin. 

The most interesting thing in this vicinity for me is the 
Black Growler. It certainly is a noisy fellow, roars con- 
stantly and emits great volumes of steam from its black cra- 
ter. We wanted to wait to see the Monarch play, but our 



156 SIX WEEKS <)\ HORSEBACK 

Guide said it would not pay to wait, since we would sec 
greater geysers in the Old Faithful Basin. 

On our way back to camp we passed a basin of hot water 
called the Bath Tub, and saw the Emerald Pool. We also 
saw the newest geyser of this basin, (he New Crater. It 
broke out through the crust in 1891 with a great commotion 
quite like an earthquake. The waters do not play high from 
this geyser because they are held back by the rocks which 
cover the crater. 

We went back to camp to hitch the horses to the wagon 
and buggy and found that our Handy Man's packhorse had 
strayed off. His owner was certain that he had not gone far 
and told us to go on and he would follow soon. It was quite 
fortunate for our Guide that the Handy Man was delayed, 
for a soldier from the Norris station was about to ride after 
our Guide to make him come back to clean camp. Our friend 
told the officious soldier that we had not left anything lying 
around and that the old paper and rags had been left by for- 
mer occupants of the grounds, but he said it was our Guide's 
business never to leave refuse lying about, no matter who 
put it there, and he was about to ride off in a huff to compel 
Mr. Mack to return when our Handy Man agreed to pick up 
everything that was objectionable ami to carry it over to a 
hollow place out of sight. We learned later that the reason 
tin 1 soldier was so particular about the camping grounds 
which were visible from t he roads was because ( leneral ( Jobby 
and his son, a lieutenant in the Park, were soon to pass by 
and the soldiers are held responsible for the condition of the 
grounds in their respective districts. 

The ride through Gibbon Canyon was magnificent, its 
great rock Avails, the steep wooded banks of the stream, and 
the great loose boulders make this Canyon one of the most 
picturesque in the Park. One small, but very interesting, 
feature in the Canyon and probably seldom noticed by the 
tourists in the fast stages, is the Chocolate Spring. Tt stands 
at the edge of the river, under the road; a chocolate colored 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 157 

spring of rock, which is rapped by a natural cup, from which 
bubbles the clear spring water. There is a similar brown 
cone on the opposite side of the river, more readily noticed 
from the road, but noi Dearly so pretty as the nearer one. 

Beryl Spring, about fifteen feet in diameter, is the largest 
spring in the canyon. lis water hisses and bubbles with opal- 
escent beauty when the sun shines upon it. 

As we ilea red the end of the canyon we came upon Gibbon 
Falls, whose water tumbled in foaming sheets down a series 
of steep cascades. They make a beautiful picture, and .Maud 
and 1 climbed half way down the bank to get our cameras 
focused on the prettiest view. 

At Soda Spring Professor tilled his hot tie again, because 
the water of the spring is so much cooler than the other wa- 
ter in the vicinity, hut it is not so delicious as the Apollin- 
aris water. 

Just before we reached the junction of the Fountain and 
the Yellowstone roads we stopped to lunch and to bid fare- 
well to our dear camp companion, the Handy Man. Poor 
lad took his parting from Maud much harder than she took 
hers from him; we had not gone on two miles before she had 
taken her place beside the Ex-dyspeptic and was chatting as 
gaily as ever. I am really glad that her seeming fondness 
for our friend was not deep, because she is not the woman 
to make him happy for life. 

The road we traveled this afternoon followed the Pirehole 
River and snuggled up to a wall of rock which reflected the 
rays of the sun and made our ride hot and fatiguing. When 
we reached the Firehole Cascades I stood a long time watch- 
ing them because I knew we were not to be treated to many 
more such sights. 

The Sheridan troops are camped about a half mile from 
the Fountain Hotel in the lower Geyser Basin and a number 
of the soldiers were fishing along the Firehole River, but were 
meeting with very poor success. I should think the fish 
would be poor anyway because the water is so warm. 



158 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



We pitched our camp about a half mile above thai of the 
soldier camp and while they were seated on the ground in 
squads eating chunks of beef, beans and biscuits, we took 
some pictures of them. We stayed longer than we thought 
we did for when we neared our camp our Guide shouted, 
"Come and get it!" He had been obliged once more to gel a 
meal without the help of his lady assistant. I am really 
ashamed and must not let this happen again. When 1 apol- 
ogized lie said: "Oh, I didn't miss you, our New York bank- 
er took your place and he's a capital hand at paring pota- 
tocs." 




Firehole Cascades. 

This is an ideal camping ground, plenty of good grass for 
the ponies and quantities of dry wood, but we shall not need 
a fire this warm night. The Sheridan soldiers say they have 
suffered intensely with cold at night because they did not 
carry a sufficient number of blankets. They are giving a 
band concert as I write and we can plainly hear every note 
from our camp. 

We are too tired after our hot ride to enjoy conversation 
tonight and all are ready now to retire. Good night, 

Violet. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 



151) 



Camp Riverside Geyser, Thursday Noon. 

The mist was so heavy this morning that water dropped 
from the tent corners like rain. 

We did not spend much time exploring the Lower Basin 
because the formations and geysers are so much like those 
we saw in the Norris Basin and everyone was anxious to 
peach Old Faithful; the Spinster and .Maud to be able to 
lunch in the famous old Faithful Inn. and the rest of us 
to have a full half day for exploring the Basin. 

There are six hundred ninety-three catalogued hot springs 
and seventeen gevsers in the Lower Basin, which has an area 




The Sheridan Soldiers camped not far from Fountain Hotel. 

of thirty square miles. The most interesting group of gey- 
sers is located near the Fountain Hotel. ( By the way, none 
of us received any mail here. The Spinster dined and lodged 
at the hotel last night, of course.) 

The Fountain Geyser has a very attractive crater con- 
taining masses of geyserite which can be plainly seen 
through the transparent water. The pool which receives 
the overflow when the Geyser plays also contains the geyser- 
ite. 



100 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



We were disappointed in not seeing the Great Fountain 
play. When one of the stage drivers said it had noi played 
for seventeen hours and no one had any idea when it would 
play again we decided it would not pay us to wait. The max- 
imum height of this geyser is one hundred feet, but we ex- 
pect to see some play higher than that in the old Faithful 
basin. 

The lettering on the signboards is so badly washed that 
we could not read the names of two interesting geysers which 
stood side by side and which played while we were standing 
near by. One of them spouted steam, followed by water, in 




•(.il-lii.ii Falls tumble in foaming sheets over a series of cascades." 

all directions from little holes in its peculiar mound, while 
the other played a narrow stream straight into the air. 

The Mammoth Paint Pots are similar to those at the 
Thumb, but. are larger and seem more noisy ; the silicious clay 
keeps rising in globes, cones, and jets, which burst with a 
funny flop, flop. 

Firehole Lake and Buffalo Spring are situated near the 
Great Fountain Geyser on a little spur of the main road 
about two miles south of the Fountain Hotel. There was no 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 161 

sign post at the junction of the roads and we merely followed 
the branch road lest we'd miss seeing' something worth while 
if we didn't. 1 do hope the proper official will soon have a 
lot of new sign boards placed for the pleasure and instruc- 
tion of tourists who travel without a well informed Guide. 
Mr. Mack is above the average and vet it Mould help to re- 
fresh his memory to have legible signs. 

The Midway Basin lies aboul three miles beyond the Foun- 
tain Hotel and tew of the regular stage guides pause here. 
There is a tinted terrace here similar to the Mammoth Ter- 
race, hut very much smaller. 1 found it very interesting, 
however, ami did nol regret the short delay. 

Hell's Half Acre, otherwise known as the Excelsior Gey- 
ser, has an immense basin, three hundred feel across, and 
is very deep. The water in this pit is a deep blue and is in 
constant motion, luit one canol get a glimpse of it until a 
breeze Mows its thick blanket of steam to one side. The 
maximum height at which this geyser used to play was three 
hundred feet, but is ceased its activity in 1888. 

For some distance west of this geyser there are a large 
number of hot springs and right in their midst is one lone 
cold water spring. We had heard of this cold spring and 
were determined to have a drink of its water, hid as there 
was no sign hoard we were obliged to stick our fingers into 
a number of the hot water holes before we were aide to hud 
the one for which we were searching. 

A silent pool of dark blue was labelled "Turquoise Spring" 
and the largest and most beautiful pool in this region is 
the Prismatic Lake. In places it looked as if the bed were 
filled with green sponges, then again there were golden yel- 
low sponge-like masses ; a part of the lake was bordered with 
a red tint, and the deeper part was a dark blue. 

As we were leaving this interesting little area I noticed 
a pretty little rivulet flowing in a narrow red gully down to 
the river below. It was such a fascinating little stream that 
I stopped to photograph it, hut of course the beauty of its 



162 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



tinted bed will be lost in the picture. 1 wish the greal Edi- 
son would hurry and perfect the contrivance for photograph- 
ing colors; I want to use it the next time 1 visit the Yel- 
lowstone, 

I was very glad that I wore my tinted glasses today for 
the reflection of the hot sun from the white deposit was very 
trying and both the Ex-dyspeptic and the Spinster suffered 
with headache, and rode in the wagon. 

The Biscuit Basin is another place which the short time 
stage passes by. It is off the main road a few rods and our 
Guide and his two passengers did not stop here. I am glad 




"Tlie bi.seuit-like knohs in Biscuit Basin are different from tiny other 
format ion I have seen." 

that I rode in because the hundreds of biscuit like knobs in 
the formation are so different from anything else we have 
seen. The Artemesia Geyser gives one a view of its basin to 
a greater depth than any other geyser in the Park, T think. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PAR K 163 

With the sun nearly overhead the water bubbles looked like 
myriads of turquoises. 

Jewel Geyser is another little beauty with its mossy bulbs 
of olive green. The Black Pearl has the oddest basin of all. 
It is studded wit li little black bead-like projections which 
look for all the world like black pearls. I am glad great 
numbers of tourists do not visit this little area for I fear they 
would soon rob the Black Pearl of its beauty. It is strictly 
against the Park rules to remove any of the incrustations, 
and yet selfish and heedless tourists are rapidly marring and 
ruining tin- beauty of many of the formations. They break 
off pieces thinking to carry them away for souvenirs, but as 
soon ;is they are exposed to the dry air they crumble and are 
of no use to anyone. 

We met an elderly couple in Midway Basin who are great 
nature lovers. They came from ('tali and are traveling 
through the Park in a single seated buggy which has the 
mess box fastened on in front and an oat bin behind. At 
nighl they spread their blankets on the ground and form a 
little tepee by throwing a tarpaulin over the tongue of their 
buggy. They sit on the tarp and the bedding when they 
travel. They have been caught out in rains and have been 
uncomfortable at night, but for all that they say they are 
having the time of their lives. 

I believe I have seen the Morning Glory Spring pictured 
more often than any other one feature of the Park, unless 
it was the Grand Canyon, and I was very eager to see the 
real spring. Of course, as is usually the case when one has 
been for a long time anticipating something grand, I was a 
little disappointed in the Morning Glory. It is really not so 
beautiful in its coloring as some of the other springs and 
pools which we have seen, but its basin does resemble a 
morning glory in shape. 

We reached the Upper Basin in ample time for the 
Spinster, Maud and the Ex-dyspeptic to lunch at the Old 
Faithful Inn. I was so dirty that I preferred to lunch in 



164 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

camp. We pulled up the bill above the Riverside Geyser and 

turned the ponies out to graze and to rest, but when our Guide 
investigated he found that the grass Mas fed off and decided 
to go farther for our night camp, later. 

I felt well rewarded for staying to lunch in camp when the 
Riverside Geyser played. It throws a stream about one 
hundred feet into the air and plays only every seven hours. 

I have written to this point in today's letter while resting 
after lunch and now I must stop and do the Basin. 

Vi. 

P. S. While the Brooklynite is saddling our ponies I want 
to sell you, Mamsey, that I am going to spend the afternoon 
unchaperoned in his company. While I was putting my 
fountain pen into my saddle pouch he came to ask if 1 
wouldn't let him play guide for me as lie had done in the 
canyon. The Navajo incident came into my mind and I 
hesitated to reply, but it is awfully hard to brand him as a 
thief when I look into those big, honest looking eyes of his. 
When I did not reply Ik 1 said, "Miss Chester, you have shown 
me very plainly of late that you either do not enjoy my com- 
pany or else that I have done something to displease you. 
Won't you be frank with me and tell me which it is so that I 
can defend myself if it is the latter?" Von know, Mother, that 
blunt candor is one of my faults and so I said, "Mr. Abbott, 
I do enjoy seeing the beauties of nature with you better than 
with any other member of our party because we seem to enjoy 
such things in the same way, but there is — well, Til answer 
the other part of your question some other time, and now, 
since none of the rest of the party are going to explore any 
part of the Basin except that which is in the immediate 
vicinity of the Hotel, I'll be seltish enough to accept you as 
guide for the afternoon." 

"I am sorry it cannot be because of a mutual pleasure in 
each other's company," he replied, "but 1 shall be grateful 
for your company, at least." 



Til h'oli;// YELLOWSTONE PARK 



165 



Lone Star ('amp. Friday, Aug. 23, 1912. 

I was too tired last night to write, so will scribble now, 
while the men arc taking the tents down and preparing to 
move. 

The Brooklynite and I certainly had a strenuous afternoon 
yesterday, bul we enjoyed the time we spent looking at the 
queer and beautiful freaks of nature very much. Strange 
how I could so completely forget my unhappy misgivings 
al>ont the bank cashier. 

Before we started out I 
asked him to explain the ac- 
tion of geysers 1<> me. It 
puzzled me to know jnst why 
and how the water was forced 
up periodically. The Brook- 
lynite took a card and pencil 
from his pocket and said, "In 
the first place yon must keep 
in mind the fad that pressure 
in water increases with depth 
and also that the boiling 
point rises with the increase 
in pressure." Then he made 
a little drawing-, similar to 
he one I have made here 
and said, "Now theu, let 
A B represent the geyser 
tube and let the tube he tilled with water that is furnished 
to it from the higher strata of land and let it be heated by 
the buried masses of lava which have not yet cooled. Let 
the water in the tube be heated at two different points, 
first at C and then at D. The water at C begins to boil, the 
snperincnmbent column is consequently raised and the 
stratum of water which was on the point of boiling at D 
being raised to E is there subjected to a diminished 




166 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

pressure, a sudden evolution of steam accordingly takes 
place at E and the superincumbenl water is violently 

ejected. 

"Then it is cooled in the Basin at A and this air-cooled 
water sinks hack into the tube again and lowers the 
temperature of the entire column, hut the under strata, being 
least affected, the boiling begins again at r and the same 
thing happens all over again. 

"Any hot spring which deposits siliceous material by 
evaporation can gradually build up a tube and may in time 
become a geyser." 

"But why do we see so many extinct geyers?" 1 asked. 
"Every geyser which continues to deposit siliceous material 
is preparing for its own funeral," the Brooklynite replied. 
"As soon as the tube becomes dee]) enough to contain a 
column of water heavy enough to prevent the lower strata 
attaining the boiling point the whole mechanism is deranged 
and, you see, it cannot play any longer." 

I had studied geyser action both in my class in geology 
and in physics, but I never fully understood the Bunsen 
theory before. 

It would take more time than I can take for writing at 
this time to tell you all we saw yesterday and so Til merely 
mention some of the places of especial interest as they come 
back into my mind. 

first we climbed the White Pyramid to gel a bird's eye 
view of the basin; a better view, however, can be had from 
the observatory on the roof of the hotel. Not far from the 
Pyramid is the Devil's Bunch Bowl. It certainly does look 
like a big bowl standing about live feet above the general 
level and is about ten feet in diameter. It has a rim about 
eighteen inches thick. The clear sparkling water constantly 
overflows the bowl. There is a little opening in the east sid<- 
of the mound which has the daintiest of linings, resembling 
satin. The Wylie Permanent Camp people have piped the 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 1G7 

water from the Bowl to Their camp at their Old Faithful 
quarters. 

The Gianl G-eyser is in a busy neighborhood, three boiling 
cauldrons at its side being always noisily at work. The Giant 
cone is ten feet high and has one of its sides broken off. The 
old fellow has not played for nearly three weeks and a num- 
ber <>f tourists arc waiting over in the hope of seeing him 
do his big stunt. He ejects quite a column of water every 
few minutes and there is every indication that lie will play 
at his best very soon, but he refused to do so while we were 
looking and so we missed seeing the highest geyser in the 
world send his column of water two hundred and fifty feel 
into the air. 

The Giantess Geyser, which occupies the diosI prominent 
place on Geyser Hill, also refused to play for us, but we saw 
the Bee Hive, which was a greal treat we should have been 
sorry to miss. The water ejected from its nozzle-like cone 
is so hot that it comes with a greal roar and is converted into 
an immense column of steam and spray. A strange thing in 
connection with the Bee Hive is its indicator, a small fissure 
in the formation about ten feet from the cone of the geyser. 
This little indicator always plays just a few minutes ahead 
of the Bee Hive. 

The Lion showed off for us, but the Lioness and her two 
Cubs were resting. The sinter formation around the Lioness 
has been almost ruined by souvenir fiends. 

If one has a good imagination he can picture an old castle 
in ruins in the mound of Castle Geyser, but the cone of the 
Sponge Geyser interested me more. It looks for all the 
world like a big, porous sponge, both in form and color, and 
spouts water through a hole in the centre. 

There are a number of beautiful pools in this basin, but 
they are quite a little distance to the right of the main 
geysers and none of our party, save the Brooklynite and I, 
went over to see them. 

Emerald Pool, as its name suggests, is a beautiful green 



168 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

pond and is quite large. Rainbow Pool has a variety of lints 
and is also very pretty. There was so much steam over Sun- 
set Lake that I could not tell what it was like; and my! bul 
it was hot standing on the white formation all around the 
pools. 

The guide book says that a handkerchief placed in the fun- 
nel-like basin of Handkerchief Pool will be drawn down and 
out of sight by convection of currents in the water, and in a 
few minutes will reappear. We put my handkerchief into the 
basin near the edge as directed, but it stayed where we put it. 
Then we tossed it into the centre and a tourist poked at it 
with his cane but it would not sink. My companion laugh- 
ingly said I had exerted my power of mesmerism over the 
handkerchief and that it was loath to leave me even for a 
few minutes. 

There is a peculiar little geyser near the Lion group which 
I forgot to mention. It is called the Devil's Ear and really, 
Mother, it is a wonderful likeness of a big ear raised slight- 
ly from the ground, with its lobe pierced by a tiny geyser. 
My campanion remarked that we could get some idea of the 
Devil's size when we measure the distance from his thumb 
at Mammoth Springs to his ear at Old Faithful. 

I felt like shaking an elderly lady who, when the Hotel 
Guide turned his back, broke a piece of the crust from the 
Ear. If many tourists do the same it will not be long till 
that odd freak is ruined. 

We worked hard and fast and a few minutes before four we 
were ready to give our attention to the Old Faithful Gey- 
ser. This geyser is situated but a few rods from the Enn. 
Its external formation is a mound of a whitish material 
composed mainly of silica and water, called geyserite. The 
mound's greatest diameter at its base is two hundred fifteen 
feet, and fifty-four feet at the top. It is made up of layers 
of the deposit. The layers form basins which are very pret- 
ty with their azure pools and their pink, white or gray bot- 



Tiiiioi'cn ) /:ijj)\yst<>.xi-: /m/.Vv' 



169 



Toms. The chimney head of the geyser tube forms a basin live 
feet deep. 

The eruptions begin with some preliminary spurts which 
grow gradually more powerful for three or four minutes and 
are followed by great jets in rapid succession. They soon 
attain a height of from one hundred twenty-live to one 
hundred fifty feet, and play at that height two or three 
minutes. As the name, old Faithful, suggests, the eruptions 
arc very regular, coming about every sixty-five minutes. 

A dear old man, whose lace beamed with goodness and 
cheer, stood near me while the <>ld Faithful played and tried 



•"«* 



., ..«M, 




"Old Faithful Geyser plays at a height of one hundred twenty-five feet." 

to take a picture of the famous geyser in action. He was 
using a kodak for the first time and his hand shook so with 
excitement that I fear his picture will not be a success. It 
is difficult at best to get a clear picture of a geyser. AVe were 
both eager to make several exposures, but dared not do so 



170 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



as we were using our last roll of lilms and were told (liar there 
is not a cartridge of the Eastman 3A films left in the Park. 

After the Old Faithful finished its exhibition we visited 
the Harm's Picture Shop to see Old Faithful Junior, a 
miniature mechanical geyser, placed there by the publisher 
of the Haynes Official Guide to demonstrate Hansen's geyser 
theory; but that artificial geyser was on a strike and would 
not demonstrate. 

Maud and the Ex-dyspeptic were in the shop purchasing 
pictures and the latter presented me With a little water color 
which I admired. Next we visited the general store, where 




Taken from roof o£ Old Faithful Inn. 

the Brooklynite bought a spoon for his mother and one just 
like it which he begged me to aeccepl for you, Mamsey dear. It 
was such a beauty that I wanted you to have it and so I took 
it for you. 1 hope you will think I did right. Now Sis can 
have the cheaper one T purchased for you. 



Til Hun; II YELLOWSTONE PARK 



171 



Maud and the Spinster were anxious to remain at the Inn 
to dine and to sec the searchlight thrown on Old Faithful 
later when it played. The Spinster very graciously invited 
the entire party to dine at her expense, but our Guide said he 
and Professor would have to start out at once in search of 
a suitable camping ground, and Mrs. White and 1 were so 
tired and dirty that we preferred to go to camp as soon as 
possible to rest. 

It was finally arranged that the Ex-dyspeptic stay with the 
ladies to escort thetn hack to camp, hnt we went so much 
farther to find a suitable camp than our Guide had thought 




"The Old Faithful Inn is a unique log struct lire.'' 

necessary that he, poor man. was obliged to go back to the 
hotel late in the evening for the three who had remained there. 

I see that the tents are packed and everyone ready to leave, 
but I want to tell you something about the Hotel and also 
to describe this beautiful camp to you, Mother, so I am going 
to continue writing a while longer. My pony can easily 
overtake the party. 

The Old Faithful Inn is not so grand in its appointments 
as the Hotel in Grand Canyon, but it is more interesting to 
the average tourist because it is so very unique. It is an 



172 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

immense log structure built at a cost of t wo hundred thousand 
dollars. The centre is eight stories high and is surmounted 
by a lookout. Huge rough blocks of stone form the founda- 
tion and the long slope of the roof is dotted wit 1 1 gabled 
windows. Everything in the construction is left as far as 
possible in its natural state. Massive logs taper to each 
ascending balcony, the steps are split logs, braced timbers 
support the roof, and elbows of natural branches are used 
as braces and framework. The quaint old Locks and hinges 
were forged by hand and there are big old fashioned door 
latches in place of knobs. The great chimney containing 
four large and four small fire places is made of lava blocks. 
There is another chimney in the dining room with an old 
fashioned spit and oven. The windows contain little diamond 
shaped panes and are curtained with odd French curtains. 
It is really worth coming a long distance just to see the 
quaint log structure. 

I am tried of writing and shall leave the description of this 
beautiful cam]) for another letter. I see T do not have to ride 
alone till I overtake our party, for the Brooklynite has been 
sitting up near the Lone Star Geyser all the while I have 
been writing. I did not know it until T was about to put my 
pen away. He just remarked that I must be a x^vy unselfish 
daughter to write such long letters to my mother, but lie 
doesn't know that it is really selfishness in me because ! 
could not enjoy this delightful sight seeing so much if I 
thought I could not share at least a part of the pleasure with 
my chum mother. 

Violet. 

P. S. I neglected to mention the Kepler Cascades which 
we passed on our way from the Old Faithful. I want to tell 
you about them because it was too late to photograph I hem. 
The water flows from shelf to shelf for quite a distance and 
forms the most enchanting little cascades I have seen in 
the Park. 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 173 

Cold Springs Camp, Friday. 

When the Brooklynite and I left the Lone Star Camp the 
morning air was delicious and we traveled at such an easy 
gait that we did not overtake the rest of the party until nearly 
noon. 

We rode along in silence for a few minutes, each appar- 
ently in deep thought, then my companion broke the silence. 
"Little girl," he said kindly, "won't you tell me what I have 
done in offend you?" Mother mine, you will laugh at your 
simpleton daughter when I tell you that 1 blurted out all 
that was on my mind about that expensive Navajo. I (old 
him thai 1 never accepted costly gifts from men and then L 
foolishly preached to him about what such extravagances 
lead ;t young man to do and how it would break his mother's 
heart to discover that he was dishonest. I did not look at 
him while I was preaching; 1 did not have the heart to, and 
1 imagined he had turned pale because his duplicity had been 
discovered. You can imagine my surprise when he began to 
laugh long and heartily. "How much do I earn a month?" 
he asked. That simple question made me see for the first 
time how very bold and impertinent I had been and I colored 
painfully. He changed his manner at once and said, "Poor 
little Puritan, forgive me for treating a matter which has 
caused you pain lightly. I am so happy to discover that 
your grievance against me is only a misunderstanding which 
I can explain away in a few words." 

Then, Mother mine, what do you think he told me? He is 
not a bank cashier at all and was only temporarily filling the 
regular cashier's place the afternoon that our Guide called 
at the bank because the cashier was suddenly taken with an 
illness. He told me that he is the vice president of the bank 
of which he is a very large share holder ; he lias also an inter- 
est in one of the largest woolen mills of the Xew England 
states and owns some city real estate. So our ordinary bank 
cashier is suddenly transformed into a very wealthy man, 
to whom the cost of a little Navajo rug means no more than 



174 SIX WEEKS OX HORSEBACK 

a box of candy does to a school teacher like me. For a mo- 
ment I was so astonished and so ashamed that I could not 
say a word, then the humor of it all struck me and I laughed, 
and gave myself up to the joy of living once more and of 
seeing the beauties of Nature, which seemed more beautiful 
than ever since the fear was lifted from my mind. The 
Brooklynite, too, seemed happier than 1 had seen him since 
our afternoon together in the Grand Canyon. 

But I must go back and describe our last night's camp for 
you. It is off the main road, about two and a quarter miles 
from the Old Faithful Inn, and a stone's throw from the 
Lone Star Geyser. This geyser is visited only by tourists 
who have time to take the side trips. We arc all glad we 
camped near the tine old Lone Star for we all enjoyed it 
more than any other geyser in the Park. In fart, we all feel 
a sort of affection for this lone geyser; he seems to sort of 
belong to us because there wasn't another human being with- 
in sight or sound and we had the lonesome beauty all to our- 
selves for so many hours. He seemed to have a similar af- 
fection for us, too, because, if the guide books are right in 
their descriptions, he never performed for other tourists as 
he did for us, especially when he gave ns a farewell exhibition 
this morning. 

His cone, the guide books claims, is his main attraction 
and it is pretty, standing about twelve feet above the main 
surroundings, with one large central opening and several 
small ones; but it is the way the geyser played that gave ns 
the greatest pleasure. 

His first exhibition, after we reached camp, was at 7 :-"">0 
P. M. This was nothing out of the ordinary and of short 
duration; he must just have been trying ns to see how ap- 
preciative we are. At nine a column of water and steam shot 
up suddenly from the large central tube vertically about 
seventy-five feet into the air and several smaller ones from 
the side openings in the cone. Tt played steadily a few min- 
utes, died down a little, then started up with renewed vigor. 



Til ROlC, II YELLOWSTONE PARK 



L75 



This performance was continued for fully twenty minutes, 
and the little rivulets, formed by the overflow, went racing 
down to the river. 

We sat on the hill side close by to watch the geyser play 
and I chanced to sit in a little depression in the surface, but 
1 did not remain there long, for it became unbearably warm. 
W'e investigated the hill slope then and discovered several 
sunken spots which were all hot while the geyser played, some 
much wanner than others. 

This morning at six-thirty our fascinating geyser gave a 
short play and a half hour later it gave the finest exhibition 




The cone of the Lone Star Geyser has a central opening and several 
smaller openings at the side. 

of all. It shot its jet of water even higher than it did last 
night and played a full half hour, taking short rests, during 
which the water rose only about fifteen feet, then, in a 
moment, it regained its maximum height. As we looked at 
the playing water from our position facing the rising sun we 
saw a beautiful rainbow arching the sky. 

Most geysers play at quite regular intervals, but while we 
were camping near the Lone Star it was very irregular. I 
think such a performance as it gave us this morning must be 



17G SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

very unusual, else few tourists would miss visiting the lonely 
geyser. 

The ride this forenoon through the rugged Spring Gulch 
Canyon was glorious. The irregular walls, the narrow 
turbulent stream laughing with us, the rock needles pointing 
skyward, and the beautiful purple fringed gentians growing 
by the roadside, all together made a picture long to be 
remembered. The air was almost intoxicating and made me 
feel that after all the great world holds more joy than 
sorrow. 

When at length we caught up with the rest of the party 
we found that they, too, had felt the exhilarating influence of 
the perfect morning and were animated and happy. During 
lunch, someone remarked that he had not seen our Ex- 
dyspeptic take any tablets for several days, and he replied, 
''The only kind of digestive tablet I need now is a piece of 
bread with a thick coating of jam and the bigger the pill the 
better it acts." 

After lunch we climbed up steadily for ten miles and 
reached the top of the Continental Divide. 1 believe we 
crossed the Divide three times while in the Park, but the 
ascent is so gradual that we should not have known when we 
arrived at the top if it were not for the sign boards. I was a 
little disappointed in the Two Ocean Lake here at the summit. 
The name had led me to expert to see a pair of lakes with 
visible outlets; one flowing down tow aid the Atlantic, am! 
the other in the opposite direction to the Pacific. What we 
did see was a silent, insignificant pond, with a narrow strip 
of earth and sod dividing it in the centre. The pari on the 
Pacific side was covered with yellow pond lilies. 

Prom the summit the road takes a sudden, but short, drop, 
then we pulled up a steep grade again for some distance. 

The <dear day gave us a good view of a pari of Shoshone 
Lake and the snow covered Tetons, way off in the distance 
and Mt. Moran glistened in the sunlight like a great silver 
dome. The altitude from which we got the view is eight 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 177 

thousand feet. Here, as in some other parts of the Park, we 
found that the figures on the sign boards do not tally with 
those given in the official circular of information. 

We crossed the Divide again at an altitude of eight thou- 
sand, three hundred and forty-live feet, about three and a half 
miles from the Thumb. The slopes of the Divide in the Park 
are not dotted with springs and rivulets as is the eastern one 
of the Wind River Divide, nor are the grades so steep as on 

that slope. 

We got hack to the Thumb at two, rested a hit while our 
Guide bought bread and meat at the Lunch Station, then we 
began to retrace our road back to the Snake River Station. 
While at the Thumb we were told that since our first visit 
to this place a new geyser had broken out not far from the 
Thumb Soldier station which plays fully as high as the Old 
Faithful. If this is true the Thumb will no doubt become a 
more popular resort than it now is. 

We are camped near Cold Springs, a distance of live miles 
from the Thumb. Some good camper left a quantity of wood, 
which will be a boon to our Guide, who misses our Bandy 
Man greatly. 

We decided not to mail our letters in the last two hotels, 
because we have an idea that the mail service is more prompt 
and reliable outside of the Park; will drop all our mail into 
the Moran Postoffice. V. 0. 



Snake River Camp, Aug. 24, 1912. 

Wolves howled so last night that they kept us awake till 
nearly midnight and the Ex-dyspeptic got up and crawled in- 
to the wagon box. 

The Park Superintendent must have heard complaints 
about the road between the Thumb and the Southern En- 
trance for we passed a few road scrapers today, but the drops 
from the bridges have not been improved. 

Maud and the Spinster were in excellent spirits all after- 
noon because we are homeward bound while I, on the other 



178 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



hand, felt somewhat depressed because we were leaving the 
wonderful National Park. Soon the new friends whom I 
have come to know so well in a few weeks' time, by constant 
companionship, will pass out of my life and probably I shall 
never meet some of them again. 

When we reached the path which leads to The Moose Falls 
the rest of the party passed right on, but 1 stopped to take 
the last look at the first attraction of the Yellowstone Park 
for tourists coming, as we had, into the Southern Entrance 

Just before we reached the Soldier Station, Maud asked 
our Guide if we were to camp near by. lie replied thai it 
was still early in the day and it would be wiser to go right 
on till we reached our old camping place near the Snake Riv- 
er and, by so doing, we would be able to get to Sheffield Lodge 




"Our guns were returned at the Snake River Soldier Station." 

at Jackson Lake tomorrow for lunch. Thai was enough for 
the Spinster; the mere mention of a hotel made her eager 
to go on; in short, everyone voted to go farther, excepting 
Maud and myself. 

The soldiers had kept track of the whereabouts of the Red 
Sweater bunch, as they called us, and woiv ready for our 
coming. 1 wish, Mother. vtm could have seen the immense 



Til R()l(; 11 YELLOWSTONE PARK 179 

pyramid of dry branches they had built up for our camp (ire. 
The hollow space in The centre was filled with pine twigs and 
needles; I can imagine how pretty the fire would have been 
and how delicious the fragrance of the burning pine needles. 
Everything about the camp was as neat as wax and showed 
how hard the boys had worked for our pleasure. To say they 
were disappointed is putting it mildly and if Maud and 1 had 
dared we certainly would have remained behind just to show 
the boys how we appreciated their efforts for our comfort. 
I think it was positively heartless of the rest of the party not 

to be willing to sacrifice a few hours to help give these | r, 

homesick soldiers a little pleasure. 

We traveled twenty-eighl miles today ami reached our old 
camp at six-thirty. .Maud and I are cross tonight and are 
going to lied early. Vi. 



Camp Jackson Lake. Sunday. 

The morning was so tine that Maud and I soon forgot our 
grievance and gave ourselves up to the pleasure of the pret- 
ty ride along the Snake River. They had had more rain in 
that vicinity than we had in the Park and the roads are very 
heavy with here and there a bad mud hole. Our Guide's 
wagon got mired in one of the holes and the Government 
Engineer who was in charge of the .Jackson bake Dam pulled 
the wagon out with his mules. 

Maud chose to ride with the Brooklynite when we started 
out, Mrs. White, who is strong enough now to ride a part of 
each day, was the Spinster's companion, and the Ex-dyspep- 
tic rode at my side. He said some very complimentary things 
and asked permission to write to me when he goes back East. 
I replied that I supposed we would all exchange a few let- 
ters so as to compare and trade photographs. "But, my dear 
Miss Violet," he said, "I was not thinking of that sort of 
correspondence ; I — I hoped our letters would continue until 
they developed a bond between us that should become, ah, 
more lasting than a mere friendship, don't you knaw." For- 



ISO 



SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 



tunately, I was spared the necessity of making a reply by a 
shout from Maud, who wanted to get her kodak from the Ex- 
dyspeptic's saddle pouch. 

Had I been an artist I should certainly have stopped long 
enough to sketch the Tetons as they were reflected in the 
clear water of the Snake River. A pretty little wooded 
island, and a flock of ducks swimming near the bank complet- 
ed the picture. There chanced to be a stretch of good road jnsi 
where the landscape was the most charming and tin- others 
spurred their ponies to make up for lost lime so as to reach 
the Lodge in time for lunch. I wanted to enjoy the pretty pic- 
ture and fell back and stood for a few moments with my 
elbow resting on my saddle horn and my chin in my band, 
while I drank in the beauties of the scene. 



-_ 



Sn:ike Kivi 



kson l.:ik< 



When I reached into my saddle pockel for my camera 1 no- 
ticed that the Brooklynite bad also paused a few rods up the 

road to enjoy the landscape. After I had photographed the 
grand Tetons with their reflected image lie rode back lo where 
I stood and said, "I have a more complete photograph of ihis 
pretty picture than yon have, little Violel of the Pines." I He 
called me that once before: T wonder why I remind him of the 
pines, i "Yes," he continued, "mine is more complete because 
it is taken from a bend in the road and contains the photo- 
grapb of a little Puritan maid astride a beautiful pony, but 



Til Hon; II YELLOWSTONE I'Ah'K ISi 

no one looking at that photograph, save myself, will be able 
to sec the soul of that girl reflected in a pair of beautiful 
violet eyes as they feast on one of her Creator's great paint- 
ings.'" 

••Is it not strange," L replied, "how on a perfect day, when 
the air is exhilarating and the scenery grand, everything 
seems touched by a magic wand? Even a very ordinary 
school teacher in a disgracefully dirty frock causes an optical 
delusion.'" Then 1 added. "1 ;nn tired of poking along so 
slowly. Lei's see who lias the Swifter steed." 

Such a jolly race! My black beauty enjoyed the tain in 
the delicious air as much as 1 and left the Brooklynite be- 
hind in short time. When 1 came to a muddy place in the 
road 1 reined my pony in and dismounted to coil my hair, 
which was tumbling about my shoulders. You know, Mother, 
how that peculiar gold tint shows up in my dark hair when 
the sun shines on it ; well, I was standing by my pony's head 
shaking out the remaining pins when the Brooklynite rode 
up. and when I began to twist my hair, he cried, "Stop that!" 
and jumped from his pony. "What's the matter?" 1 asked. 
"Merely this.' - he said, as he drew my hands down and shook 
my hair. "The magic wand is at work again and L want to 
enjoy this new picture a moment. It is positively wicked 
in one who has such a wealth of hair to coil it up as tightly ;ts 
you do." I coiled my hair tighter than ever and hurried to 
join Ih; 1 rest of the party. 

By that time we were traveling over a most peculiar look- 
ing country. The road was covered with gravel and on all 
sides the ground was strewn with pebbles and round stones. 
It looked just like the bed of a dried up lake and extended for 
two miles. There are two or three clumps of old trees; very, 
very old they must be for their trunks are split and the little 
remaining bark hangs in shreds. The seeds of these old 
trees must have been brought here by water in some early 
period, for they are very different from the -trees which are 
native to this district. 



182 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

We passed some friends of Professor and Mrs. White ; they, 
too, were returning from the Park. They said that they were 
so disgusted with the cold, damp weather and so disappointed 
in what they saw that they went only half around the regu- 
lar circuit. I could not help thinking of that pet expression 
of yours, .Mother, "This world is as yon make it and reflects 
back to yon your own nature." Professor said, "That man 
would not have a good time if he were traveling in the great- 
est comfort and luxury; he's a chronic growler." I shall cer- 
tainly never advise anyone like that to take a camping out 
trip to Yellowstone Park. 

We reached the Teton Lodge Hotel at two o'clock and our 
Guide said it was his turn to treat to dinner, lie asked -Mr. 
Sheffield how much he would charge for dinner for our 
party and that gentleman replied, "Well, if yon want to cat 
in the regular dining- room, it will cost yon seventy-live cents 
a plate, but if you are willing to sit with the roughnecks in 
the little room back of the postoffice it will only cost yon 
thirty-five cents for exactly the same meal." 1 thought it 
would be a pity to make our Guide pay seventy-five cents a 
plate for so many and I said, "0, let's go to the little room 
back of the postoffice, it will be so much jollier than the con- 
ventional dining room." The Spinster said, "Camp assist- 
ants may eat with roughnecks if they choose, but 1 am not 
used to that sort of company." Mother mine, I wish you 
could have seen the Brooklynite's eyes sua]* tire. I didn't 
know he could get so angry; he actually turned pale as lie 
said, "Of course, Miss Boyd, water always seeks its own lev- 
el, but cream rises to the top. 1 wish you to understand 
that our little high-born aristocrat here rises far above the 
ordinary money-made plutocrat." Then, turning to our Guide 
he said, "With your permission, Mr. Mack, Miss Chester 
and I will dine in the smaller dining room." Then he turned 
to me and said, "Miss Chester, 1, too, think it would be more 
fun to dine in the room back Of the postoffice and should be 
happy if you will allow me to accompany you." 






THROUGH YELLOWSTONE /'ARK 183 

Of course, I felt awfully cut by the Spinster's remark, but 
I thought the Banker was much more severe than the occa- 
sion warranted. The affair made us all feel very uncom- 
fortable and I feared thai we would not be friends again, 
but the Spinster came to as right alter dinner and made a 
very sweet apology and so we are happy once more. Our 
genial Guide rose to the occasion as he always docs, and 
when the Brooklynite and I started to go to the smaller room,, 
he turned to the rest and said, "Come on folks, we cat with 
the swell guys; no roughnecks lor me." 

YYc are camping on the hill again overlooking the Lake and 
have as neighbors two families of Mormons who have come 
all the way from Utah in wagons. There are three small 
children in the party and the poor mothers look all tired out. 
One of them asked me how far it is to the Park, and when 1 
replied that it is twenty-live miles she sighed and said, "O 
my, it's been twenty-five miles for three days; I wish I hadn't 
a come." Really, Mother, I think children should he barred 
from the Park the same as dogs. Moving camp every day is 
too trying on both the children and their poor, tired mothers. 

While we were at dinner the Brooklynite said to me, "It 
will be glorious on the Lake in the moonlight tonight. Put 
on some warm wraps and we'll slip away for a row at seven." 
I wanted that row so badly because — well, because I always 
do enjoy the Banker's company when I want to have a quiet 
good time and do not feel like listening to a lot of idle chat- 
ter, but, after that dinner experience, I did not feel that it 
would be quite right for us to go off by ourselves so soon 
again. My companion looked awfully hurt when I said I did 
not care to row unless some of the rest of the party accom- 
panied us ; of course he could not understand my reason and 
I did not try to enlighten him. 

But we had a most delightful two hours on the Lake after- 
all, for Professor hired Mr. Sheffield to take us all out in the 
launch. Moonlight on Jackson Lake with the three majestic 
Teton Peaks keeping guard ! It Avas grand. Maud began a 



184 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

song and soon we all joined her except the Brooklynite. It 
did not seem complete without his tine tenor and he looked so 
down hearted that I left my place next to the Ex-dyspeptic 
and sat beside the gloomy hanker. "Are you ill?" I inquired. 
"You are so quiet tonight." "No," he answered, "I think I 
never felt better, physically, than 1 do tonight.'* "Then why 
don't you sing?" I asked. "It doesn't sound right without 
your tenor." "I didn't suppose you'd miss it," he said. "1 
did not suppose it would make any difference." "Of course 
it makes a difference," I answered. "I am such a ridiculous- 
ly sensitive creature that I cannot be perfectly happy unless 
everyone else around me is happy." "Then stay here by my 
side/' he replied, "and the song will come back into my hearl ." 

Isn't he the queerest man, Mother? Just like a big, spoiled 
boy, and do you know, Mamsey, I keep constantly comparing 
him with Clyde; I just can't help it. Whenever he does any- 
thing for any of us that shows any marked degree of thought- 
fulness, I say to myself, "Now, Clyde would not have done 
that; he would mean to, but he would not think of it. When 
he stops to examine a ledge of rock or a peculiar formation 
I always think how Clyde said to me one time, years ago, 
when I asked some question for information. "Dear inc. Yi.. 
can't you ever enjoy the beauty of a thing without wanting 
to know the why of it?" Bui dear old Clyde would have 
flared up and championed me just as the Brooklynite did 
this afternoon if he had been here. 

That reminds me, the only letter for me here at Moran was 
from Clyde. It was in reply to my answer to his remark that 
our marriage would be hastened because of his promotion. 
His letter is short and frosty and closes in this way : "When a 
girl is not made happy by a proposal of marriage there is 
but one explanation and that is that there is someone else. 
I have been suspecting for some time that one of those West- 
erners was casting me into the shadow. Your letters have 
been gradually growing colder and farther apart for sev- 
eral months. If there is someone else all von have to do is 



THROUGH YELLOWSTONE PARK 1S5 

to say so . Of course, as you say. we have never been formally 
engaged, but what is the use of a formal engagement when 
our ultimate marriage has always been taken for granted by 
both families?" 

Clyde is mistaken when he says there has been someone 
else for several months, l>ut I realize now as never before that 
I do not love him enough to marry him. Isn't it strange that 
I never fully appreciated that fact before? 

We will mail our letters here before we leave in the morn- 
ing. If we take the longer way back to Lander t will send 
vou mail from t lie town of Jackson next. Vi. 



Sheffield Lodge, Monday, Aug. 26. 

Just a line, Mother, dear, to let you know that we are not 
going home the long way through the Hoback country after 
all, and you need not send any more mail to any of the postal 
stations I mentioned in my list, but address me next at Lan- 
der. 

The Brooklynite and 1 were bitterly disappointed when our 
Guide learned that the recent heavy rains have made the 
roads around that way almost impassable. We could get 
through all right on horseback, but our heavy wagon would 
be sure to get mired. I did want to see the rough mountain 
scenery of that region so badly and the Brooklynite wanted 
to hunt elk. We shall probably be on the Reservation now, 
when the hunting season begins. The Ex-dyspeptic is not 
so disappointed as we are, because the telegram received in 
the Park told of a business meeting which he is anxious to 
attend. Maud and the Spinster are more than pleased as they 
are both getting a bit homesick. The Banker declares that 
he will come out to hunt next year. 

We shall probably arrive in Lander on the second ; that will 
give me a whole week in which to rest before school opens. 

hen, goo 
Liovingly, 
Violet, 



1 8(5 



»S7.V WEEKS OS 110 USE HACK 



I\ S. I shall ivnt rooms next week, Mother, so that you 
can come lo Lander as soon as Sis goes to Yassar. Vi. 




The Red Pass road follows close to the river. 

Brook's Lake Cam]!, Wed., Aug. 28. 

Before leaving Jackson Lake the men of our party caught 
enough large trout to give us two good meals and we suc- 
ceeded in getting bread and butter, but our poor ponies are 
going on half rations. We could not get any oats at the 
Lodge nor at Allen's store, nor at any of the ranch houses 
we have passed. 1 would much rather have our cry be for 
bread as it was when we came up, because 1 could bake bis- 
cuits to satisfy hunger, but there is nothing to take the place 
of oats for our ponies. We have been obliged to make long- 
stops through the day to give them opportunity to till up on 
grass. 

One of our stops was near a little cabin belonging to a pio- 
neer trapper. He is an interesting old man, seventy or more, 
and he lives all alone with not a neighbor in sight. We asked 
him if he does not get lonely and he replied, "How can I gel 
lonesome A\ith snch a large family." Then he pointed to his 
faithful old shepherd dog and to a little group of donkeys. 



Timor (ill YELLOWHTOXE PARK 



13 1 



"Did von notice (be baby?' 5 be asked. We had noticed the 
cunning* little black one in such contrast to bis mouse colored 




Red Pass — Looking Toward River. 

mother with Mack markings. 1 took n picture of (be inter- 
esting group and made the old man happy when I promised to 
send him a print if the picture is a success. 

So far, we have camped in the same places as we did when 
we came up from Lander. The first nighl out from .Jackson 
Lake it began to rain just after the tents were pitched and 
we had to prepare dinner wearing our rain coats. 

In tbe Black Rock Valley we saw a band of elk up on tbc- 
mountain side, but dared not shoot them because the season 
does not open till Sunday. Hunters from all parts of Wyo- 
ming as well as from other states, are already driving into 
this valley and over to the Ram's Horn country to locate their 
game. 

Each man who has a license has the privilege of shooting 
two elk, two deer and one male mountain sheep, from Sep- 
tember 1 to November 30. The hunters are all anxious to 
capture the male elk because of the horns and the two valu- 
able teeth to be had from each head. 



188 



SIX WEEKS OX HOUSE HACK 



There are Tricks in hunting ;is there arc in other lines of 
business and pleasure. Sonic hunters carry a quantity of 
salt and get a cam]) established long before the season opens; 
they follow a deer or an elk trail till it leads to water, near 
which the salt is scattered for the purpose of alluring the 
game repeatedly to the spot until the first of September, and 
then the hunter is practically sure of his prize. Of course the 




"The wagon rolled from .side to side in the dangerous lord." 

hunters are not always successful in locating their game, and 
some seasons when the weather remains mild and the snow 
does not coyer the grass the elk and i\rvv remain way up in 
The mountains and the hunter is not aide to find their trail 
until late in the season. At other times the game seem rest- 
less and wander so that it is difficult to keep the trail. I 
certainly would enjoy the sport were it nol for taking the 
lives of the poor, pretty creatures. 

The snow bank, where we picked the forget-me-nots on 
our way up, has entirely disappeared, and the (lowers which 
were so brilliant along the road are beginning to show the 
effect of frost. They have not turned black nor have they 
drooped, but they look rusty. The greal beds of scarlet col- 



7 11 ROUGH V /•: L L WS TO \ E J *A RK 1 S9 

limbine look especially faded, and 1 have not seen any of the 
delicate while ones on our return trip. 

At the foot of the last steep hill, just before we reached 
our Brook's Lake camping ground, we came upon an over- 
turned wagon lying by the side of the road, and various cook- 
ing utensils and other articles useful in camp were scattered 
over the ground. "Someone has had a runaway down that 
steep pitch," said our Guide. 1 examined the rubbish near 
the wagon in the hope of getting some clue as to the identity 
of the victim of the accident and found a badge of the Wood- 
men of the World of Oklahoma City and a fragment of a let- 
ter which read. "Wynona, Oklahoma, July 11. 1912. Dear 
Ill-other:" Another fragment gave the information that the 
writer was on his way West. The name of the new home to 
which he was about to go was lost. We decided that the 
brother receiving the letter had decided that he would join 
his brother and was on his way overland when the accident 
took place. When we reached I he camp above the scene of the 
runaway we found a newly built corral and evidences that 
the mover was taking his cattle and family with him. I do 
wish we might have learned how serious the accident was, 
hut there is not a person within several miles of our camp; 
at least we have not seen or heard anyone since leaving' the 
Black Rock Valley. 

It was only four o'clock when we arrived in camp so I 
washed some towels and other things and am slowly drying 
them now by the camp fire. Xone of the men can build any- 
thing equal to the Handy Man's fires and we all miss him. 

The Brooklynite suggested that we stop over a clay to fish, 
but the Spinster made such a fuss that our Guide decided to 
move on toward home in the morning. I hope the day will 
be bright when we come to the beautiful Red Cross so I can 
get a good picture of it. I shall have to borrow 7 a roll of 
films, though, for I haven't any left. 

I must turn my washing, so good bye. 

Vi. 



190 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

Lander, Sept. 2, 1912; 
My Deai- Mother, and the Rest at Uncle Harold's : — 

Here I am in Lander once more and my jolly six weeks 
on horseback is ended. Those certainly were happy days and 
the scenery will stay in my memory for years. Even the 
Spinster admits, now that she is living in a hotel again, thai 
we were a very genial party and she would not have missed 
going to the Park on a camping trip for a great deal. "Jus; 
think," she said, "What novel experiences I'll have to tell 
my friends in Boston." 

Our trip from Brook's Lake was uneventful with one ex- 
ception and that was quite an exciting experience which took 
place not far from the hill where Professor's buggy met with 
its accident. Mr. Mack had planned to cross the Big Wind 
River to Spede Stagner's ranch in the hope of getting on t s 
for our hungry ponies, but when we reached the landing we 
found that the ferry could not be used because there was nol 
water sufficient to bring the ferry near enough to shore to 
permit them loading the wagon upon it. Our Guide said. 
"Well, if the water is that low we can ford the river; there 
is a fine place to camp on the other side." Professor re- 
marked that he had heard that the river is never safe for cross- 
ing at that point and advised our Guide not to make the at- 
tempt, but he replied that he would try it anyway and that 
the rest of us might wait until he was safely across. The 
Spinster had been riding in the wagou and remained where 
she was because she wanted to get a glass of milk at the 
ranch house. 

Our Guide had gone only a few rods when he reached deep 
water. The angry stream foamed and tossed and washed the 
water into the wagon box; the circus horse became excited 
and threatened to turn a back somersault, then he lunged for- 
ward suddenly and the axle ground on the to]) of a high rock. 
There the wagon hung, rolling from side to side with the ac- 
tion of the strong current and threatening to capsize at any 
moment. We who were watching from the bank held our 



Til li()H; II YELLOWSTONE PARK 191 

breath and one, at least, breathed a prayer for Divine help. 

The Spinster says she never saw such a cool, level headed 
man before as our Guide was while they were hanging in 
that perilous position. When she began to scream he said. 
calmly, "Miss Boyd, crawl hack to that pile of bedding and 
keep perfectly calm." When they struck the rock he re- 
marked, quite coolly, "Blame that fool horse." Then he sat 
still and waited till the excited animal became calm. Then 
he gave him a sharp cut with the whip and they were off 
the rock and once more battling with the strong current. 
They reached the other side in safety, but it is needless to 
tell that the rest of us were content to remain where we were, 
that is. all hut Professor and the Brooklynite, who insisted 
upon going over horseback to lead the team while our Guide 
recrossed the river. 

The Spinster would not risk her life again in the wagon, 
so tin 1 ranch owner brought her across in the suspended pas- 
senger ferry. The only way in which she could get from the 
ground to the ferry was to climb on some spikes driven into a 
pole. The spikes were so far apart that she made great work 
n\' the climb and afforded amusement for the entire party. 
We expected to see a very hysterical female when the Spin- 
ster was at last safely landed and were surprised to see her 
laughing. "Won't it he jolly to tell my friends about that 
narrow escape and the funny ferry ride?" she asked. "I do 
hope you girls took my picture." 

Our Guide said he felt well repaid for the wet ride because 
Spede sold him a sack of oats. 

We spent the night on the safe side of that mad river in 
a little g'-ove of trees down in a hollow and were xery glad 
to have shelter from the cold wind blowing along the stream 
which was appropriately named by the Indians. 

I forgot to tell you that I have tasted sage chicken at last ; 
a flock of them came within range of the Brooklynite's gun 
and we had quite a feast. I had expected them to taste very 



192 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

strongly of sage, but they tasted quite like the ordinary prai- 
rie chicken. 

Professor and Mrs. White will give our entire party a tan- 
well "Come and get it'' in the morning, and immediately al- 
ter the breakfast our three Eastern friends and Maud will 
board the train for their respective homes. I must write 
"Finis" to my diary letters now and I hope they have given 
you all some idea of the delightful vacation I have had and 
the beauties of nature which it was my good fortune to see. 
The enclosed chapter, which is marked "Mother" is for her 
eyes alone. I do not wish anyone else to read it, but she may 
tell Sis and Grandmother what it is about. 

Yours lovingly, 
Violet Chester. 

P. S. Have come to my room to prepare for bed and will 
add a line before I seal this letter. 

The Ex-dyspeptic called this evening. He said he had come 
to say good bye when he could have me all to myself, but he 
didn't get the opportunity after all, for the Brooklynite came 
in a little later and outstayed him. Vi. 



Dubois, Wyoming, Aug. 29, 1912. 
My Darling Mother: — 

Maud and the Spinster are both sound asleep. T purposely 
waited for them to get into the Land of Nod before beginning 
this personal chapter, which will be written for no eyes in all 
the world bat those of my own dear confidante. Can you 
guess the secret I am about to disclose. Mother mine? 

We arrived in Dubois shortly after four, so we ladies put 
on our good skirts and white waists and started up town 
We were about to enter tin 1 store when the Brooklynite joined 
us. After chatting a little while he said, "Ladies, while you 
are doing your shopping 1 want to show this nature lovei 
something up the street." Then he turned to me and asked 
"Will you spare me a few minutes?" 

I supposed he had discovered some bit of natural beauty 



Til Ron; II YELLOWSTONE PARK 



193 



which I would enjoy and started out with him. He took me 
ui» to where the quaint little log church stands and we stopped 
to look into the window, hut could not see the interior plain- 
ly. "Let's try the door," my companion suggested. We did 
so and found it unlocked. We entered and found it to he a 
vi'vy plain interior with crudely calcimined walls, and rough 
pine floor. We walked down the aisle together and stood for 
a moment in front of the little altar, each lost in his own 
thoughts. T was mentally comparing this unadorned little 
house of worship with the elegant city churches I had at- 
tended, and the though! came to me that everyone worship- 




"He took mi' to the qiiiiint little Iok church." 

ping here must be very sincere and devout and that the sim- 
ple little ceremonies performed in this log church must be 
very sacred because so completely lacking- in pomp and vain 
show. 

I was so lost in my comparisons that I did not notice that 
my companion was looking down at me, reading, as it were, 
my inmost thoughts. Then my companion spoke. What he 
said and the way he said it are very sacred to me, Mother 
dear. I can tell you because I have always told you all my 



194 SIX WEEKS ON HORSEBACK 

heart secrets, but no one else, not even dear Sis, may read 
what follows. 

My companion took both my hands in his and, looking down 
into my eyes, said fervently, ''Violet, darling, 1 love you." 
It seemed as if 1 had been standing all my life in a shadow 
and now was suddenly flooded with a bright light. I thrilled 
with a strange new feeling; for a moment, a moment only, 
I felt dazed; then the meaning of it all came to me in a Hash. 
This was love; the man was the one man I had ever loved. 
There was no doubt, no questioning in my mind this rime. 
I felt overcome by she 1 joy of it, closed my eyes and trembled 
violently. 

"Don't be afraid, little girl," said my lover, touchingly, as 
he released my hands, "it was cruel of me to take you by 
surprise in this abrupt manner, but I couldn't help it ; my 
heart was so full I simply had to speak." I conquered my- 
self then and opened my eyes and he reached for my hands 
again and said softly, "But you will try to love me, won't yon, 
little Violet of the Pines? Sometime in the future, when you 
have had time to know me better you will let me tell you 
again, will you not? I can wait, but O, the waiting will be 
so ;hard." 

Then I raised my eyes to his ami said, "But I do love you 
now, Orville." A look of such rapture came over his face 
and he took me in his arms and cried, "My darling, my wife !" 
Then he kissed my lips and after a moment he knelt down 
before the little altar and I knelt beside him while he breath- 
ed a little prayer that God would bless our union. And so. 
Mother darling, we were married, not in the eyes of the world, 
of course; that more formal ceremony will be performed 
publicly later, but we both felt when we rose from our knees 
that (rod had placed a more solemn seal upon our marriage 
then than can ever be placed by any earthly minister when he 
pronounces us husband ami wife. 

Vou are not hurt. Mother darling, that we did not first ask 
your consent ? It all came about so naturally, so unexpected- 



Til Hold II YELLOWSTONE PARK 195 

ly, that 1 had no time to prepare yon for what was soon to 
take place. How could I, when 1 was not prepared for it my- 
self? But (), Mother, I am so happy, so very happy. Orville 
fastened the pretty cameo to my blouse and asked me to wear 
it until he ran send the ring and then he wants me to give 
it to you. That cameo brooch is very precious to me, Mother, 
and it will be to yon also. 

Orville insisted thai I resign my position at once and go 
home to prepare for a Thanksgiving wedding, but 1 do not 
think that would lie fair to the school board and so 1 com- 
promised l>y promising to give the Board notice and will 
teach until they find a suitable substitute. 

I suppose it will not pay you now to come to Lander and 
so I'll just continue to board with Professor and Mrs. White 
until I leave. 

Orville has a beautiful plan for us. Mother, and will stop 
on his way to see you ami to tell you all about the handsome 
suburban home he has in view where you are to teach me 
how to manage the maids while Sis is at Vassal-. Wilt it 
not seem strange to see this very ordinary school teacher act- 
ing the part of mistress in an elegant home of her very own? 
I have to put my finger on the cameo to convince myself that 
it isn't all a dream and that it is really the most happy cli- 
max to the most delightful vacation I ever spent. 

Your most happy 

Violet. 

P. S. I asked < )rville why he calls me "Violet of the Pines," 
and he replied that it was while I was standing under the 
pines in our Sheridan ('amp, looking up into his eyes, that he 
first realized that he loved me and could never again he con- 
tent until I became his wife. 



AUG * MS 



